FJR Headlight problem possibly dimmer relay

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Its running good. Nil issues. Hopefully it stays that way. The fairing seems to hold dirt and moisture next to wires that sit near.
I remember when all this trouble started i told my mechanic that moisture could be the problem. He said that yamaha used wiring that was used in there jet skis so moisture is not usually an issue.

I wonder how the police fjr's go with this issue, i know they use them in nsw police force. Not so much down here in Victoria.
All the cop bikes I've worked on have had the recall done.

I don't know if the police garage, or the dealers who service them, treat the rest of them ???

 
Just to let you know the bikes lights were flickering on and off again tonight. I guess the s7 is on its way out.

 
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Lights flickering on and off doesn't sound especially like a "spider" issue. That is usually accompanied by other electrical oddities like illuminated signal light indicators, hi beam indicator, glove box fail, windshield etc. (Don't know specific symptoms for S7 issues) I would check headlight relays first.

 
Yes as the headlight went out the blinker lights and highbeam lights illuminated. Same things as last time when the s6 failed.

 
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I think its probably in the process of melting the s7. Last time i checked them after the s6 failure the s7 was the only one to show corrosion.

 
Then it's a grounding issue somewhere. Possibly S7 or possibly a non-spider connector. Once they start, you may be able to delay it but eventually it is going to fail. I had the same with my S6 a number of years ago. Slight corrosion and heat-tarnishing. Cleanup and grease bought me only a couple of weeks.

For a non-spider possibility, have a look at https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/158418-itsy-bitsy-spider/?hl=itsy

The above issue has come up for a few people but check the S7 first since you already dealt with S6. You might want to make sure your previous solder job on S6 is intact.

 
I sprayed out the 2 non spider connectors near the s6. The s6 feels ok by the way. So i dont think the solder has come loose. The s7 was allready showing signs of corrosion and looks burnt a little. It doesn't look any worse than last time though. It gives me an excuse to lubricate the windshield as that is making loud noises.

 
...6, 5, 4, 3...

I hope you have nailed it but fear that it will return eventually. At least you know what to look for.

Good luck.

 
Just to let everyone know i didn't attempt surgery again instead i cleaned out that spider and put carbon grease. Everything working well with that grease.
Hi, but I really do think that because you had a spider "nibble" of a bite, you should really address it.

Good on ya with the carbon grease !!!

Send me a private message and I'll explain everything in detail.

But for me it takes about 3 hours to solder in a bypass neutral shunt, take the loading off the circuit.

It's a very easy job to do on a rainy afternoon.

I tong tested, measured, the current on the bypass circuit and was amazed how much current it took away from the original circuit. Don't quote me but there ws like 14 amps of neutral current being bypass, I can find my original measurements.

And there was something like 50 +, 54 ??? amps from the S4 back to the battery with most bike's functions on.

Through those pissy small wires, lol lol. before the bypass.

A LOT depends of the size of the wire you use !!!!

All you need is a soldering iron, solder, some wire and some insulation tape. and your normal bike tools.

It'd NOT as good as Brodies wiring harness that he doesn't make any more but very easy to do.

You only do the 6 12 volt neutral connectors, the other 2, S2 and 5 I think ???? are 5 Volt, only carbon grease them.

PLEASE do NOT do all 8 spiders, as the 5 volt spider neutrals have their power supplied by the ECU.

Get back to me if you are interested.

Cheers

 
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