General consensus - Should I rebuild calipers on 2013 A at 24k miles?

[kdclaiborne]

As previously posted, I acquired a clean 2013 FJR A back in early January. Generally well maintained: oil/filter/drive changed, coolant/brake/clutch fluids recently flushed, recent fork seals and oil. I just completed the dreaded PITA rear suspension relay arm inspection and lube (+ swing arm lube while off). Brake pads look good and rear caliper piston moves easily, but I noticed the inside of the piston starting to rust a bit (if I rebuilt calipers, I'd likely soak piston inside with Evapo-Rust which I've used before along with phosphoric acid). I really like the idea of going through everything and getting caught up on all scheduled/recommended maintenance. What do the experts here think about the need for brake caliper rebuild on a 11 year old FJR with 24k miles? All Balls? I don't find much else. I dread the procedure I've read about doing the proper procedure for ABS activate/bleed, but I'm confident I can do it.

 

[feejerbkb]

I'd be shocked if the caliper needed rebuilding. Maybe needed if the old fluid was really bad or if there was fluid weeping around the seals.

Cycling the ABS system is simple; you can do it for sure. If you are brave, find a gravel road and dynamite the brakes, you'll know quickly if the system is working or not.

 

[RossKean]

As previously posted, I acquired a clean 2013 FJR A back in early January. Generally well maintained: oil/filter/drive changed, coolant/brake/clutch fluids recently flushed, recent fork seals and oil. I just completed the dreaded PITA rear suspension relay arm inspection and lube (+ swing arm lube while off). Brake pads look good and rear caliper piston moves easily, but I noticed the inside of the piston starting to rust a bit (if I rebuilt calipers, I'd likely soak piston inside with Evapo-Rust which I've used before along with phosphoric acid). I really like the idea of going through everything and getting caught up on all scheduled/recommended maintenance. What do the experts here think about the need for brake caliper rebuild on a 11 year old FJR with 24k miles? All Balls? I don't find much else. I dread the procedure I've read about doing the proper procedure for ABS activate/bleed, but I'm confident I can do it.

I would extend the piston and wipe the sides with a clean dry cloth to remove dirt and push it back. Brake circuits and clutch should be properly flushed every two years - pretty easy to do. Rust on the inside of the top isn't an issue as long as there is no corrosion where the piston meets the seal. I have never had to rebuild brakes on either of the two FJRs I have owned (186,000 miles on the '07 and 100,000 miles so far on the 2011). Never replaced seals, pistons, brake lines or master cylinder bits.

 

[Jay Evers]

Let me share a tip I picked up from the ST1300 forum regarding rust on the sealing surface of the caliper piston. Take a foot of nylon para cord and take the inner strand out. Extend your rusty piston out far enough to expose the rust. Take the para cord, dip it in brake fluid and wrap it around the piston. Now work it back and forth to clean up the rust. Worked like a charm on my 06, no more sticky brakes ! Jevers

 

[kdclaiborne]

I'd be shocked if the caliper needed rebuilding. Maybe needed if the old fluid was really bad or if there was fluid weeping around the seals.

Cycling the ABS system is simple; you can do it for sure. If you are brave, find a gravel road and dynamite the brakes, you'll know quickly if the system is working or not.

Thanks feejer, maintenance records "say" dealer "flushed and replenished" brake fluid and coolant just 3 months and less than 1k miles ago. Fluid is very clear and no leaks. And NO, I'm not that brave! lol

 

[kdclaiborne]

I would extend the piston and wipe the sides with a clean dry cloth to remove dirt and push it back. Brake circuits and clutch should be properly flushed every two years - pretty easy to do. Rust on the inside of the top isn't an issue as long as there is no corrosion where the piston meets the seal. I have never had to rebuild brakes on either of the two FJRs I have owned (186,000 miles on the '07 and 100,000 miles so far on the 2011). Never replaced seals, pistons, brake lines or master cylinder bits.

Thanks RossKean, I was able to see outside 25-30% of piston when I had calipers off to do the relay arm service. Clean and no rust. Dealer "flushed and replenished" brake fluid and coolant just 3 months ago and it is very clean. I'll plan to adhere to flush every 2 years as is highly recommended here.

 

[kdclaiborne]

Let me share a tip I picked up from the ST1300 forum regarding rust on the sealing surface of the caliper piston. Take a foot of nylon para cord and take the inner strand out. Extend your rusty piston out far enough to expose the rust. Take the para cord, dip it in brake fluid and wrap it around the piston. Now work it back and forth to clean up the rust. Worked like a charm on my 06, no more sticky brakes ! Jevers

Thanks Jay

 

[Harald]

As previously posted, I acquired a clean 2013 FJR A back in early January. Generally well maintained: oil/filter/drive changed, coolant/brake/clutch fluids recently flushed, recent fork seals and oil. I just completed the dreaded PITA rear suspension relay arm inspection and lube (+ swing arm lube while off). Brake pads look good and rear caliper piston moves easily, but I noticed the inside of the piston starting to rust a bit (if I rebuilt calipers, I'd likely soak piston inside with Evapo-Rust which I've used before along with phosphoric acid). I really like the idea of going through everything and getting caught up on all scheduled/recommended maintenance. What do the experts here think about the need for brake caliper rebuild on a 11 year old FJR with 24k miles? All Balls? I don't find much else. I dread the procedure I've read about doing the proper procedure for ABS activate/bleed, but I'm confident I can do it.

Like RossKean, I had a 145,00 mile FJR that I owned since new. Only brake maintenance done was regular pads and fluid and front rotors because I used some Carbone Lorraine pads that wore them down below spec. No hoses or anything else.
A couple things I regularly did was activate the ABS to cycle fluid through the module and always extended the caliper pistons to clean the OD when changing pads before pushing them back in. Really simple to get a block of wood about the thickness of the rotor and both metal pad backing and insert it between the pistons and squeeze the lever/pedal to push the pistons out enough but not too much.

 

[kdclaiborne]

Like RossKean, I had a 145,00 mile FJR that I owned since new. Only brake maintenance done was regular pads and fluid and front rotors because I used some Carbone Lorraine pads that wore them down below spec. No hoses or anything else.
A couple things I regularly did was activate the ABS to cycle fluid through the module and always extended the caliper pistons to clean the OD when changing pads before pushing them back in. Really simple to get a block of wood about the thickness of the rotor and both metal pad backing and insert it between the pistons and squeeze the lever/pedal to push the pistons out enough but not too much.

Like RossKean, I had a 145,00 mile FJR that I owned since new. Only brake maintenance done was regular pads and fluid and front rotors because I used some Carbone Lorraine pads that wore them down below spec. No hoses or anything else.
A couple things I regularly did was activate the ABS to cycle fluid through the module and always extended the caliper pistons to clean the OD when changing pads before pushing them back in. Really simple to get a block of wood about the thickness of the rotor and both metal pad backing and insert it between the pistons and squeeze the lever/pedal to push the pistons out enough but not too much.

Thanks Harald, sounds like good recommendation. I’ll follow regular fluid flush and activate the ABS to become familiar with the procedure

 

[Harald]

Thanks Harald, sounds like good recommendation. I’ll follow regular fluid flush and activate the ABS to become familiar with the procedure

There is an electronic method to activate the ABS. Someone posted it on the forum years ago and Yamaha sells a dealer "tool" to do this, although I think it's easily recreated. Try the search feature if you're interested

 

[Bugnatr]

I have a slight downhill gravel driveway, easy to activate the abs at a safe slow speed.

YRMV

 

[SkooterG]

I've put over 200k miles on two different FJRs. 150k miles on another. I've never rebuilt a caliper.

Ride more, stress less......

 

[Ignacio]

.... I've never rebuilt a caliper.

Ride more, stress less......

I agree.....on both points, but note I only have about 250K on FJRs. If the seals aren't leakin'....I'm not worrying.

 

[Whooshka]

Thanks Harald, sounds like good recommendation. I’ll follow regular fluid flush and activate the ABS to become familiar with the procedure

I've posted this before....

Bleeding brakes in a nutshell....

1) Left front caliper
2) Right front top bleeder
3) Rear caliper
4) Right front bottom bleeder
5) Exercise the ABS pump by
a) bike on center stand
b) jumper the light blue and black wires on the connector up under the dash panel near the battery
c) Side stand down, bike in gear (I think)
d) turn on key
e) hold the starter button for 4 seconds
f) pull lever and step on pedal at the same time and hold (you'll feel it cycle/pulsate from lever to pedal to lever again until it stops)
e) turn off key
6) Repeat ABS pump again if you want
7) Repeat steps 3 & 4. Remove jumper wire.

You can use a small alligator clip to jump the 2 wires.

 

[kdclaiborne]

I've posted this before....

Bleeding brakes in a nutshell....

1) Left front caliper
2) Right front top bleeder
3) Rear caliper
4) Right front bottom bleeder
5) Exercise the ABS pump by
a) bike on center stand
b) jumper the light blue and black wires on the connector up under the dash panel near the battery
c) Side stand down, bike in gear (I think)
d) turn on key
e) hold the starter button for 4 seconds
f) pull lever and step on pedal at the same time and hold (you'll feel it cycle/pulsate from lever to pedal to lever again until it stops)
e) turn off key
6) Repeat ABS pump again if you want
7) Repeat steps 3 & 4. Remove jumper wire.

You can use a small alligator clip to jump the 2 wires.

Thanks Whooshka! I’ve seen several variations of this, but your steps seem most clear and concise to me. Will file this and execute soon before a spring trip.

 

[Pete-o]

After flushing the brake system. When you activate the ABS pump; 1, do you need to do front and rear individually? 2, once or twice a season or every third or fourth ride?

 

[RossKean]

After flushing the brake system. When you activate the ABS pump; 1, do you need to do front and rear individually? 2, once or twice a season or every third or fourth ride?

Front and rear are done individually and once or twice a year should be sufficient. I deliberately exercise my ABS on a semi-regular basis - typically on a sandy paved parking lot.

https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/test-and-maintain-your-abs-system.136000/