BJ question

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specialk

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Do you guys remove the lower right body panel before removing the coolant drain bolt to prevent coolant from splashing all over the side panel?

If so, can you remove JUST the lower right panel without removing the upper right panel (so I don't have to remove the whole front end of the bike)?

 
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The lower side panels are actually the first body pieces to come off when removing bodywork. The upper side panels are the last and are removed still attached to the nose cowl. Basically, if you have to remove an upper side piece, you remove the lowers, the inner dash panels, the windshield, then the nose cowl, with the uppers still attached. There are bolts for the uppers that you CANNOT get to while they're on the bike.

Click here for kaitsdad's thread on GenII bodywork that's not real hard to find. I have a similar one here for GenI, if any of those owners come across this with a similar question.

 
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For info on BJ's you will have to refer to our resident experts,,,,, Bustanut and/ or Odot.....

Unless somebody else has expertise in this area..... :dribble:

 
For info on BJ's you will have to refer to our resident experts,,,,, Bustanut and/ or Odot.....Unless somebody else has expertise in this area..... :dribble:
I believe you have spent some time with those fine gentlemen... :dribble:
 
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Nope, Wasn't me.... I was just standin there......Didn't see nothin....

Don't tell Sheila, or Bust will be in trouble..........again..

 
thanks for the help wfooshee.

I got all the necessary screws/fasteners out. one problem is that the frame slider on the bike is anchored to the frame through one of the vents in the lower fairing. Can I remove the large allen head that anchors the frame slider to the frame without messing anything up? I'm scared because I thought these are anchored to the engine somehow and I want to make sure that if I take it out, it can go back in.

If it matters, I am only trying to remove the right lower cowling and not the left.

 
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QUOTE (specialk @ Mar 22 2010, 04:38 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

thanks for the help wfooshee.

I got all the necessary screws/fasteners out. one problem is that the frame slider on the bike is anchored to the frame through one of the vents in the lower fairing. Can I remove the large allen head that anchors the frame slider to the frame without messing anything up? I'm scared because I thought these are anchored to the engine somehow and I want to make sure that if I take it out, it can go back in.

If it matters, I am only trying to remove the right lower cowling and not the left.

If your sliders are like mine, you can unscrew just the rubber, The fairing will slide over the aluminium part, photo (right side):

(click on image for larger view)



If it's of any help, I've a pictorial fairing removal here as part of a mirror change, but it might help you.

 
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thanks for the help wfooshee.
I got all the necessary screws/fasteners out. one problem is that the frame slider on the bike is anchored to the frame through one of the vents in the lower fairing. Can I remove the large allen head that anchors the frame slider to the frame without messing anything up? I'm scared because I thought these are anchored to the engine somehow and I want to make sure that if I take it out, it can go back in.

If it matters, I am only trying to remove the right lower cowling and not the left.
If your sliders are like mine, you can unscrew just the rubber, The fairing will slide over the aluminium part, photo (right side):

[SIZE=8pt](click on image for larger view)[/SIZE]



If it's of any help, I've a pictorial fairing removal here as part of a mirror change, but it might help you.

Thanks so much for the great pics. Unfortunately, mine is not like yours...it is only one piece and I have to remove the whole thing. If I take both frame sliders off (with their long bolts) the engine won't fall over will it? (please excuse my ignorance since I never put these on).

 
thanks for the help wfooshee.
I got all the necessary screws/fasteners out. one problem is that the frame slider on the bike is anchored to the frame through one of the vents in the lower fairing. Can I remove the large allen head that anchors the frame slider to the frame without messing anything up? I'm scared because I thought these are anchored to the engine somehow and I want to make sure that if I take it out, it can go back in.

If it matters, I am only trying to remove the right lower cowling and not the left.
If your sliders are like mine, you can unscrew just the rubber, The fairing will slide over the aluminium part, photo (right side):

[SIZE=8pt](click on image for larger view)[/SIZE]



If it's of any help, I've a pictorial fairing removal here as part of a mirror change, but it might help you.

Thanks so much for the great pics. Unfortunately, mine is not like yours...it is only one piece and I have to remove the whole thing. If I take both frame sliders off (with their long bolts) the engine won't fall over will it? (please excuse my ignorance since I never put these on).
There are way more than just those two engine mount bolts, but you are correct, the slider bolts are engine bolts. The engine isn't going anywhere.

 
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thanks for the help wfooshee.
I got all the necessary screws/fasteners out. one problem is that the frame slider on the bike is anchored to the frame through one of the vents in the lower fairing. Can I remove the large allen head that anchors the frame slider to the frame without messing anything up? I'm scared because I thought these are anchored to the engine somehow and I want to make sure that if I take it out, it can go back in.

If it matters, I am only trying to remove the right lower cowling and not the left.
If your sliders are like mine, you can unscrew just the rubber, The fairing will slide over the aluminium part, photo (right side):

[SIZE=8pt](click on image for larger view)[/SIZE]



If it's of any help, I've a pictorial fairing removal here as part of a mirror change, but it might help you.

Thanks so much for the great pics. Unfortunately, mine is not like yours...it is only one piece and I have to remove the whole thing. If I take both frame sliders off (with their long bolts) the engine won't fall over will it? (please excuse my ignorance since I never put these on).
There are way more than just those two engine mount bolts, but you are correct, the slider bolts are engine bolts. The engine isn't going anywhere.
Two last questions...

1) is there an order to replacing the frame sliders (ie left before right or vice versa or doesn't matter)?

2) torque spec?

 
thanks for the help wfooshee.
I got all the necessary screws/fasteners out. one problem is that the frame slider on the bike is anchored to the frame through one of the vents in the lower fairing. Can I remove the large allen head that anchors the frame slider to the frame without messing anything up? I'm scared because I thought these are anchored to the engine somehow and I want to make sure that if I take it out, it can go back in.

If it matters, I am only trying to remove the right lower cowling and not the left.
If your sliders are like mine, you can unscrew just the rubber, The fairing will slide over the aluminium part, photo (right side):

[SIZE=8pt](click on image for larger view)[/SIZE]



If it's of any help, I've a pictorial fairing removal here as part of a mirror change, but it might help you.


Thanks so much for the great pics. Unfortunately, mine is not like yours...it is only one piece and I have to remove the whole thing. If I take both frame sliders off (with their long bolts) the engine won't fall over will it? (please excuse my ignorance since I never put these on).
There are way more than just those two engine mount bolts, but you are correct, the slider bolts are engine bolts. The engine isn't going anywhere.
Two last questions...

1) is there an order to replacing the frame sliders (ie left before right or vice versa or doesn't matter)?

2) torque spec?
No particular order for removal/replacement.

If they are R & G sliders (sounds like they are), torque is 36.5 ft.lbs (50 Nm).. Do NOT use locktite or any lubricant when replacing. Is a dry thread install.

 
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No particular order for removal/replacement.If they are R & G sliders (sounds like they are), torque is 36.5 ft.lbs (50 Nm).. Do NOT use locktite or any lubricant when replacing. Is a dry thread install.
Sorry to be a killjoy, rogdeb, but there IS a tightening sequence for frame sliders that use motor-mount bolts.

Torque down the left side FIRST, then the right side. Same procedure is followed for engine removal/replacement. Left first, then right.

 
No particular order for removal/replacement.If they are R & G sliders (sounds like they are), torque is 36.5 ft.lbs (50 Nm).. Do NOT use locktite or any lubricant when replacing. Is a dry thread install.
Sorry to be a killjoy, rogdeb, but there IS a tightening sequence for frame sliders that use motor-mount bolts.

Torque down the left side FIRST, then the right side. Same procedure is followed for engine removal/replacement. Left first, then right.
I thought I read something about that on here. thanks very much for the information. Would you happen to know what torque values?

 
The 35 given earlier is correct for the torque.

There's a really cool list of such things we like to call the bin-o-facts. There one for GenI bikes and one for GenII bikes. The engine bolt torques are there in the genII, and which bolts are affected by sliders are specifically pointed out.

Not that I'm a search nazi, or have-a-look-at-the-stuff-you-were-pointed-to-when-you-registered kind of guy. :)

It's just that that's why those posts are there, and that's why they're mentioned in the section where new users register for the board.

 
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Damn! I hate it when I'm on the wrong forum.

Dude don't lead off with those two letters in that order :blink:

'tain't good fer a fellas heart ya know?

[SIZE=8pt]Gotta admit, I never heard it referred to as "coolant"[/SIZE]

:jester:

 
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The 35 given earlier is correct for the torque.
There's a really cool list of such things we like to call the bin-o-facts. There one for GenI bikes and one for GenII bikes. The engine bolt torques are there in the genII, and which bolts are affected by sliders are specifically pointed out.

Not that I'm a search nazi, or have-a-look-at-the-stuff-you-were-pointed-to-when-you-registered kind of guy. :)

It's just that that's why those posts are there, and that's why they're mentioned in the section where new users register for the board.

wfooshee...sorry bout that. I did actually look at the bin o facts earlier on but didn't even think to reference it for this. Thanks for the reminder.

 
No particular order for removal/replacement.If they are R & G sliders (sounds like they are), torque is 36.5 ft.lbs (50 Nm).. Do NOT use locktite or any lubricant when replacing. Is a dry thread install.
Sorry to be a killjoy, rogdeb, but there IS a tightening sequence for frame sliders that use motor-mount bolts.

Torque down the left side FIRST, then the right side. Same procedure is followed for engine removal/replacement. Left first, then right.
I stand corrected Howie, and I knew that :eek: written by myself on last page of handbook.

Sorry SpecialK

 
guys, thanks to all the help here. I ended up doing this myself and know how to from now on!

learned a lot about the bike and how everything fits together. I even learned why the CA guys hate the charcoal canister...geez

again, thanks so much for the help.

 
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