Aux Fusebox location

[NorCal FJR]

I just a got new to me 2020 FJR ES. I am going to install an auxiliary fuse block like I had on my 08. The question I have is can I mount it under the front seat in the storage space, even though there is an electronic box there. I believe it is for the suspension or look for another location?

Thanks in advance to the FJR brain trust.

 

[rbentnail]

If it'll fit, why not?

 

[Ignacio]

As with all these myriad custom solutions, it depends on you doing the fitting, fiddling, coaxing and hopefully not forcing. Does the 2020 electronics box take up the whole space? Are the dimensions of your particular fuse block smaller than that space including the option to run wires? It's been nearly a decade, but I had an Eastern Beaver in my first 2014 ES in that space it and worked fine.

 

[RossKean]

Under the rider seat, if there is room with the ES stuff that is there. People have put them in the tail, behind the pillion but it generally means you have longer wire runs.

Another option from Eastern Beaver is one of their wiring harness kits with switched and unswitched fused circuits. Not as tidy as a Fuzeblock FZ1, Eastern Beaver PC8, Bluesea or Centech boxes but a good solution if you are lacking space to mount it. (I am looking at one of these for my F700GS)
(After the fuseblocks at the top of the page)

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/fuseboxes.html

 

[escapefjrtist]

Rich, take a look at the space inside the fairing rear of the battery. On my '15, I've got a couple electrical items stashed there. It's out of the way and a short run forwards. A three circuit Eastern Beaver solution just might fit.

~G

 

[BkerChuck]

I've mounted mine under the pillion seat. Main reason for this even beyond the space issue being that I only need to pull the pillion seat should I blow a fuse. No point in making it harder to access than necessary.

 

[papabird]

I installed my Fuzeblock FZ1 under the pillion seat. Lots of room back there still for other small items.

 

[VAcracker]

Under the rider seat, if there is room with the ES stuff that is there. People have put them in the tail, behind the pillion but it generally means you have longer wire runs.

Another option from Eastern Beaver is one of their wiring harness kits with switched and unswitched fused circuits. Not as tidy as a Fuzeblock FZ1, Eastern Beaver PC8, Bluesea or Centech boxes but a good solution if you are lacking space to mount it. (I am looking at one of these for my F700GS)
(After the fuseblocks at the top of the page)

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/fuseboxes.html

I have both fuzeblocks and Easter beaver. Both mounted under pillion seat.

After working with the Eastern Beaver I will likely replace the fuseblocks on the wife’s FJR and move it to another bike. The wiring harness of the EB alone is worth the switch. They also have a nice battery jumper lead I’ve installed and can, if needed jump the battery without any disassembling of panels.

 

[RossKean]

A three circuit Eastern Beaver solution just might fit.

I have spent some time looking at these options because of insufficient space on my F700GS for a fuseblock. (Not to mention the difficulty in accessing the battery.) There are some significant differences between the 3-circuit and 4-circuit versions of this harness. Both offer one unswitched 15 Amp circuit and two or three switched circuits and both state a 35 Amp maximum. Each circuit is separately fused. The 3-circuit solution has a 40 Amp relay and each of the circuits can run up to 15 Amps total. The 4-circuit solution only has a 20 Amp relay and each of the switched circuits is a max of 12 Amps (Although 20A max for all three, based upon the relay). I would go for the 3-circuit, unless you had to power more devices. (Note: You could always power two lower current devices off one outlet as long as they didn't total more than 15 Amps)

The ever-popular FZ-1 Fuzeblock offers six independently fused circuits, any of which may be switched or unswitched. The maximum per circuit is just 10 Amps and total is 30 Amps. (I have one of these on my FJR and one circuit is not quite enough to power my auxiliary LED. Also, I have no need for six independent power outlets. Still, a well-made and versatile device.)

Worth considering is the "Powerlink" to connect to the battery if you are doing the Eastern Beaver harness.
https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Powerlink/powerlink.htmlThis provides a high power lead which can connect to jumper cables (that they sell) as well as to the harness.

Anyway, EB provides quite a few options for wiring harnesses at fair prices. Definitely worth considering if space is at a premium.

 

[RossKean]

I have both fuzeblox and Easter beaver. Both mounted under pillion seat.

The Eastern Beaver PC-8 is what you have? I agree that it is well built. I was proposing the wiring harnesses as an alternative as opposed to the block - especially if space is at a premium..
I see you also have the Powerlink System. I think I'll be doing that on my BMW this spring with the 3-circuit EB harness.

 

[VAcracker]

I have the

The Eastern Beaver PC-8 is what you have? I agree that it is well built. I was proposing the wiring harnesses as an alternative as opposed to the block - especially if space is at a premium..
I see you also have the Powerlink System. I think I'll be doing that on my BMW this spring with the 3-circuit EB harness.

I have the newer PC8R and the FJR wire harness. Zero regrets so far. The power link is seperate.

Old school tip that helped was putting a small piece of clear tube/hose under the battery terminal nut.

Wish I took pics while it was all apart but zero plans to disassemble until the battery dies or I reflush brake fluid and cycle the ABS into.

 

[wisdomrider1]

I recently installed the EB PC8 Powerlink System under the pillion of my 2015 and ran the harness up and under the gas tank. I like to use the space under the main saddle for storing tools and small compressor. It's easy to get to the PC8 should you need to change a fuse or add an additional component. Also, easy access if you plan to use the Powerlink Jumper leads. With that said, I see no reason why you can't install under the main saddle if you have the room and it doesn't interfere with the existing electronic box.

 

[soderstromk]

For those using the EB Powerlink system. Do you have recommendations about battery and jumper lead lengths? There is an option to have negative or positive battery leads 6" longer than the other. Is this something that should be considered?

 

[RossKean]

For those using the EB Powerlink system. Do you have recommendations about battery and jumper lead lengths? There is an option to have negative or positive battery leads 6" longer than the other. Is this something that should be considered?

I would have a look at where you want to put the Powerlink connector for accessibility to hook up jumpers and to connect to a PC-8 or other wiring harness. Probably worth taking a little time and doing a mockup using some semi-rigid wire or even string to get the lengths that work for your planned installation. If I was going back straight from the battery down the right hand side of the bike to the area under the rider seat, I would probably choose one with the positive longer than the negative... (but would still do a mock-up to be sure).

 

[BkerChuck]

I met a rider at one of the first Void Rallies I rode in who had done something like this to his FJR in case of needing a jump start.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Char...8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

He drilled 2 holes in that triangular panel beneath the radiator and mounted the 2 posts and left the caps on them so that if he needed a jump nothing more than the protective caps had to come off. Wired right up to the battery.

 

[escapefjrtist]

That's ^^^^ a good idea for a purpose built rally machine.

~G

 

[VAcracker]

For those using the EB Powerlink system. Do you have recommendations about battery and jumper lead lengths? There is an option to have negative or positive battery leads 6" longer than the other. Is this something that should be considered?

I ordered the +6” length lead as suggested by EB and it’s helpful

My recommendation on overall length for jumper leads is shorter is better for this purpose provided they are long enough to be usefully accessible. I think both leads combined in my setup is only 3-4 feet.

 

[NorCal FJR]

Thanks to everyone for the information. I am going to spend some time this weekend with a mock up and see where it fit best for my use.

I have gone back and forth between the PC8 and the Fuzeblock. The PC8 seems very nice, but the Fuzeblock wiring looks easier to route in my opinion.

 

[VAcracker]

Thanks to everyone for the information. I am going to spend some time this weekend with a mock up and see where it fit best for my use.

I have gone back and forth between the PC8 and the Fuzeblock. The PC8 seems very nice, but the Fuzeblock wiring looks easier to route in my opinion.

Wire routing should/could be the same for either. And basically is for both my fuseblocks and PC8.

In fairness my fuseblocks was second hand as it came with the bike. For me the harness is janky compared to the EB. As soon as I saw the EB harness is was immediately impressed. I will say it’s super heavy duty and the connections are not small but I had 0 voltage drop when testing. Forgot resistance but think it was at or near 0 drop from testing meter leads together.

Both are good units but I elected the PC8R as it provides 40 instead of 30 total amps. The wife loves her heated gear!