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Rad had an explination that seemed to be correct......don't have the means currently to do a search. In my experience....has happened to me twice....having a fully charged battery is very important! If this happens again, do not turn off the key, but rather go to full throttle and crank it hard for 15 seconds or so. At that time, it should start and act as if nothing has happened. Very strange, but seems to be low voltage to the ECU sensitive!jim
EUREEEKA it worked, and I sure thank all of you for answering. I did use a little dry

gas and let it set overnight, opened throttle wide, battery fully charged and it fired right

up. ride safe :rolleyes:

 
One more time! The FJR runs VERY rich on a cold start/cold warm up cycle. Bikes that are shut down cold have a pretty rich mix in them, can be lit in a chamber already somewhat warm from running, but in a cold chamber, with a cold start, flooding is likely, so no start. WFO throttle shuts down the injectors if cold, this gets it running on the mix already present. If ever the bike doesn't light right off cold, the WFO throttle trick works 'bout every time. This will also work even if the battery is down a bit, naturally the more fully charged the battery is, the better your chances.

 
AAAAND...

bike stored out in the elements degrade quickly and seriously regardless of brand.

hie thee to some protection for that investment.

 
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I was hoping Steeld would get back to us and list the cause. I think he said he was getting ready to take it to the dealer for diagnosis and repair; maybe not fixed yet, but hope the explanation reaches this thread so all will know what happened to his bike.

 
This type of problem hasn't come back from a dealer with a definitive solution yet, as far as I know. In the previous posts with similar start issues the dealer says he checked the plugs and fiddled with stuff then it started. I don't recall any dealer saying it definitely was a problem with the ??????, we replaced/adjusted it and now it starts fine, this is what went wrong....

Given the way the failure occurred and the age of the bike I would have expected a fully charged battery, clean & dry plugs and a wide open throttle to have allowed the engine to start. It is tough to diagnose remotely though, we can't see the gas gauge, look for pinched hoses or the other little nuances.

 
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TIPS: Don't turn key on unnecessarily, fuel pump runs each time you do, floods engine.

True. Each time you switch the key on and off, the FI system goes through its cold start sequence of providing extra rich start mixture. You can easily flood and engine doing this.

Some manuals explain this.

Bruno

Montreal, Canada

Gerbing Cascade Extreme jacket review

 
TIPS: Don't turn key on unnecessarily, fuel pump runs each time you do, floods engine.

True. Each time you switch the key on and off, the FI system goes through its cold start sequence of providing extra rich start mixture. You can easily flood and engine doing this.

Some manuals explain this.

Bruno

Montreal, Canada

Gerbing Cascade Extreme jacket review
Huh?

The fuel pump is running, but the injectors aren't injecting. Not until the engine starts cranking. So without the engine cranking and injectors injecting, no gas is being fed into the cylinders, and so no flooding. On many, many, occasions of I have turned the ignition on and off cycling the fuel pump several times on a cold engine with nary a problem - starts right up every time.

 
Huh?The fuel pump is running, but the injectors aren't injecting. Not until the engine starts cranking. So without the engine cranking and injectors injecting, no gas is being fed into the cylinders, and so no flooding. On many, many, occasions of I have turned the ignition on and off cycling the fuel pump several times on a cold engine with nary a problem - starts right up every time.
Typical of most if not all modern injection systems, the initial key on runs the pump for two seconds. As long as the key isn't cycled again, the pump stays off until a minimum rpm signal is indicated from the crank or cam sensor indicating the engine has started. If an engine is flooded, repeated cycling of the key just provides more fuel at pressure worsening the problem. If an engine is flooded, WFO throttle, combined with not cycling the key, will quickly get the bike going. Turning the key repeatedly off and hitting the start button for 2-3 seconds guarantees a no start if the motor hasn't lit off right away. The key cycling is normal procedure for someone unfamiliar with the problem, which is NOT unique to the FJR. Cranking the engine, key on but not repeatedly cycled off and on again, will get most motors to fire without holding the throttle wide open, which is another means to an end. If a dry rail is suspected (after a long sit etc), repeated cycling of the key ensures complete fuel rail filling. The FP regulator, with no vacumn signal, closes completely just as if the throttle was wide open, providing max pressure and flow at the injector, but doesn't flow excess fuel to the tank until full rail pressure is reached, so it doesn't purge air very well in the 2 seconds the pump initially runs. This is part of the cold start theory providing a max dose of fuel for cold starting. If plugs are tired, condensation or unused fuel still resides in the chambers, a tired battery with minimum voltage, or any combination of the previous exists, you have good conditions for a no start when a fresh dose of fuel is added to the mix.

 
Each time you switch the key on and off, the FI system goes through its cold start sequence of providing extra rich start mixture. You can easily flood and engine doing this.

Some manuals explain this.
Huh?
A good way to flood the engine and make sure you need to install fresh plugs is the following:

If the engine cranks but does not start, you turn ignition key off and then on again. If you do this cycle twice when the engine is hard to start, you are almost guaranteeing a flooded engine.

DAMHIK :dribble:

Bruno

Montreal, Canada

https://pages.videotron.com/mcrides

Gerbing Cascade Extreme jacket review

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