Proper torq. specs for oil drain plug..?

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Rexford

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Perhaps I should have titled this updated...?

I've checked in the FAQ section; read the '13-up Bin-O-Facts and on the oil drain plug information they say that the torque spec for the plug is 31ft. lbs with a note stating that some have found that this spec. will strip out the threads in the drain pan.. so has anyone found a proper spec for the drain plug that is acceptable? I cannot check the DIY videos as I am running windows 98 and on dial-up so you-tube is a no-go. I would appreciate an appropiate response with a proper torque spec. that works. Also, can the mods update the bin-o-facts as info becomes available to keep us newbies from bothering with this type of question??

Thank you in advance,

Rexford

 
I'm away from home so I can't look it up in my manual, but I use the same torque as the drain and fill bolts for the final drive (much lower than 31 ft-lbs). They are essentially the same bolts as your oil plug, threaded into aluminum casting. That torque has served me well for more than a dozen oil changes with no stripped threads.

 
This one has been brought up several times before and I know I will not be the only one to say, I have never ever used a torque wrench on any oil drain bolt, neither car nor motorcycle. Tight is tight. If it don't leak, you're good to go. As the FAQ states, some folks have stripped their oil pan by trying to follow the recommended torque value for that bolt.

 
reminds me of one of my favorite lines - "I routinely twist the maximum allowable torquage"

  • Vinny: Maybe you didn't twist it hard enough.
  • Mona Lisa: I twisted it just right.
  • Vinny: How can you be so sure?
  • Mona Lisa: If you will look in the manual, you will see that this particular model faucet requires a range of 10-16 foot pounds of torque. I routinely twist the maximum allowable torquage.
  • Vinny: How can you be sure you used 16 foot pounds of torque?
  • Mona Lisa: Because I used a Craftsman model 1019 Laboratory edition, signature series torque wrench. The kind used by Cal Tech High Energy physicists, and NASA engineers.
  • Vinny: In that case, how can you be sure that's accurate?
  • Mona Lisa: Because a split second before the torque wrench was applied to the faucet handle, it had been calibrated by top members of the state and federal Departments of Weights and Measures, to be dead-on balls accurate. Here's the certificate of validation.
  • Vinny: "Dead-on balls accurate"?
  • Mona Lisa: It's an industry term.
  • Vinny: I guess the fucking thing is broken.
 
best thing you can do is keep that torque wrench away from that drain bolt. Just snug it up good.
+1 it seems that the people who have issues stripping drain plugs used a torque wrench to cause the problem. I have never used a torque wrench on a drain plug (I have 3), never stripped one and only had one leak. Oil will leak profusely if you neglect to install the drain plug in a 75 CJ5 Jeep.

 
Anyone who uses a torque wrench on a drain plug should probably let the dealer do their oil changes. Jeeze!!!
Heh :)

Here is the thing about drain plugs. We all have seen, and tightened, a great many on different vehicles since we were kids. Never in the recorded memory of all humanity has there needed to be a discussion on the torque value of a drain plug. It's a drain plug! The only reason it is a "thing" is because someone at Yamaha over-tightened a few.

Drain plugs seal against a deformable washer. Provided you tighten in just enough tpo deform it slightly, and not so much that it is squishing out of the sides like a cheese slice on a burger, then it is quite tight enough. The quoted 17 ft lb is a best-guess, by Yamaha, to satisfy people's curiosity for an answer.

The fact is that a range of values covers this, from "snug + a bit", to "quite tight but don't overdo it".

 
Rexford,

This forum has become so much kinder and gentler!

A couple years ago anyone who brought up this subject would have been "dog piled" and nobody would have answered the original question. Instead, it would have been "kindly" suggested that the original inquisitor should google the subject!

Indeed, this subject has been "beat to death" as you could see by conducting a google search of: drain bolt torque site:fjrforum.com

Plenty of reading material there!!

Good Luck.

 
No oil drain plug torque thread is complete without a crush washer debate. I've done about a dozen oil changes and still have the original washer on there. I've yet to drip one drop of oil. I can't see how a new one could work better than the one I have
smile.png


 
No oil drain plug torque thread is complete without a crush washer debate. I've done about a dozen oil changes and still have the original washer on there. I've yet to drip one drop of oil. I can't see how a new one could work better than the one I have
smile.png
Yeah, sure, fine. But what brand of oil do you use? I'll bet Genuine Yamalube Oil will leak if not provided a new squishy washer each an every time.

 
I cannot check the DIY videos as I am running windows 98 and on dial-up so you-tube is a no-go.
Wait... you're using windows 98?

.. on dial-up?

omg2.gif
Yes sir I am...... And last Oct. I upgraded my cell phone to a flip-phone due to the fact that my little nokia was only 2G and AT&T was upgradeing their towers to 4G. In fact, I still have a land line.

And if you guys want another laugh, my wife and I have been all over the country (on nothing but back roads) using maps and no GPS.

 
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