Auxiliary light wiring question

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drmjf86

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I'm planning of adding some auxiliary lights and like the idea of wiring them independent of other lights and being able to have them on in any combination w/ my low/high beams using a simple on/off SPST rocker switch in the empty left handlebar flash-to-pass button position. I've lost my headlight and driving lights simultaneously in the past on another bike and riding home at night by emergency flashers was a bit nerve wracking. Driving home using the driving lights alone would have been far easier and safer. The previous owner has installed a fuse panel in the tail of my '07 A which I presume is switched to the key being on and I would use this to power the auxiliary lights. But, if possible, I would like to wire the auxiliary lights in such a way that if I have left the auxiliary light switch in the "on" position that they dim when I fire the starter as well. I'll be honest w/ you I don't even know if the headlights dim w/ the starter being fired but, if they do, it would seem possible to me to wire the auxiliary lights to do the same. Could anyone provide me w/ a description/schematic of how to accomplish this, including necessary relays/location. Thanks, Mike

 
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let me just say that my Halogen aux or fork mounted running lights are wired to the battery directly with a relay that the coil that activates the relay is wired to the headlight relay under the dash. That way, just like the headlights, they only come on once the engine is running. The relay also has an on/off switch to allow them to be turned off once the engine is running.

There are plenty of threads describing where and what color the wire coming off the headlight relay is.

Just use a google search: headlight relay site:fjrforum.com

pattern is google search: ????????? site:fjrforum.com

let's ride safe and be careful out there,

Mike in Nawlins'

 
I added a pair of Hella FF50's mounted up on a set Garauld's brackets.

I wanted mine to function the same as you have described - independant of the high / low beam. Many guys set theirs up to only fire with the high beam - keep in mind your local ordinances, though. Some locales require aux lights to be off when the high beam is activated.

Since I'm an electrical idiot, I spent some time on the phone with forum member Fairlaner and, since he had just slapped a set of FF50's on his FJR, his experience was fresh in his mind.

With the exception of the switch, I used the hardware provided with the FF50's. I mounted the relay over on one of the screws by the glovebox. The rats nest of wires are tucked up under the A & B panels. Main power is coming from the battery via 12 guage wires. I have mine switched (so the lights do NOT come on with the ignition off) via a Fuzeblock under the passenger seat.

When I get home tonight, I can send you more details on the wiring - what relay post is wired to what, etc...

 
Like Patriot implied, the headlights do not dim when you hit the starter, they are not on at all until the engine is running. You want the same behavior with aux. lights.

I understand your desire to be able to use the aux. lights even when your main lights are not working, but I don't think you can avoid having a single point of failure somewhere. It depends on exactly what failed to cause the low and high beams to quit all at the same time.

Aux. lights draw quite a bit of power and should be powered directly from the battery, with an in-line fuse. If you run wires back to the fuse block then you need to make sure the power to the fuse block can carry the extra load. If the fuse block is 'switched power', meaning that it is hot only when the engine is running, then it would be a good place to get power that then goes through the rocker switch and then to the relay that controls the aux. lights.

So you really have two circuits. One circuit that goes from the battery, to the relay, where the relay serves as a switch, then from the relay to the lights and back to the ground of the battery.

The second circuit uses 'switched power' from the fuse block to the rocker switch, then from the other terminal on the switch to the terminal on the relay that energizes it, then back to ground again.

 
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I have my MotoLights connected via relay to the battery. I use a SPDT switch on the console. One lead of the switch goes to the relay trigger, one lead to the headlight relay, and one lead to the 12V accessory lead under the left console. This allows me to have the aux lights: 1) on ONLY when the headlights are on, 2) manual overide to be on all the time, but ONLY with the key in the on position (e.g. no headlights), and 3) off, which is good during training sessions when you are starting the bike a lot and, perhaps, not allowing the battery to charge up.

Edit: forgot to add there is a fuse between the battery and MotorLights relay.

Rich

 
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I have my MotoLights connected via relay to the battery. I use a SPDT switch on the console. One lead of the switch goes to the relay trigger, one lead to the headlight relay, and one lead to the 12V accessory lead under the left console. This allows me to have the aux lights: 1) on ONLY when the headlights are on, 2) manual overide to be on all the time, but ONLY with the key in the on position (e.g. no headlights), and 3) off, which is good during training sessions when you are starting the bike a lot and, perhaps, not allowing the battery to charge up.
Edit: forgot to add there is a fuse between the battery and MotorLights relay.

Rich
yep, +1

 
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