recommendations for spark plugs

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palerider

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Hi,

What's the wisdom on spark plugs? I'm giving a a little love to my '06 AE--all fluids, valve check, TBS--and wonder which plugs to use. Is there a reason to use other than the stock plugs?

 
The NEPRT stop watch is ticking...

Any brand name spark plug that is equivalent to the OEM plug will do an equal job. Lead free gas is easy on plugs and the FJR is easy on plugs.

The only decision would be To Iridium or Not To Iridium. Iridium plugs have a longer life than a conventional plug so you would under the tank less often but cost a lot more and the center electrode is fragile. Do not try to gap an Iridium plug, it can be done but is not risk free.

IMO, just put in a standard plug and you are good to go. With any type new plug you probably won't see better gas mileage, smoother operation or more power. Modern engines with electronic ignition are very tolerant of plug type and plug condition.

The Gen I & Gen II FJR has a 'waste spark' ignition causing two of the four plugs to fire backwards, you can rotate the plugs to get better plug life.

The Gen III FJR has COP ignition - Coil Over Plug so all the plugs fire in a conventional way from center electrode to side tab ground and only fire half as often as the earlier waste spark ignitions.

 
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The NEPRT stop watch is ticking...
Any brand name spark plug that is equivalent to the OEM plug will do an equal job. Lead free gas is easy on plugs and the FJR is easy on plugs.

The only decision would be To Iridium or Not To Iridium. Iridium plugs have a longer life than a conventional plug so you would under the tank less often but cost a lot more and the center electrode is fragile. Do not try to gap an Iridium plug, it can be done but is not risk free.

IMO, just put in a standard plug and you are good to go. With any type new plug you probably won't see better gas mileage, smoother operation or more power. Modern engines with electronic ignition are very tolerant of plug type and plug condition.

The Gen I & Gen II FJR has a 'waste spark' ignition causing two of the four plugs to fire backwards, you can rotate the plugs to get better plug life.

The Gen III FJR has COP ignition - Coil Over Plug so all the plugs fire in a conventional way from center electrode to side tab ground and only fire half as often as the earlier waste spark ignitions.
Learned something new there. So does the owners manual still recommend plugs every 8000 mile since they are firing half as often?

 
Yep still every 8K

I've always used regular NGK plugs for all my vehicles.

 
The 8k mile interval is just a generic number without a lot of engineering put into it.

There is one guy recently that likes to run his FJR >6k rpm all the time, another rider may only run <4k rpm, the plugs would have a very different life based on number of sparks. Then there are things like frequent cold starts or long periods of idling that also have an impact on plug life. Anything less than 8k miles is too soon to change the plugs.

IMO, you can go 16k to 24k miles with no difference in mileage or performance. The only issue with leaving the plugs in a lloonngg time is the (very, very slim) outside chance that carbon will build up around the base of the threads where it enters the combustion chamber causing the plugs to stick or damage the threads when removed. Other than that the plugs will perform just fine. Many cars these days have 100k mile change intervals.

 
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Just put in NGK iridium from Rock Auto-2 bucks more each than regular plugs...got at least 30 more ponies....

 
Just put in NGK iridium from Rock Auto-2 bucks more each than regular plugs...got at least 30 more ponies....
Rock Auto is selling the Autolite XS4303 Iridium plug for $4.05. For four plugs, plus shipping, comes out to $19.06--substantially less than I just paid on eBay for four NGKs. Wish I'd seen your post a few seconds earlier.

 
Premature since I only have 380 miles on the 14ES. Does this same NKG plug apply for the GenIII?...
The Gen III is asking for a NGK/CPR8EA-9 Basically the same plug with the same gap but the P indicates a projected porcelain insulator type. It's in the owners manual.

NGK's catalog shows the same spark plug: CR8E & iridium CR8EIX from '01 to present.

 
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Based on decades of working on Japanese cars, I would NOT use autolite, champion, delco or anything other than NGK or Nippondenso.

I wish I had a dollar for every time a running problem proved to be those brand new plugs the owner just got from the parts house..

Ohh wait, I do have those dollars!

 
I think the 8,000 mile spark plug change is extremely excessive, maybe if you ride it at redline all day or you do a lot of track days with it.

I had mine changed at about 8,000 miles and they only were slightly tan color, I'm gonna do 20,000 mile changes.

 
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Looking for spark plug recommendations?

I definitely recommend using them. These FJR engines won't run worth a damn without 'em.
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But to they inferred question, which ones? I recommend using what's called for in the owners manuals and the factory service manuals: NGK CR8E.

They work well, and last for a long time. For at least as long as I want to leave any spark plug in an alloy motorcycle head, and that is about 25k miles, which coincidentally is when the valves need to be checked.

Iridium is a waste of money, IMO, since the standard plugs will last as long as they do, and as mentioned by Professor ionbeam, with the 1st and 2nd gen bikes having a wasted spark design, the iridium is only doing anything at all on 1/2 of the plugs. I suppose if you were really lazy you could put a set of Iridiums in a 3rd gen with COP and leave them in for 50k miles. I'll just wish you good luck getting those plugs out at that time.

Rock Auto sells the CR8E's for $3.50 ea. and the CR8EIX for $6.50 ea. So if you decide to take the risk and leave the iridiums in for 50k miles you'll save a whopping $2 (50 cents per cylinder).

 
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Rock Auto sells the CR8E's for $3.50 ea. and the CR8EIX for $6.50 ea. So if you decide to take the risk and leave the iridiums in for 50k miles you'll save a whopping $2 (50 cents per cylinder).
Thanks Fred.

My anal-compulsive dickness requires me to point out that the difference between $3.50 and $6.50 is $3, not $2.

 
If you're doing your valve checks at the right intervals, you should be removing your plugs to inspect them...... good enough for me. Iridiums up to you.

 
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