Khunajawdge
Toto El Mundo!
First of all, let me say; I really “like” the Thai people. I have been to Thailand 7 times. I do Not travel to Thailand for pleasure only, I travel there for business. My work is legitimate (missionary, if you like?) and I must abstain from answering “colored” comments. The Thai people (in my opinion) are superb, and I know them only as my friends. I wish I could post more of the 600 photos I took while I was there last month, but I had to edit/pick the photos that would fit this format. The following (motorcycling dialog) is one of the things that brought me to Central Thailand, and what follows is a ride experience that happened the weekend of 9/1/07 – 9/3/07.
On Friday August 31, I packed and checked out of the Trang Hotel, Bamlumpoo village, Bangkok, Thailand, leaving much of my luggage there at the hotel at a meager fee of about USD $ 1.00/piece/day, and headed out on a Gov’t bus for the Khanchanaburi frontier from Sai Thai (Southern Bus Terminal). Upon arrival in Kanchanaburi town, I checked into the Jolly Frog Backpacker’s Resort on the River Kwai 290 BHT/day, then wandered out on the River Kwai River Road to look for a medium sized bike to rent. Ended up finding a motorcycle at Yanni motorbike rental, and re-visited the Floating Restaurant under the Bridge on the River Kwai that I had visited with a tour group 2 weekends before = good food! After dining on river fish, green papaya salad, and sticky rice, I rode around K-buri for a while via the roads that edge the river and returned back to the Jolly Frog at dusk.
I had called a couple of guys that I knew in Thailand to “see” if they were interested in joining me on this ride. Bill Berry (a BMW rider) from Sacramento, CA. was in Thailand, but we failed to connect at the last minute. I had conversed with Marc, aka Khun Man or Thailand fjr on the FJR (Invision) Forum, a couple of times prior. We spoke on the phone in Thailand about getting together, but Khun Man was in Chiang Mai 600 kilometers to the north of Bangkok, and I wasn’t going to have the time to go there. He was also unable to take the time to do the distance south as well. Khun Man does own an FJR 1300. We’ll have to pick this up next time Marc!
The bike I like to rent in Thailand is “cheap” = 500 baht/per day. Approx 33 Thai Baht = USD $1, so the rental fee is USD $15/per day. When renting a bike in Thailand, one must relinquish one’s passport. This is a consideration in case there are damages or other significant warrants, that “could” eventually, effect one’s leaving the country, if details were not taken care of. I usually rent a cruiser style, air cooled, one lunger called a Honda Phantom @ 175 cc’s. I like this bike as it will cruise between 90 to 100 km/hr. all day long. The little bike is a 6 speed and it is a familiar standard clutch style operation. The one I found was fairly new, had a large saddle, and a small sissy bar on the stern for carrying my clothes, tools and rain gear in a waterproof gear bag. I also strapped a small hand bag to the front of the bike over the front handlebars to carry the cell phone (Thailand only), first aid kit, flashlight, travel info, and sundry items. Securing all of this to the bike was accomplished by the use of a pair of bungees, and a cargo net, obtained from the rental place. The bike had decent rubber, good brakes with recently changed fluids, a side stand, working lighting including; flashers fore an aft, brake light, head and tail light. The bike checked out, and I did a pre-ride test ride before relying on it to do some distance.
Note; Fjr 1300’s are NOT rental material in Thailand. Harleys are available at larger resort cities such as Phuket, Korat, Pattaya, or Chiang Mai as well as other models/brands. In Kanchanaburi, I found a couple of 400 cc models including a KZ400, and a Yamaha V-Star 400, but the rental fee for these was way more (like USD $125/day), which is too rich for my blood. A large part of my preliminary search was conducted on the internet, but checking actual availability, really takes a visit in person. Besides, I like to sit on the bike I’m going to rent to see if my butt etc. are going to be happy riding it all day. Here’s a picture of a Honda Big Boss IV, that I rented a couple of years ago in Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand).
On Saturday, 1/9/07, 7:30 AM, I was packed and dressed in my motorcycle gear, heading out to what would become a 500 kilometer ride over the next 2 days. For me, riding gear is the same summer outfit that I use in the USA. Joe Rocket Phoenix pants and jacket, over a T-shirt and bicycle riding shorts. If it rains it’ll be warm, so I just get wet. When the rain stops, I blow dry. To finish out this ensemble; riding gloves, all-weather boots, a “slick” helmet liner, and a good helmet brought with me to Thailand from home. Crash helmets in Thailand leave a lot to be desired in the safety/comfort area. Another thing I will take next time is a beaded seat cover or something that gets my butt up off the seat, providing a little air flow.
Riding a motorcycle in the city of Bangkok or in any Thai city is not appealing to me at all. The countryside however is another story. First of all, one must drive on the left side as does “most” other traffic. Basically, the smaller your track, the closer to the left shoulder you should stay. If you overtake another vehicle, then a signal flash button is provided on your handlebar to announce your intent to pass. I learned to always ride with my eye on the rear view mirror, in case something really BIG was bearing down on me, like a tour Bus. If someone (myself included) wishes to make a right turn which would have me crossing on coming traffic, the method is to pull off to the left shoulder, stop and wait until it is clear before crossing the highway, unless of course there is a right turn lane provided at a more major intersection. I am wary of this method, as sometimes the motorist ahead will slow to pull off on the left. One “wild card” would be a situation where I would be used to driving “the Continental way” and would hog the centerline before making a right turn. This could end up in a devastating result in Thailand because The Big Guy has the right of way at ALL times.
Equipped with the above and some 30 + years of combined motorcycling experience, I proceeded up Thailand Highway 323. Approx 40 Kilometers north east of K-buri, I discovered a temple where the monks have accepted the responsibility to take care of tigers called the Tiger Temple. They walk with the tigers after feeding them at noon daily, and visitors can join them. WOW, must be quite a thrill, but I got there at 9:00AM so I’ll have to see this next time! After that stop, I rode further north to The Hell Fire Pass museum up Thailand Hwy 323. This museum commemorates those war prisoners who built the Death Railway of which The Bridge Over the River Kwai was a key part. I had to stop there to get off the bike due to a passing thundershower and duck inside. When the rain quit, I made it to the end of my ride that day to the Khao Laem Reservoir about 50 klicks short of 3 Pagodas Pass and the border of Burma. I really wanted to make it to the border, but I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to find an overnight accommodation, and I wasn’t carrying camping gear. Even though it seemed remotely appealing to me to camp out, who knows what lives in a Thai forest (at night)? :blink:
Heading back south again on 323, I took a divert path toward the river Kwai Noi and found a Floating Raft Resort called the River Kwai Paradise, owned by a Thai guy named Syd. He was very congenial and spoke perfect English. Syd was as surprised to see me as I was to find his place. He had begun a tourist travel business with the Russians about 20 years ago and had been building this resort for the past 800 days (this was how he measured his time?). I stayed at this resort on the river with a bunch of tourists (50 or so) from Lithuania, and had to sing a couple of songs with them after dinner, of which they taught me the chorus words. It was probably the Lithuanian national anthem, but hey, I can’t carry a tune in barrel. I did tell them “the joke” about the three guys shipwrecked on a desert island. I’m sorry, I can’t really re-live the singing experience for you vocally. After countless beers with the Lithuanians, my stay was very memorable! :drinks:
The next morning was Sunday; I packed again and was back on the saddle by 10:00 AM. Rode south back to Sai Yok and turned east toward Thai hwy 3199. At the Intersection, I turned north again toward the Si Nakarim Dam and Erawan National Forest. I passed the elephant Riding Center, the Queen Sirikit dam, and the entrance to the National Forest. as my goal for the day was the end of this highway at Si Sawat. Si Sawat turned out to be a town full of fishing resorts and boat service rentals frequented by sport fishermen from Bangkok. Most of these characters are businessmen who escape to the mountains in the same way those urbanites from LA or SF retreat to the Sierras here in California. I “somehow?” can relate to this social cross section. Returned the bike at 4:00PM to Yanee MC Rentals, ate dinner at a ranahan (small café) along the river, and re-boarded a bus bound for Bangkok at 5:30PM. Arrived in Bangkok, Thanon Pinklao via the Phekasem Highway at around 7:30 PM and took a taxi from Sai Thai (Southern Bus) station for the Trang Hotel. All in all, a great riding adventure experience! Anyways, I considered the weekend an educational experience for me, but unsure at this time how I will make further use of the info. We’ll see, next time I’m in Thailand. :yahoo:
Note to travelers. Even though many Thai people can read English, not as many Thais that you encounter daily, can speak it. I would recommend learning a few basic phrases (In Thai) before traveling there. Be for warned: One should NOT attempt this kind of International ride experience, without first being a very competent rider (MSF basic and Intermediate etc.) Remember; you are in another man’s country, his rules apply first, but your own individual skills are paramount. You Are Always On Your Own (YOAYO).
