Let's Discuss Brake Pads

[hppants]

Just flipped 20K on my '05. That makes 15K in 9 months - not too shabby for a weekender/tourer. Needless to say, I'm enjoying my bike.

I have 4 questions regarding brake pads (specifically the front):

1. Do the factory brake pads have a "tickler" that warns the rider with a squeal when the pads have reached their service life? I don't see anything obvious.

2. Does anyone know what the thickness of the pad material is from the factory?

3. Are the factory pads sintered or organic?

(And here's where the mods move this thread to the NEPRD board)

4. Which pads are the best and why?

 

[FJRay]

There are no indicators other than looking at them. Thickness is around 3/16" and they seem to be a sintered material. I tried the EBC pads and they cost me a set of rotors so I went back to stock. 03 rotors are spendy.

 

[Fred W]

Ray nailed it, above. :clapping:

I see no reason (on a 1st gen) to mess around with non-OEM brake pads (2nd gens use many more pads at more expense). The stock Yamaha pads give excellent feel, last a reasonable amount of mileage, and are pretty easy on the rotors.

No squeelers. But the stock pads do have a groove down the center that indicates the wear limit.

But... just because you can't see it, don't order your new pads just yet. Take the pads out and see if the groove is just packed with brake dust (like mine were). Also, you may find that one pad is more worn than it's opposite cousin, due to some slight drag in the caliper. Flip/rotate your pads around to get the best mileage from the set, and try to clean up the caliper pistons to get rid of the drag.

 

[UHOH]

have an '04. light brake user. 69,000

use stock pads from Yamaha, 100%. no other experience.

I need to visually inspect them for remaining pad depth.

have swapped inside to outside pads to even up wear and avoid buying new sets.

works w/o problems. @ 20K, and a medium user, you're about due for a swap.

hope this helps.

 

[hppants]

Good tips - I'll examine closer this weekend and if appropriate, I'll swap the pads and see how that works.

Many thanks for the ideas.

 

[Andyfjr]

I have just installed a set of SBS sintered pads as the originals cost a fortune. The SBS have good feel. Apparently SBS were used in Yamaha a number of years ago as standard.

 

[LAF]

I just ordered a complete set front and rear OEM from boats.net 214.00 to the door.

After all my reading here stock is the way to go.

Mine were a bit more as I ordered the rear shims for a couple bucks more to the order.

Not cheap but ANY EBC product I have used turns into vapor in a very short period of time.

 

[hppants]

I examined the brakes more closely this morning. I have NOTHING to worry about - after blowing the dust out of my center groove, I have tons left to go. Thanks again for the tip.

Strangly, the inner pad is much more worn than the outer. On a floating caliper none the less? Maybe when the inners reach the end of the groove, I'll just buy one set and put them on the inner side. We'll see.

Partshark.com has OEM pads for $35.00 per set. I've used them religiously for my OEM parts - cheapest by far and very good delivery service. Very pricey none the less.

Thanks again for the tips.

 

[Fred W]

I examined the brakes more closely this morning. I have NOTHING to worry about - after blowing the dust out of my center groove, I have tons left to go. Thanks again for the tip.

Strangly, the inner pad is much more worn than the outer. On a floating caliper none the less? Maybe when the inners reach the end of the groove, I'll just buy one set and put them on the inner side. We'll see.

Partshark.com has OEM pads for $35.00 per set. I've used them religiously for my OEM parts - cheapest by far and very good delivery service. Very pricey none the less.

Thanks again for the tips.

Lot's of folks have noticed the same wear pattern (inners wearing faster) and just rotate the inners and the outters about half way through.

 

[Graham Downunder]

A good tip is to wipe down the disc with some spray on brake cleaner . Spray it on a scorer pad ( you know the type the wife cleans the frypan with ) , wipe the disc ,then dry the disc with a CLEAN cloth you will be surprised at what comes off .

 

[Auburn]

as Ray said above, aftermarkert brake pads come with a cost not readily seen until you try them. That is, many offer cheaper cost for the pads, improved braking over stock pads, but with that comes additional wear on OEM rotors. As in Ray's case, they ate his rotors. That is very expensive. Manufactures do a a lot of research to match the brake pad/performance to the rotors so you don't have that issue.

When I ws racing, you could run EBC pads and have greatly improved braking performance with any rotor. But the only rotor that would last with EBC pads were EBC rotors. If you mixed and EBC pad with Brembo rotors (or any other), they ate the rotors. Granted you had very very good brakes, but there was a price for it. Increased component costs. Not very good for a budget mined racer.

The OEM Yamaha pads are very good, no need to switch. That few dollars you save on buying the pads will most likely cost you way more in the long run with accelerated rotor wear. Of course YMMV.

 

[900gc]

as Ray said above, aftermarkert brake pads come with a cost not readily seen until you try them. That is, many offer cheaper cost for the pads, improved braking over stock pads, but with that comes additional wear on OEM rotors. As in Ray's case, they ate his rotors. That is very expensive. Manufactures do a a lot of research to match the brake pad/performance to the rotors so you don't have that issue.

When I ws racing, you could run EBC pads and have greatly improved braking performance with any rotor. But the only rotor that would last with EBC pads were EBC rotors. If you mixed and EBC pad with Brembo rotors (or any other), they ate the rotors. Granted you had very very good brakes, but there was a price for it. Increased component costs. Not very good for a budget mined racer.

The OEM Yamaha pads are very good, no need to switch. That few dollars you save on buying the pads will most likely cost you way more in the long run with accelerated rotor wear. Of course YMMV.

I've run EBC HH w/Galfer wave rotors on my SV race bike for years; 2 finger stoppies and the rotors still look new. On the other hand, the $1000 iron Brembo SBK rotors I had wore down pretty quick as you mentioned. I do find the OEM pads on the FJR to be quite acceptable so I would stick to what already works well.

 

[FJR Flyer]

I've also found hat the pads on he pistons controlled by the rear pedal are a lot less worn than the others (Genn II obviously) and can also be moved around to get your money's worth out of all the pads. I've only used OEM pads.

I didn't think they were full floatin rotors, only semi. They don't rattle enough to be full floaters.