Gen II alternator output

charismaticmegafauna said:

And..., the proper tool (read: puller) is important to success... :huh:

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Well, I had to zap it for a split second. Should be fine, but now I can see that the puller I have is not going to work.

I may end up trying to make something. We'll see.

Glad I have my VFR as alternative transportation.

I had to make a flywheel puller.



It didn't work out as I planned.

ChrisW said:

I had to make a flywheel puller.It didn't work out as I planned.

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It's critical, when attempting to pull something off a "taper", that the puller is absolutely 'straight-on'. This may require securely attaching with equal-length spacers.

Trying to pull-off a taper when not straight-on just isn't effective.

Is there an inner thread in the rotor for screwing-in a puller to push the rotor off the crankshaft?

I'm pretty sure I was straight. The only metal I had was 5051 aluminum.

Obviously it was to soft.

Looks like I might be buying the special Yamaha tool. I just called my local shop. None of the mechanics have one. If they did they would have let me borrow it. They suggested a 3 jaw puller, but I don't think that'll work either.

There are universal tools out there but, I don't know.

This one worked. Scared the crap out of me when it finally popped.

So I finally got a chance to put a few miles on it. Works great, and no smoke!

I'm running 14.1V. When I start turning stuff on it drops to 13.4, but I can now run my grips, gerbing, first gear gloves and 4 50W HID's.

With all the heat running it still drops to 13V for a few seconds when I fire up the aux lights on high beam, but it comes right back up to 13.4.

Before, I could not run the grips at all, and I had to switch my jacket off when I hit the high beams until they warmed up.

So I'm getting at least another 100 watts out of it, and it really was just a bolt on. Pulling the flywheel was kind of a big deal since I didn't have the correct tools, but I wouldn't be afraid to do it again.

The whole thing cost me about $270. I'd highly recommend this vs. the electrosport stator. IMO you just can't beat the OEM parts when it comes to your charging system.

ChrisW said:

IMO you just can't beat the OEM parts when it comes to your charging system.

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Update:

I've added about 5K since the upgrade. It's working great.

I put the old Gen I R/R on my VFR after the Honda unit failed. Again! Pretty sad that I have to add an old Yamaha part w/ 90K on it to my Honda to get it right.

Anyway, that thing has never been so reliable, and has been getting the miles put to it thanks to my chiropractors handywork. :rockwoot:

Thanks for the update Chris. Glad to hear it's working out for you. I would love to do this mod but don't have the technical skills. Perhaps someday........

SkooterG said:

Thanks for the update Chris. Glad to hear it's working out for you. I would love to do this mod but don't have the technical skills. Perhaps someday........

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The hard part was rounding up the used parts and getting your hands on the right tools. The rest was pretty darn close to plug and play. A friend of mine is in the process of doing that now.

Chris - exactly what parts are needed? Just the stator, rotor, and R/R?

SkooterG said:

Chris - exactly what parts are needed? Just the stator, rotor, and R/R?

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Stator, rotor, alternator cover, R/R and heat/mounting shield. In a perfect world the R/R would be moved from the Gen I location high on the frame at the radiator cap to the Gen II location low at the back of the engine.

SkooterG said:

Chris - exactly what parts are needed? Just the stator, rotor, and R/R?

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Stator, Rotor, and Reg/Rec is all I had to change. I don't think I changed the cover. I'll have to check the box with the old parts to make sure but...

I think the R/R location on the Gen I is fine.

You didn't upsize the wiring? Stator leads to R/R? DC wiring between R/R and your source point for accessories?

Constant Mesh said:

You didn't upsize the wiring? Stator leads to R/R? DC wiring between R/R and your source point for accessories?

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The new/used stator came wired with the OEM R/R connector attached. The wires were the same guage, and length as the original from the Gen I.

I did not upgrade the wires from the R/R to the battery. I just plugged the old connector into the new R/R.

Accessories are wired off the battery, or a switched fuse panel wired off the battery. The new R/R should make sure the battery does not get overcharged.