Throttle free play

[oldaxe]

I'm wondering how much free play there should be in the throttle (06).

I've got about 1/4" and feel it's a bit sloppy. My old FJ had more like 1/8" and was much smoother getting on and off the gas. Seems to be a bit of snatch in the drive train. I know the chain drive can be a bit jerky when there is too much play in the throttle.

I asked the dealer's service guy (for what that's worth) to look at it during the 600 mile check and I think he was too lazy to lift the tank to adjust it. Ok he said. I wouldn't go into the rest of the issues with their service.

You thoughts are welcome.

Old Axe

 

[radman]

There's 2 spots to adjust it-one of which doesn't require the tank to be moved. Down just a bit from the grip on the pull cable, you'll see a rubber cover a couple inches long. Slip that down, and you'll find a pull cable adjuster like you're used to seeing on older bikes. I run very, very little play (1/16" maybe) with no handlebar movement effects on throttle opening. Just be sure once you've tightened things up that full left-right bar movement does not affect rpm's.

 

[HaulinAshe]

+1 on very little play. Just check the full range of bar movements to make sure you have SOME play at all positions. Less is more in my book too!

 

[JoshHefnerX]

I bought mine used from a local bmw dealer here and asked them about what I thought was excessive play (close to 1/4") and asked them to look at that. They had the "Yamaha guy" come from down the street and said it was within spec. So, I just used the adjustment up near the handlebar and removed it myself when I got home.

Josh

 

[borrec]

Too much slack. Did it myself too at the handlebar adjuster.

 

[oldaxe]

Well you guys were right. I adjusted it at the bar and was able to remove the slack and still have no RPM change when turning the bars full lock in both directions. Haven't ridden it yet but it has to be better. Thanks

Old Axe

 

[blueman]

Stupid questi on concerning adjusting the throttle free play. The two cables leading out. After sliping the cover off which way do you turn the two adjusters to take up free play. And should those adjuster be fairly stiff to turn.

 

[mindtrip]

Stupid questi on concerning adjusting the throttle free play. The two cables leading out. After sliping the cover off which way do you turn the two adjusters to take up free play. And should those adjuster be fairly stiff to turn.

I had been meaning to do this job; your question prompted me to go look and do it. I think you're looking at the wrong thing. If you look at the throttle grip assembley that holds the grip onto the bar, you see two cables coming out. Only one of these is the throttle pull cable; the other is a push cable, to push the throttle bodies close in case the springs fail--very redundant and unnecessary system, but there you go. If you follow both cables down away from the bar about 3 or 4 inches, you'll see that only ONE of these cables has another rubber boot around it. Imagine an old-style tubular glass filament fuse, and imagine that it's quite large; this boot looks like it would house a large in-line fuse like this. It's actually two rubber boots that pull apart in opposite directions; pull them apart, and you'll see a large hexagonal 'bolt', with two nuts on the end closest to the throttle grip. One of these nuts is on the end of the throttle cable, the other is a lock nut that tightents the cable nut agains the large bolt (for all you picky minsters, yes I know the large hexagonal thing is actually the nut). You'll need two 8mm box end wrenches to do this correctly; I of course only had one 8mm box end wrench, but a 5/16 box end wrench was close enough to work. Hold the cable nut in one wrench, undo the middle nut, and now the large hexagonal shaft can easily rotate in and out. Unscrew it until you've taken out most of the slack from the cable and you're happy there's no binding when you turn the bars (ie the idle speed should not increase no matter which was you turn the bars), then hold the cable nut again, and lock the middle nut against the large hexagonal shaft. I'd post pics but my camera is broken, sorry. But it should make sense once you're looking at the right thing.

Cheers!

 

[sparky3008]

Well you guys were right. I adjusted it at the bar and was able to remove the slack and still have no RPM change when turning the bars full lock in both directions. Haven't ridden it yet but it has to be better. ThanksOld Axe

Just to add, my 05 had the same problem and tightening made the slow parking lot stuff 100% better.

Amazing the little stuff the dealers don't do. Oh yea I lost a front wheel reflector on my way home.

Mechanic must have been in a hurry

 

[Beano]

Stupid questi on concerning adjusting the throttle free play. The two cables leading out. After sliping the cover off which way do you turn the two adjusters to take up free play. And should those adjuster be fairly stiff to turn.

I had been meaning to do this job; your question prompted me to go look and do it. I think you're looking at the wrong thing. If you look at the throttle grip assembley that holds the grip onto the bar, you see two cables coming out. Only one of these is the throttle pull cable; the other is a push cable, to push the throttle bodies close in case the springs fail--very redundant and unnecessary system, but there you go. If you follow both cables down away from the bar about 3 or 4 inches, you'll see that only ONE of these cables has another rubber boot around it. Imagine an old-style tubular glass filament fuse, and imagine that it's quite large; this boot looks like it would house a large in-line fuse like this. It's actually two rubber boots that pull apart in opposite directions; pull them apart, and you'll see a large hexagonal 'bolt', with two nuts on the end closest to the throttle grip. One of these nuts is on the end of the throttle cable, the other is a lock nut that tightents the cable nut agains the large bolt (for all you picky minsters, yes I know the large hexagonal thing is actually the nut). You'll need two 8mm box end wrenches to do this correctly; I of course only had one 8mm box end wrench, but a 5/16 box end wrench was close enough to work. Hold the cable nut in one wrench, undo the middle nut, and now the large hexagonal shaft can easily rotate in and out. Unscrew it until you've taken out most of the slack from the cable and you're happy there's no binding when you turn the bars (ie the idle speed should not increase no matter which was you turn the bars), then hold the cable nut again, and lock the middle nut against the large hexagonal shaft. I'd post pics but my camera is broken, sorry. But it should make sense once you're looking at the right thing.

Cheers!

Thanks to Mindtrip for this tip,i was totally confused with the twin cable setup.I was about to remove the tank before i found this thread.It was just like he said a simple two minute job.

Cheers :thumbsup: