Valve adjustment

[WBill]

Dang thing still doesn't idle right, though it is a little more consistent after 1,000 miles. Used to start up at about 2K rpm till she warmed up, but now it starts below 1K. Guess there's still a little air in the cooling system. (?) WBill

Sounds like your mechanic screwed something up!

I have extended my valve check interval a little bit, but I will never stop doing them. That is bad if you ask me. I have had valves re-shimmed about 2/3 of the time during valve checks.

$600 PLUS parts. Ouch. What did that bring it to? $700-$750? And I thought mine was bad.

Aww, OK, I knew it sounded too good to be true. 26K miles is a pretty good interval, though.

Wonder what the mechanic screwed up. We both looked the engine over at the shop and didn't see any tubes off. At first, it didn't idle at all, then, and since, it has gotten incrementally better. Someone on this forum (sorry, I can't remember who) suggested a coolant sensor confused by air in the system, and that it would belch itself out. The mechanic did a coolant system flush while he was doing the valve check. WBill

 

[carlson_mn]

Since this thread got a bit of interest I thought I'd add that I did the job myself with a buddy and it was not hard. 10 out of 16 valve clearances were tight. Did it for the first time at 38,000 miles. Very glad I did it. Slightly more responsive engine and there is less valve clatter at idle. Because I didn't secure the chain near the crank sprocket, my chain skipped a tooth so it was way down on midrange power, so I had to re-do the whole job. I re-did the job in about 3 hours start to finish the 2nd time, including re-shimming another valve and checking all the others. Dannymax can tell you about the ease of the chain slacking down and moving a tooth on the crank sprocket . However, if the chain accidently moves on you, it will only move a tooth most likely, and it does not do any damage to the engine. In fact it runs fine and make 120hp according to Danny, just creates a flat spot in the mid-range basically. Not sure how much it would have to move to cause valve damage but more than is possible via an accidental slip on a valve adjustment.

The job does not require any fancy tools, just the right tools. A nice 1/4" adjustable socket set, #30 torx bit, and an inch-pounds torque ratchet - get 'em at Sears and be done with it. I re-used all the gaskets with some moly lithium grease on them per the dealers advice. Because of all that I have learned from this site I am willing to help anyone with any noob questions should they have them. Anyone local I will help you do this - can be done in the morning and ride by the afternoon.

Edit: In regards to having ten slightly tight clearances, I right the snot out of my FJR which probably does contribute to valve clearances straying from spec faster than others. I don't abuse it and am very smooth, but she sees redline multiple times every ride. Everything on the top of the engine looked new. Doesn't burn a drop of oil, no oddly ticking valves, - you can hear the cam chain a bit but for all I know that is normal and the dealer thinks it's fine although a bit noisier than a 2009 FJR they had on hand with low miles. I average 40 mpg in the city probably doing 50 wheelies per tank of gas and hitting 90-100mph on the way and from work each day. Love the bike.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

Had my second valve check done ...My mechanic told me there was no adjusting needed, and that he wondered why people even bothered with the job. He said he had only had to change the shims on factory new bikes that had been shipped a little tight. I will probably never have the job done again.

...I have extended my valve check interval a little bit, but I will never stop doing them. I have had valves re-shimmed about 2/3 of the time during valve checks.

At our Michigan Tech Day last month, we (Rayzerman19) did a valve check on my bike, an '04 with 76,000 miles on the clock. At that time, I had put about 32,000 on it since I got it and this was the first check done on it since I bought it, so I have no idea when / if the last check was performed.

6 valves were outta spec - 3 intake and 3 exhaust.

I just picked up mine at the shop after valve check...74,000 km (about 45,000 miles)and this is the first time any of those has been done. All valves with in spec.

I'm guessing that most shops won't change clearance shims unless the clearances are pretty far out of range.They'll make a change if it's a "no brainer" that something must be done but otherwise they'll leave it as is.

I really wonder about all these FJRs not needing valve re-shimming. Are dealers NOT really doing a good job because they don't wan't to tear it down any further? Or is my guy making up work on mine (and other's) FJRs.????I know that frequently they don't need adjusting, but so little of them? So infrequently? That has certainly not been my experience nor a few others I know.

(Depending on what your mechanic's definition of 'fine' is.)

I don't trust your mechanic.

@ 29k my '07 valves were w/in spec@27k my buddies '07 was in spec as well

Were they in the middle of spec? Near the edge?At those mileages I am not completely surprised they were within spec, but as you go up...........

...I did the job myself with a buddy ...10 out of 16 valve clearances were tight.Edit: In regards to having ten slightly tight clearances, I right the snot out of my FJR which probably does contribute to valve clearances straying from spec faster than others.

The poppet-valves on modern (DOHC) engines don't go 'out of adjustment' very often -- if at all. US Govt. EPA emission mandates for the past couple decades have ordered manufacturers (cars) to guarantee compliance for 50K & 100K miles. These rules have forced engine manufacturers to get really serious about valve and valve-seat metallurgy. Many engines have hundreds of thousands of miles of use with absolutely no (zero) valve adjustment.

Not saying that it's not a good idea to know your valve clearances -- 'knowledge is power'. They may not be perfectly correct when new (unusual) or, may have "settled in" after a few thousand miles? Once in correct adjustment, though, they tend to stay that way for an awfully long time.

In fact, I've owned motorcycles and cars (Yamaha and GM) for which there were no valve adjustment shims available (true, they were not-yet-popular sizes) at dealers in the state (and nearby states) -- and I called all around. They had to be ordered from the parts warehouse (apparently, no one was adjusting...?)

One "grey area" is: what someone determines as 'fine' or 'in spec'. Many shop mechanics will make that determination "literally" -- if a 6 (thickness gauge) will go and a 10 won't (inlet) IT'S IN SPEC. Many a home tuner will try to change shims to get the clearance into a middle, 'happy zone', area.

Another is: the clearances allowed. In both the inlet and exhaust clearances, Yamaha allows 3~4 thousandths leeway and provides (stock) adjustment shims in 2 thousandths increments. So..., a shim can, almost, ALWAYS be changed and still be IN SPEC. (aftermarket 1 thousandth shims compound the issue).

I, personally, have had several modern engines that, if I had never made any (of the very small) valve-clearance adjustments, would've been 'in spec' after nearly 100K miles.

In the case of the FJR: if you'd saved all that was spent on valve adjustments over the years -- you could, then (if something untoward happened?), afford to have the cylinder head rebuilt (with decent valve-guides...)

 

[Dr. Bones]

I just picked up mine at the shop after valve check, throttle body sync and fork oil change.

I have 74,000 km (about 45,000 miles)and this is the first time any of those has been done. All valves with in spec. I spoke to the mechanic and he said the throttle body syc was fine too with no adjustment necesssary. I was a bit flabergasted that everything was ok. Does this sound normal? I don't beat on her but it does get to redline occasionally.

The fork oil change presented quite a problem as they had troubles getting the seals out. He said something about over filling and then using a press to pop them out. That's appearantly how Yamaha says to do it.

One of the fork shims got buggered up and they had to order new ones. They used Yamaha M1(?) fork oil which seems to be a bit unusual and had to be ordered too. The clip on one of the fork guards got broken and they will replace it for free later as it's back ordered.

The good news is the bike runs fine after I got it back. Luckly the weather has been rainy lately as they had it a week and a half doing it.

I don't find that normal. A TBS that isn't off at all after that many miles? When I received a new to me 30,000 mile FJR I did a TBS and it was 1cm off on several cylinders, then 4,000 miles later off by 1/2 to 3/4 of a cm, worth resetting. It ran smoother both times.

I haven't attempted a valve check yet, learning up on it. I'm probably due at 40,000 miles, but the previous owner mentioned it had been done.

The shop sure broke/damaged/had to order alot of stuff for a shop that knows what they're doing! TBS are ridiclously simple and you can throw in your own sparkplugs at that point.

Dang thing still doesn't idle right, though it is a little more consistent after 1,000 miles. Used to start up at about 2K rpm till she warmed up, but now it starts below 1K. Guess there's still a little air in the cooling system. (?) WBill

Sounds like your mechanic screwed something up!

I have extended my valve check interval a little bit, but I will never stop doing them. That is bad if you ask me. I have had valves re-shimmed about 2/3 of the time during valve checks.

$600 PLUS parts. Ouch. What did that bring it to? $700-$750? And I thought mine was bad.

Aww, OK, I knew it sounded too good to be true. 26K miles is a pretty good interval, though.

Wonder what the mechanic screwed up. We both looked the engine over at the shop and didn't see any tubes off. At first, it didn't idle at all, then, and since, it has gotten incrementally better. Someone on this forum (sorry, I can't remember who) suggested a coolant sensor confused by air in the system, and that it would belch itself out. The mechanic did a coolant system flush while he was doing the valve check. WBill

What about the idle screw? Did they mess with that?

 

[WBill]

I just picked up mine at the shop after valve check, throttle body sync and fork oil change.

I have 74,000 km (about 45,000 miles)and this is the first time any of those has been done. All valves with in spec. I spoke to the mechanic and he said the throttle body syc was fine too with no adjustment necesssary. I was a bit flabergasted that everything was ok. Does this sound normal? I don't beat on her but it does get to redline occasionally.

The fork oil change presented quite a problem as they had troubles getting the seals out. He said something about over filling and then using a press to pop them out. That's appearantly how Yamaha says to do it.

One of the fork shims got buggered up and they had to order new ones. They used Yamaha M1(?) fork oil which seems to be a bit unusual and had to be ordered too. The clip on one of the fork guards got broken and they will replace it for free later as it's back ordered.

The good news is the bike runs fine after I got it back. Luckly the weather has been rainy lately as they had it a week and a half doing it.

I don't find that normal. A TBS that isn't off at all after that many miles? When I received a new to me 30,000 mile FJR I did a TBS and it was 1cm off on several cylinders, then 4,000 miles later off by 1/2 to 3/4 of a cm, worth resetting. It ran smoother both times.

I haven't attempted a valve check yet, learning up on it. I'm probably due at 40,000 miles, but the previous owner mentioned it had been done.

The shop sure broke/damaged/had to order alot of stuff for a shop that knows what they're doing! TBS are ridiclously simple and you can throw in your own sparkplugs at that point.

Dang thing still doesn't idle right, though it is a little more consistent after 1,000 miles. Used to start up at about 2K rpm till she warmed up, but now it starts below 1K. Guess there's still a little air in the cooling system. (?) WBill

Sounds like your mechanic screwed something up!

I have extended my valve check interval a little bit, but I will never stop doing them. That is bad if you ask me. I have had valves re-shimmed about 2/3 of the time during valve checks.

$600 PLUS parts. Ouch. What did that bring it to? $700-$750? And I thought mine was bad.

Aww, OK, I knew it sounded too good to be true. 26K miles is a pretty good interval, though.

Wonder what the mechanic screwed up. We both looked the engine over at the shop and didn't see any tubes off. At first, it didn't idle at all, then, and since, it has gotten incrementally better. Someone on this forum (sorry, I can't remember who) suggested a coolant sensor confused by air in the system, and that it would belch itself out. The mechanic did a coolant system flush while he was doing the valve check. WBill

What about the idle screw? Did they mess with that?

Idle screw? Ha! We turned the idle revs up so it would run when I left the shop, and I've been messing with the idle screw ever since. First it idled too slow (<1K rpm), then too fast (>1.5K rpm). I just about have it right now, stopping now and again to adjust it. Still, it's not the same as it was before the Valve Check/CCT change/Coolant Change. Thanks for asking, WBill

 

[TILAM]

I just picked up mine at the shop after valve check, throttle body sync and fork oil change.

I have 74,000 km (about 45,000 miles)and this is the first time any of those has been done. All valves with in spec. I spoke to the mechanic and he said the throttle body syc was fine too with no adjustment necesssary. I was a bit flabergasted that everything was ok. Does this sound normal? I don't beat on her but it does get to redline occasionally.

The fork oil change presented quite a problem as they had troubles getting the seals out. He said something about over filling and then using a press to pop them out. That's appearantly how Yamaha says to do it.

One of the fork shims got buggered up and they had to order new ones. They used Yamaha M1(?) fork oil which seems to be a bit unusual and had to be ordered too. The clip on one of the fork guards got broken and they will replace it for free later as it's back ordered.

The good news is the bike runs fine after I got it back. Luckly the weather has been rainy lately as they had it a week and a half doing it.

It was a Yamaha dealer but only for the last year or so. Honda and Kawasaki for many years. Might be the first FJR they have seriously serviced. The mechanic worked at the local Yamaha shop before it closed. He remembered me from when I bought my bike there.

Everything seems to be tightened up properly.

I too am a bit suspect of the throttle bodies still being in sync. It seems to run fine,idle is steady and smooth. So who knows.

If I had the sync tool I would check it myself. I'm not afraid to go under the tank regularly.

 

[Fred W]

The fact that the bike now idles cold at less than the normal warm idle speed of 1100 rpm (when it should be on fast idle) suggests that the shop definitely screwed something up. My first guess is that he left off one of the vacuum caps when he did the TBS. That would create a leaner than normal condition which would drastically effect the cold idle. Another possibility is that they allowed the cam chain to skip a tooth on the crank sprocket when they did the CCT.

 

[Constant Mesh]

Letting more air in would make it idle faster. Although just one vacuum cap off would likely just cause a stumbling idle with not that big of an effect on overall idle speed.

The cold high idle system just lets more air in bypassing the throttle valves. More air equates to a lower vacuum at the MAP sensor which is interpreted as opening the throttle valves a bit.

I wonder if the coolant temp sensor is working properly? Good readout on the screen?

Most likely a cam chain slippage when installing the tensioner.

It's amazing how things can get bollixed so completely when letting a tech crawl all over your bike. How could he release it to the customer with the idle so ragged?

"Do no harm" is not well understood at too many shops.

 

[WBill]

Letting more air in would make it idle faster. Although just one vacuum cap off would likely just cause a stumbling idle with not that big of an effect on overall idle speed.

The cold high idle system just lets more air in bypassing the throttle valves. More air equates to a lower vacuum at the MAP sensor which is interpreted as opening the throttle valves a bit.

I wonder if the coolant temp sensor is working properly? Good readout on the screen?

Most likely a cam chain slippage when installing the tensioner.

It's amazing how things can get bollixed so completely when letting a tech crawl all over your bike. How could he release it to the customer with the idle so ragged?

"Do no harm" is not well understood at too many shops.

Would it even run with a one-tooth-off cam chain? My tech would be good for it, but I want to be sure before I ask him to check it out. WBill

 

[SkooterG]

The fact that the bike now idles cold at less than the normal warm idle speed of 1100 rpm (when it should be on fast idle) suggests that the shop definitely screwed something up. My first guess is that he left off one of the vacuum caps when he did the TBS.

I mistakenly left a cap off once after a TBS, and the whole bike ran like crap. Especially at idle, and even at RPM. Had difficulty even starting it. It was really rough like it was running on two cylinders. D'oh!

The cold high idle system just lets more air in bypassing the throttle valves. More air equates to a lower vacuum at the MAP sensor which is interpreted as opening the throttle valves a bit.

I ain't for sure on this, but am fairly positive that the cold fast idle system lets more air in by actually opening the throttle valves/butterflys. As the engine warms, coolant is routed to the fast idle system which actuates somethin mechanical to gradually close them again. I think.

I really doubt it's a skipped cam chain tooth or even a sensor. I think it has something to do with the cooling system - air being a possiblity but doubtful, or something directly with the fast idle system though I don't know why that would have been messed with at all.

Problem is, it could be anything at this point. The million $$$ question is what did he touch/fix/mess with when performing the maintenace.

 

[WBill]

The fact that the bike now idles cold at less than the normal warm idle speed of 1100 rpm (when it should be on fast idle) suggests that the shop definitely screwed something up. My first guess is that he left off one of the vacuum caps when he did the TBS.

I mistakenly left a cap off once after a TBS, and the whole bike ran like crap. Especially at idle, and even at RPM. Had difficulty even starting it. It was really rough like it was running on two cylinders. D'oh!

The cold high idle system just lets more air in bypassing the throttle valves. More air equates to a lower vacuum at the MAP sensor which is interpreted as opening the throttle valves a bit.

I ain't for sure on this, but am fairly positive that the cold fast idle system lets more air in by actually opening the throttle valves/butterflys. As the engine warms, coolant is routed to the fast idle system which actuates somethin mechanical to gradually close them again. I think.

I really doubt it's a skipped cam chain tooth or even a sensor. I think it has something to do with the cooling system - air being a possiblity but doubtful, or something directly with the fast idle system though I don't know why that would have been messed with at all.

Problem is, it could be anything at this point. The million $$$ question is what did he touch/fix/mess with when performing the maintenace.

This is getting more and more interesting; to think that a little thing like the cooling system would affect the idle. I reached in and popped the cap off the coolant expansion reservoir after a long hot ride, just to see if there were any air pressure differential: no obvious air sounds. It would be reassuring to know that the cam chain was not one-tooth-off before my June long trip. WBill

 

[Fred W]

To answer some prior questions:

Will it even run with the cam chain one tooth off? Yes. There are many documented cases of this happening. The symptoms of being off one tooth would vary depending on whether the chain skipped forward or backward. I can envision the idle being effected in the event that the valve timing was advanced.

In either case there is enough "clearance" to not cause piston/valve interference with just being off one tooth (a very good thing). More than one tooth could be fatal to the valve train. Which is also why many of us advocate removing the timing chain cover on the right side of the engine and ty-wrapping or otherwise securing the chain tension (with a 10mm 1/4" socket jammed in) whenever replacing the CCT to prevent this from happening.

The wax motor high idle actuator does not move the main throttle plates. It moves an actuator bar, which retracts the small pistons in each throttle body, which in turn progressively opens up air passages up that bypass the throttle plates. However these are carefully metered air passages, and add air into each cylinder evenly. A vacuum leak as large as a missing vacuum cap occurring in just one intake tube would result in a lumpy idle, and lower idle speed due to the leanness in that one cylinder. The total TB vacuum would be lowered some, but not as much as in the one cylinder. At least that has been my experience.

Coolant air bubbles could cause the engine temp sensor to register incorrectly if it was in air (not sure where in the coolant that sensor is located). This seems like it would be unlikely to cause a lower high-idle condition since, even if in an air bubble, the sensor would register ambient air temp when the engine is stone cold. Intuitively, a temp sensor in an air bubble would fail to register an increase in temp as the engine warms up, not the reverse.

Based on the symptoms described and the services performed, including the fact the tech said he didn't adjust the TBS air screws, I'm (unfortunately) inclined to go with the timing chain being off, but would check the vacuum caps first because it is far easier to check. If he had adjusted the TBS I'd look to see if he screwed up those air screws first.

 

[dannymax]

Since this thread got a bit of interest I thought I'd add that I did the job myself with a buddy and it was not hard. 10 out of 16 valve clearances were tight. Did it for the first time at 38,000 miles. Very glad I did it. Slightly more responsive engine and there is less valve clatter at idle. Because I didn't secure the chain near the crank sprocket, my chain skipped a tooth so it was way down on midrange power, so I had to re-do the whole job. I re-did the job in about 3 hours start to finish the 2nd time, including re-shimming another valve and checking all the others. Dannymax can tell you about the ease of the chain slacking down and moving a tooth on the crank sprocket . However, if the chain accidently moves on you, it will only move a tooth most likely, and it does not do any damage to the engine. In fact it runs fine and make 120hp according to Danny, just creates a flat spot in the mid-range basically. Not sure how much it would have to move to cause valve damage but more than is possible via an accidental slip on a valve adjustment.

The job does not require any fancy tools, just the right tools. A nice 1/4" adjustable socket set, #30 torx bit, and an inch-pounds torque ratchet - get 'em at Sears and be done with it. I re-used all the gaskets with some moly lithium grease on them per the dealers advice. Because of all that I have learned from this site I am willing to help anyone with any noob questions should they have them. Anyone local I will help you do this - can be done in the morning and ride by the afternoon.

Edit: In regards to having ten slightly tight clearances, I right the snot out of my FJR which probably does contribute to valve clearances straying from spec faster than others. I don't abuse it and am very smooth, but she sees redline multiple times every ride. Everything on the top of the engine looked new. Doesn't burn a drop of oil, no oddly ticking valves, - you can hear the cam chain a bit but for all I know that is normal and the dealer thinks it's fine although a bit noisier than a 2009 FJR they had on hand with low miles. I average 40 mpg in the city probably doing 50 wheelies per tank of gas and hitting 90-100mph on the way and from work each day. Love the bike.

If I had bought my '05 with the crank off one tooth it's likely that I'd have never known the difference....it's really hard to tell (at least with my bike it was). Even a dyno run didn't really show anything obvious.

Valves & CCT replacement aren't that difficult to DIY. I'll definitely be doing my own next time (long boring story there!) but think I'll perform these steps first....even before getting out the feelers gauge!

- Remove the valve cover, line up the cam timing marks and cable tie each cam sprocket to the CC

- Remove the timing cover (verify..of course!..that the timing mark lines up with the case joint) and cable tie the crank sprocket to the CC

- THEN start mic'ing the cam lobes!

If you do have to loosen the CCT to move a cam the chain/sprockets should go back in place without a great deal of hassle. (Unless I forgot somethin'!)

It appears that it is far easier to skip a than not...overkill is a good thing here, IMO.

PS: Carlson drives like a maniac...good thing he has a Gen-I!! :lol:

 

[dannymax]

Had my second valve check done about 1,000 mile ago,and it cost about $600.00 plus parts. The bike is an '05 model.

My mechanic told me there was no adjusting needed, and that he wondered why people even bothered with the job. He said he had only had to change the shims on factory new bikes that had been shipped a little tight. I will probably never have the job done again. This time, though, I used the opportunity to swap out the CCT for the new style, the OEM one having begun to rattle.

Dang thing still doesn't idle right, though it is a little more consistent after 1,000 miles. Used to start up at about 2K rpm till she warmed up, but now it starts below 1K. Guess there's still a little air in the cooling system. (?) WBill

Bill, something eerily similar here to my recent valve check/CCT swap! One of the symptoms of the skipped tooth on my '05 was a lower idle! I never changed the idle screw and after getting the valves timed properly I got back my lost idle RPM's....think maybe 300 or so.

Can you tell if they removed the timing cover to access the crank sprocket? If they didn't maybe you have a skipped tooth also.

Sure don't agree with your mechanic on the 'no valve check needed'....stuff wears out man, valve seats wear up, stems push harder on shims, shim & cam lobe tolerance shrinks, valves don't open all the way, performance goes off the rail....it happens!

I reached in and popped the cap off the coolant expansion reservoir after a long hot ride, just to see if there were any air pressure differential

Bill...there is no pressure in the reservoir, pressure is built up under the radiator cap and confined to the radiator and cooling system piping. The radiator cap has a built in pressure release if it gets too high....that will drain into the reservoir.

 

[John d]

I just picked up mine at the shop after valve check, throttle body sync and fork oil change.

I have 74,000 km (about 45,000 miles)and this is the first time any of those has been done. All valves with in spec. I spoke to the mechanic and he said the throttle body syc was fine too with no adjustment necesssary. I was a bit flabergasted that everything was ok. Does this sound normal? I don't beat on her but it does get to redline occasionally.

The fork oil change presented quite a problem as they had troubles getting the seals out. He said something about over filling and then using a press to pop them out. That's appearantly how Yamaha says to do it.

One of the fork shims got buggered up and they had to order new ones. They used Yamaha M1(?) fork oil which seems to be a bit unusual and had to be ordered too. The clip on one of the fork guards got broken and they will replace it for free later as it's back ordered.

The good news is the bike runs fine after I got it back. Luckly the weather has been rainy lately as they had it a week and a half doing it.

Bring your bike over to my place and I'll check your TBS to see what your dealer calls close enough.

 

[Fred W]

I'll definitely be doing my own next time (long boring story there!) but think I'll perform these steps first....even before getting out the feelers gauge!

- Remove the valve cover, line up the cam timing marks and cable tie each cam sprocket to the CC

- Remove the timing cover (verify..of course!..that the timing mark lines up with the case joint) and cable tie the crank sprocket to the CC

- THEN start mic'ing the cam lobes!

If you do have to loosen the CCT to move a cam the chain/sprockets should go back in place without a great deal of hassle. (Unless I forgot somethin'!)

Danny,

Regarding that plan, you have to turn the engine over to measure the valve clearances, so you'll have to wait to secure that chain until aftrer you've determined that you need to make an adjustment. If no adjustent is needed, no need to secure the chain.

But if you do need to remove the CCT, either for a shim change or because the old CCT needs to be updated, then definitely do exactly what you say above to secure the chain timing.

 

[dannymax]

I'll definitely be doing my own next time (long boring story there!) but think I'll perform these steps first....even before getting out the feelers gauge!

- Remove the valve cover, line up the cam timing marks and cable tie each cam sprocket to the CC

- Remove the timing cover (verify..of course!..that the timing mark lines up with the case joint) and cable tie the crank sprocket to the CC

- THEN start mic'ing the cam lobes!

If you do have to loosen the CCT to move a cam the chain/sprockets should go back in place without a great deal of hassle. (Unless I forgot somethin'!)

Danny,

Regarding that plan, you have to turn the engine over to measure the valve clearances, so you'll have to wait to secure that chain until aftrer you've determined that you need to make an adjustment. If no adjustent is needed, no need to secure the chain.

But if you do need to remove the CCT, either for a shim change or because the old CCT needs to be updated, then definitely do exactly what you say above to secure the chain timing.

Thanks Fred!! Waaay deep down I had the sneaky feeling that I was overlooking something important....DOH!! :confusedsmiley:

Thanks for the correction....I sure wouldn't make any friends with that advice! :black eye:

 

[WBill]

Had my second valve check done about 1,000 mile ago,and it cost about $600.00 plus parts. The bike is an '05 model.

My mechanic told me there was no adjusting needed, and that he wondered why people even bothered with the job. He said he had only had to change the shims on factory new bikes that had been shipped a little tight. I will probably never have the job done again. This time, though, I used the opportunity to swap out the CCT for the new style, the OEM one having begun to rattle.

Dang thing still doesn't idle right, though it is a little more consistent after 1,000 miles. Used to start up at about 2K rpm till she warmed up, but now it starts below 1K. Guess there's still a little air in the cooling system. (?) WBill

Bill, something eerily similar here to my recent valve check/CCT swap! One of the symptoms of the skipped tooth on my '05 was a lower idle! I never changed the idle screw and after getting the valves timed properly I got back my lost idle RPM's....think maybe 300 or so.

Can you tell if they removed the timing cover to access the crank sprocket? If they didn't maybe you have a skipped tooth also.

Sure don't agree with your mechanic on the 'no valve check needed'....stuff wears out man, valve seats wear up, stems push harder on shims, shim & cam lobe tolerance shrinks, valves don't open all the way, performance goes off the rail....it happens!

I reached in and popped the cap off the coolant expansion reservoir after a long hot ride, just to see if there were any air pressure differential

Bill...there is no pressure in the reservoir, pressure is built up under the radiator cap and confined to the radiator and cooling system piping. The radiator cap has a built in pressure release if it gets too high....that will drain into the reservoir.

Looks like I'm going to have to take her back over to the shop and get them to check the valve timing unless I find a TB cap off. Rats!

Thanks for the replies, WBill

 

[SkooterG]

Just came across a craigslist ad for an 04 FJR in Tooele, UT. In the narrative was the following apllicable passage (my bold):

71000 mi on bike, Newer motor only has 10000 mi. all reciepts, professionally installed at South Valley Motorsports of Salt Lake. Previous owner did not do a valve adjustment ever!(normally due at 26000 mi) So it ate a valve on the old engine,(was actually still running!) hence the new engine

Ignore valve inspections at your own peril.

 

[WBill]

Just came across a craigslist ad for an 04 FJR in Tooele, UT. In the narrative was the following apllicable passage (my bold):

71000 mi on bike, Newer motor only has 10000 mi. all reciepts, professionally installed at South Valley Motorsports of Salt Lake. Previous owner did not do a valve adjustment ever!(normally due at 26000 mi) So it ate a valve on the old engine,(was actually still running!) hence the new engine

Ignore valve inspections at your own peril.

I'm taking mine back over to the shop next week to have it checked out. Thanks for all the input! WBill