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Thank you.......

Looks very nice......... Couple of questions: I assume you installed new bar-end inserts, what type did you use? I assume you had to drill out the mounting bolts for the ignition switch, any problems? Why did you go for the fat bars? why not go for 22mm bars? Thanks Don

I could never get on with the Cycle Hill Mounting Bar but I have no problem with the No Scuff Tyre Tool

Loads of info here acf 50 misting

I have had at least one puncture on every rear tyre (on the FJR). The worst was four puntures, all different and all fixed with sticky strings. On my most recent puncture I had great difficulty getting the string to hold. I noticed when I was putting a twist in that the ends of the string were...

One other point about digital displays. They are without doubt much easier to 'read' than analogue gauges and give the impression of being more accurate. However their accuracy is entirely down to whatever type of strain gauge is used to obtain the initial pressure to volts (or whatever), plus...

Haven't tried any of these but....... Digital displays are great for displaying static or slowly changing values. Trying to understand something that is rapidly varying is another thing entirely. Analogue displays or columns of liquid on the other hand.............

There was an interesting post on altering the final drive gearing by Mr BR some time ago here ...........

Over here these bulbs are normally designated as 'R-291 Capless' but are also called (by others) 'wedge type'.

Fred, I believe the best advice you have been given is to attend a (local) training school and actually get some 'hands on' experience. This will equip you to make the best decision. Relying on the web is never a great option...........

Yamaha have announced a new model (three-wheeled leaning multi wheeler LMW) based on the three cylinder MT-09. Initial specs here

"Anyway, I didn't see any "needle bearings" in there," Have a look at any of the on-line parts fiches, such as here item 6 is the needle bearing...........

Any signs of thread lock?

Before you get too rough and end up damaging the the anchor bushing, consider drilling out the hex head of the bolt. This will allow you to remove the existing bar-end and get a clear view of what is happening. You should be able to grip the bolt with some mole grips (or whatever you call...

Try typing something like greasing splines site:fjrforum.com lots of info and experience there...... If you are in a hurry then grease everything.

What it actually says is Output: 5 Volts DC, 2.1 Amp

The simple answer is no, it will not flush out the ABS unit IF you carry out a normal fluid change. What most people do is carry out a 'normal' fluid change, function the ABS system several times then perform another fluid change.

I like it...........

I would be very wary about using a blowtorch on anything with a painted finish. If you don't have another option apply heat (from the torch) from the inside of the housing only and keep the flame moving.

"Dropping the casing into boiling water " will only get you to 100 degrees C (212 F). We always used oil to heat bearings or casings, think cooking oil..........