Confirming my Valve Lash Check Research

[hppants]

For those of you that have done your own Valve Lash clearence check, is this link considered accurate?

https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/valveadj.html

Also, please confirm the clearence specifications ('05, gen 1):

Intake - 0.15mm - 0.22 mm (0.006" - 0.008")

Exhaust - 0.18mm - 0.25 mm (0.007" - 0.010")

I've got the shims, gaskets, and the beer. Dad always said: "Son, if your scared, say your scared."

Well, I'm scared, but it ain't gonna happen just looking at it. So Friday, we dance.

 

[kamal]

Just finished doing mine. I got lucky, all in spec.

I followed that link too, it's pretty good.

Pay special attention to cleaning out where the coolant pipe attaches to the cover or shit WILL fall into the head when you remove the cam cover.

I bought new coolant o-rings, just in case, but could have re-used the old ones. The gasket came off clean attached to the cover, I re-fitted it without sealant - no leaks.

clearance specs are correct.

Enjoy the adventure.

Al.

 

[yamafitter]

The valve clearances are the same for both the Gen 1 & Gen II
I put together a spreadsheet a while back that is explained in this post along with the download for the speadsheet that will help in figuring out shim sizes if required.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Reference the valve check threads, take a deep breath and you'll be fine. Once you reach the valve cover, make sure you push the wiring / harness forward to give yourself room for cover removal. I always use new o-rings on the water tubes, not worth the risk of a leak for a couple bucks.

Good luck!

--G

 

[SkooterG]

I bought new coolant o-rings, just in case, but could have re-used the old ones.

NO! You could not have used the old ones. They deform. Trust me. ALWAYS install new O-rings. There have been a couple of peeps around here who have learned that lesson the hard way.

Disassembled mine and cleaned shit on Friday. Gen I is more of a PITA than Gen II. Hope to get to the actual checking tomorrow. Not looking forward to re-assembly. With all the hoses and shit in the way, I have no idea how I am going to get that valve cover back on without pinching the gasket somewhere. I think I am going to need another set of hands.

 

[BikerGeek99]

ALWAYS install new O-rings.

Gotta agree with Skootey here. Based on what I saw at Tech Days, you want new o-rings. And be gentle with that water pipe, right, Bill?

 

[MCRIDER007]

Disassembled mine and cleaned shit on Friday. Gen I is more of a PITA than Gen II. Hope to get to the actual checking tomorrow. Not looking forward to re-assembly. With all the hoses and shit in the way, I have no idea how I am going to get that valve cover back on without pinching the gasket somewhere. I think I am going to need another set of hands.

An extra set of hands is always handy but bungie cords are a good substitute. The valve cover is much easier to remove and install on a GEN2.

 

[kamal]

I bought new coolant o-rings, just in case, but could have re-used the old ones.

NO! You could not have used the old ones. They deform. Trust me. ALWAYS install new O-rings. There have been a couple of peeps around here who have learned that lesson the hard way.

Disassembled mine and cleaned shit on Friday. Gen I is more of a PITA than Gen II. Hope to get to the actual checking tomorrow. Not looking forward to re-assembly. With all the hoses and shit in the way, I have no idea how I am going to get that valve cover back on without pinching the gasket somewhere. I think I am going to need another set of hands.

OK, I stand corrected on the o-rings. Thanks for clarifying that.

Re-installing the cover was a lot easier than I expected, especially with the new blanking plates. With the cover sitting on the head, I found I could see all around it with a bright flashlight to check for pinching and to make sure the D-shaped bits weren't sticking in or out, prior to tightening. I love my new motorcycle lift, don't know how I lived without it.

Al.

 

[hppants]

Thank you for the suggestions and words of encouragement. I've purchased the coolant pipe 0-rings, a new side cover gasket, and a water pump drain bolt crush washer. I've got 4 quarts of Honda coolant and a fresh set of NGK plugs. I am planning to re-use the cam cover rubber gasket, but I have black RTV if needed.

Finially I've got a complete set of shims. If anyone needs a shim and can wait 2-5 days for Snail Mail, I'll gladly share.

I've done a decent amount of wrenching in my day. I'm sure this will go fine. It's just that this is my favorite toy and if I break it, I won't have anyone to play with.

Cheers.

 

[kamal]

It's just that this is my favorite toy and if I break it, I won't have anyone to play with.Cheers.

Don't worry, you could then justify buying a Gen3. - they're all the rage right now.

Al.

 

[hppants]

Well, I'm doing it. Not done yet, though. I've got it torn down, and I've ran thought each valve twice with my SAE feeler gages - which is why it's not finished. My gages have a 0.006", 0.008", 0.010", etc. So I'm not entirely sure what the measurement it. This is multiplied by my inexperience and uncertainty.

On the intake side, I think I'm good. All 8 valves measure a loose 0.006", but the 0.008" gage won't go in.

The exhaust on the other hand is concerning. 2-2, 3-2, and 4-2 all will not allow the 0.008" gage to go. But they do measure a loose 0.006". So I think I'm still OK.

Tomorrow, a friend with a lot more experience in adjusting shim and bucket motorcycle engine valves is coming over. He's bringing his "go or no go" feeler gages, which I hope will give me the conclusion.

I've been taking everything extremely slow, taking pictures, placing things on my work bench is "assembled" arrangement, etc. I don't want to miss 1 step. I'm having fun and I'm quite certain I'll be able to finish it up tomorrow.

I'm not scared anymore, Dad....

 

[escapefjrtist]

'pants -- Sounds like you're good on the intakes, forget them for another 26,000 miles. You really need a .007" feeler gauge to see where the exhausts are. If it's a very loose .006" then odds are in your favor, but nevertheless you need the measurement reference for the next check.

On the FJRs we've done, intakes tend to run at the minimum clearance and exhausts run towards the maximum. Not a scientific sampling by any means, just experience over the couple dozen checked.

--G

 

[SkooterG]

Get yourself a decent set of feeler gauges. I really like the metric ones. Finer detail in measuring the clearances, and then easy math when swapping out shims. My valve check is not going as well as yours. A comedy of errors and some scary measurements for me. But I am learning a LOT! You can read all about it in a future thread.

 

[hppants]

Waiting for my buddy to show this morning. It's about 39 outside now, and I don't have any heat in my shop, so IMO, there's no big rush.

Once I see what kind of feeler gages he brings, I plan to purchase a better set. But I also want to learn more about the art of interpreting the measurement.

So... while I wait, I'm trying to understand the mechanical theory of this. I've taught myself the purpose of having the lash in the valve train. What I can't understand is:

1. Why does the lash measurement change over time and mileage? Is it because the valve spring fatigues and may become "unsprung" or collapse?

Also, I've learned how hydraulic lifters work - ingenious. So my next question is:

2. Why don't all motorcycles have hydraulic, self-adjusting lifters?

Couple of unrelated questions:

1. Who uses a dab of sealant on the 1/2 moons in the cam cover, and if so, which product do you use?

2. I don't have any "parker lube" for the coolant pipe as instructed in the how-to thread. I'm planning to put a film of something on the o-rings. Maybe dishwashing soap? What do you use?

3. My coolant pipe had a bit of surface rust on it at both locations where it meets the cam cover. I thought about wire brushing it and hitting it with a bit of high-temp rustoleum exhaust paint (which I happen to have in my shop). Thoughts?

 

[Chiefblueman]

HP, valve lash measurement changes due to wear or recession of the valve seat in the head and the wear to the valve itself. The spring is used to return the valve to the seat.

Most motorcycle engines see pretty high rpm with the exception of some well known V twins. Hydraulic lifters are relatively heavy compared to a shim and bucket tappet. At high rpm a heavier valve train requires higher spring rates to keep the valve train under control, or following the cam profile. Also, the hydraulic lifter is more costly to manufacture.

I recently removed the coolant pipe from the bike, there was corrosion on the outside rising to about an inch or so above the O-rings. I used a mil spec zinc rich self galvanizing paint after gentle wire brushing. Used a little clear liquid hand soap to lube the O-rings. Worked fine, no leaks.

Good luck with the valve check, I haven't done one yet, I'm at 19k mi but I pay close attention to these threads. Thanks for posting about it.

 

[radiummadman]

Hey Skooter and or others, could you please list the part #'s of the O-rings I will need. I have seen them listed

somewhere by my 2 brain cells can't recall where. Thanks in advance

I bought new coolant o-rings, just in case, but could have re-used the old ones.

NO! You could not have used the old ones. They deform. Trust me. ALWAYS install new O-rings. There have been a couple of peeps around here who have learned that lesson the hard way.

Disassembled mine and cleaned shit on Friday. Gen I is more of a PITA than Gen II. Hope to get to the actual checking tomorrow. Not looking forward to re-assembly. With all the hoses and shit in the way, I have no idea how I am going to get that valve cover back on without pinching the gasket somewhere. I think I am going to need another set of hands.

 

[SkooterG]

Chief answered your valve/seat wear question. Most seem to recommend silicon grease to lube the O-rings. I used 0000 steel wool to clean up the coolant pipe mating surfaces. It's normal to see corrosion there.

O-rings:

For Gen I you need 2 each of 93210-18417-00 (small O-ring) and 1 each of 93210-23787-00 (large O-ring).

For Gen II you just need 2 of the smaller one's, or the first one I listed.

 

[radiummadman]

That is why I come here, good answers from trusted people, NOT tho hear the latest about breeding goats/sheep

or screwing underage children in Mexico.

Chief answered your valve/seat wear question. Most seem to recommend silicon grease to lube the O-rings. I used 0000 steel wool to clean up the coolant pipe mating surfaces. It's normal to see corrosion there.
O-rings:

For Gen I you need 2 each of 93210-18417-00 (small O-ring) and 1 each of 93210-23787-00 (large O-ring).

For Gen II you just need 2 of the smaller one's, or the first one I listed.

 

[Chiefblueman]

Hey Radiummadman, I keep this link to FJR fiche at Partshark https://www.partshark.com/fiche_select2.asp?category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=2005&fveh=18060&x=83&y=28

Comes in pretty handy sometimes for pn's and seeing how stuff goes together.