To grease . . . or not to grease . . . that is the ?

[Fred W]

Youd have to remove the rubber seal on the brake end (#4) and then there is a threaded nut of some type (#3) that holds the spacers in the wheel hub. Adjuster nut may require a special wrench? Havent ever taken one apart before.

 

[blakmambo]

"Anyway, I didn't see any "needle bearings" in there,"
Have a look at any of the on-line parts fiches, such as here item 6 is the needle bearing...........

Youd have to remove the rubber seal on the brake end (#4) and then there is a threaded nut of some type (#3) that holds the spacers in the wheel hub. Adjuster nut may require a special wrench? Havent ever taken one apart before.

Ah, yeah, that would require a special level of enthusiasm . . . this was a minimalist intervention to simply maintain the status quo of keeping compressed air inside the tire in as few moves as possible . . . and keeping the potential for parts jumping out into the dirt and leaves to the fewest opportunities as possible. If I had a garage with a concrete floor, a lift, lighting, and air tools it might be a different story . . . than this one of futzing around on the ground without an extra set of hands and so forth . . . .

So, forewarned is forearmed, the next time there is a need to pull the wheel I'll see if I have the capacity to get into that inner, hidden wheel bearing, and slather the various proper colors of greases and lubes around on all the right places and lips, and such.

 

[mcatrophy]

Sounds good. Only comment, WD40 is neither a lubricant nor a rust preventative. Designed as a Water Dispersant, very good for cleaning stuff, even (to a limited extent) for removing rust, but shouldn't be left as a final layer. When dry, it will attract dirt and moisture that will cause rust long term.

I wouldn't panic about what you've done, though, the rear assembly is pretty bomb-proof. I'm sure it will survive until your next tyre change.

Final point, if I were you, I'd make sure the wheel speed sensor isn't seized. It can (and does) happen, particularly the front. It's preferable to take off the front one when removing the front wheel, but not essential, so if it won't budge, don't worry too much. Just a little easier if it will come out.

 

[blakmambo]

Sounds good. Only comment, WD40 is neither a lubricant nor a rust preventative. Designed as a Water Dispersant, very good for cleaning stuff, even (to a limited extent) for removing rust, but shouldn't be left as a final layer. When dry, it will attract dirt and moisture that will cause rust long term.
I wouldn't panic about what you've done, though, the rear assembly is pretty bomb-proof. I'm sure it will survive until your next tyre change.

Final point, if I were you, I'd make sure the wheel speed sensor isn't seized. It can (and does) happen, particularly the front. It's preferable to take off the front one when removing the front wheel, but not essential, so if it won't budge, don't worry too much. Just a little easier if it will come out.

@mcatrophy:

Yes!! SNAFU motorcycling all over again on the WD front . . . I come from that generation that sees WD40 as the single all-around does everything you need it to, whatever it is kinda stuff . . . rust dispersal agent, lube, frozen bath faucet breaker, the handy-man at one place I work uses it to lube squeaky hinges (wrong!!! but, apparently "right") . . . when in doubt just spray WD on it, wait a few minutes and then apply persuasion . . . . Only thing I can say in my defense is that living at the beach there is **always** water in the air that needs a dispersal agency . . . . Just like wheat, WD-40 is one of those staple items for the home/backyard mechanic . . . . : - ))

My olde moto mentor even used to talk about spraying the entire bike with WD-40, brake rotors even, for preventing rust and corrosion . . . which I never had the stones or money to do . . . .

So, having no other options at hand, as far as whatever the clear liquid that was used on the axle bolt . . . the ubiquitous WD was engaged into service; have to see how bad it is when the next tire or service interval shows up . . . it's all part of SNAFU motorcycling . . . .

I did check the wheel sensor item, which I think it was still able to rotate slightly forward and aft . . . so I don't think it is bound up . . . I didn't spray any WD on the sensor (just saying) . . . limited and "judicious" use of WD is my motto . . . . The only post-install concern/worry is whether or not the splines mated up properly . . . didn't see any data about how to "align the two dots" or markers of some sort to get the splines lined up; I just hefted it up and jiggled it around until it slid over up against the flange . . . hoping that there isn't enough play to allow them to "mis-thread" or what-have-you . . . . A ready to rock n roll with my moto gang this Saturday, the "SNAFU Riders" . . . name is copyrighted for those who were thinking of stealing it . . . dues are just $20 a year sent to "SNAFU [email protected]" . . . don't delay, new members get a small bottle of WD-40 as a gesture of enthusiasm for water dispersal/rust accumulation on key parts.

 

[Bounce]

In the 20 yard view of things, no "cheaters" or "persuaders" should be needed. It should all slip back together without any forcing.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Dude...Don't take anything apart to try to grease some sealed up needle bearing nobody even knows exists. Lube the axle SLIGHTLY and make sure there is moly on the gears. When you took the wheel off, everything that had lube is all you needed.

Don't make it more difficult than it needs to be. Simple stuff man!

 

[blakmambo]

In the 20 yard view of things, no "cheaters" or "persuaders" should be needed. It should all slip back together without any forcing.

@Bounce: Cool, none, other than WD-40 and O'Reilly's best moly lube, were used . . . it wasn't exactly "slip it in" but, "gentle twist" to get the threaded end of the axle back through the hub . . . .

Dude...Don't take anything apart to try to grease some sealed up needle bearing nobody even knows exists. Lube the axle SLIGHTLY and make sure there is moly on the gears. When you took the wheel off, everything that had lube is all you needed.
Don't make it more difficult than it needs to be. Simple stuff man!

@HZR: That is also my general principle . . . the KISS principle . . . if it ain't broke, don't look around for ways to screw it up further . . . then, as a "divine blessing" spray some WD-40 on it and bolt it up . . . dun deal . . . . Ahm a thinnin' it'll be OK . . . .

 

[Fred W]

I'm curious about these needle bearings that heretofore were relatively unknown. What do they actually do? How do they work?

But, considering the number of failures reported in the past (zero) I would never encourage anyone to disassemble the wheel hub to lubricate them.

 

[Geezer]

I'm curious about these needle bearings that heretofore were relatively unknown. What do they actually do? How do they work? But, considering the number of failures reported in the past (zero) I would never encourage anyone to disassemble the wheel hub to lubricate them.

I have never seen that particular bearing, but other needle bearings I have seen on the FJR were a set of needles encased in some sort or wax or heavy grease substance with no real cage holding them together. I would hesitate to use anything with a solvent on them. As long as they are in a place where they can't get contaminated I would leave them alone.

 

[Fred W]

My semi educated guess is that these needles just allow the cush drive to rotate (slightly). If/when they became crusty and totally seized up one might never even notice it. That doesn't mean that it wouldn't be a slightly smoother drive line with the designed cushioning. Might be worth investigating next time I have my rear wheel off.

 

[FJReady]

IIRC years ago someone here had a reason to replace the 3 rear wheel bearings and I was a little surprised by the '3'. And reportedly it is a summbitch to remove that inner one.

I was looking at the parts fiche a while later and confirmed there is indeed a 3rd rear wheel bearing, but I've never seen one in person. My 05 FJR at ~125K miles still has all the original wheel bearings.

I'm guessing that worrying about that bearing (any of them really) should be far down on the list of things to worry about. Use a little good mechanic best practices, like greasing the axles at assembly, and you should be fine.

 

[blakmambo]

My 05 FJR at ~125K miles still has all the original wheel bearings.
I'm guessing that worrying about that bearing (any of them really) should be far down on the list of things to worry about. Use a little good mechanic best practices, like greasing the axles at assembly, and you should be fine.

@FJReady:

Prolly that "Gen 1" has everything better, faster parts, longer lasting stuff . . . I'm already sensing that my Gen 2 parts are degrading as the WD-40 works its rust attraction and metal degradation powers . . . rust never sleeps and all that rot . . . and riding it will only accelerate that process as the WD gets thrown around inside the hub and the axle tunnel(s).

Why, why, why didn't I "grease my axle" on re-assembly . . . if only they had greased it from the factory then I might have gotten the idea that the axle should be greased prophylactically to fight back against the scourge of internal rust . . . . From the "outside" it will look fine, but inside the hub and slowly creeping up the axle . . . the black death of toxic rust . . . bringing an early demise to another Gen 2er. : - (((

 

[FJReady]

Why not pull the axle and lovingly caress that thing with some grease. No need to remove the brakes or ABS housing or anything. Back off the axle nut, crack the pinch bolt and slide out the axle. Lube it and put it back. Ten minutes= piece of mind for you.

And buy a decent 1/2" breaker bar and 1 1/16" socket (same as 27mm). I thought I saw you mention a 3/8" drive socket wrench above. Not really the right tool for this job.

 

[Bounce]

In the 20 yard view of things, no "cheaters" or "persuaders" should be needed. It should all slip back together without any forcing.

@Bounce: Cool, none, other than WD-40 and O'Reilly's best moly lube, were used . . . it wasn't exactly "slip it in" but, "gentle twist" to get the threaded end of the axle back through the hub . . . .

Dude...Don't take anything apart to try to grease some sealed up needle bearing nobody even knows exists. Lube the axle SLIGHTLY and make sure there is moly on the gears. When you took the wheel off, everything that had lube is all you needed.
Don't make it more difficult than it needs to be. Simple stuff man!

@HZR: That is also my general principle . . . the KISS principle . . . if it ain't broke, don't look around for ways to screw it up further . . . then, as a "divine blessing" spray some WD-40 on it and bolt it up . . . dun deal . . . . Ahm a thinnin' it'll be OK . . . .

Now you're just WD40 trolling.

 

[blakmambo]

Why not pull the axle and lovingly caress that thing with some grease. No need to remove the brakes or ABS housing or anything. Back off the axle nut, crack the pinch bolt and slide out the axle. Lube it and put it back. Ten minutes= piece of mind for you.
And buy a decent 1/2" breaker bar and 1 1/16" socket (same as 27mm). I thought I saw you mention a 3/8" drive socket wrench above. Not really the right tool for this job.

@FJReady: Good advice, on both fronts . . . but, I am "at peace" with it, it's "together" and the molecules are bonding thru the powers of rust . . . it's done for awhile, at least until I ride the new tire. But, yes, it would be nice to have a breaker bar and such . . . used to have a good range of auto tools, got stolen . . . it's an LA thing, so after replacing them a couple times I got stuff that wasn't worth stealing . . . . Right now I've got the 3/8 drive torque wrench, but it doesn't go to 90 . . . I think it only goes to 70 ft-lbs . . .