Windscreen adjustment motor troubleshooting

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cjskach

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My windscreen adjustment died, I now have it off the bike and would like to try to connect an external power supply to it just to verify the motor is truly dead. Has anyone done this. I haven't got a chance to look at the schematic yet but I see two switches that are at the end of the arms (assume these let the control know when it is all the way up or down) and another plug for power and the up down switch from the handlebar. If anybody has any hints on troubleshooting this, it would be appreciated. 06 GenII.

 
I would have thought easier to diagnose while on the bike. With six connections plus two for the automatic retract loop ...

Light green: to switch, ground to move up

Sky blue/white: to switch, ground to move up down

Red: 12V unswitched

Brown: Fused ignition

Sky blue: Positive to neutral light

Black: Ground

Red/black, Black/red: Auto-retract loop

Edited to correct typo, thanks to ionbeam.

 
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Dang, that MCA dooode be on it!
punk.gif


 
I would have thought easier to diagnose while on the bike. With six connections plus two for the automatic retract loop ...
Light green: to switch, ground to move up

Sky blue/white: to switch, ground to move up

Red: 12V unswitched

Brown: Fused ignition

Sky blue: Positive to neutral light

Black: Ground

Red/black, Black/red: Auto-retract loop
No downer? (Don't have a schematic handy to check...)

 
Thanx mcatrophy, I had to remove the cowling anyway for other reasons so now I need to see if I can get the broken arm replaced but before I order it I need to see if I need to replace the whole unit at ~ $500.00 :-( Any idea if just the motor can be replaced??

So to try it I would need

+12v to Red, Brown & SkyBlue?

Ground Black and try grounding light green to move it up?

 
I would have thought easier to diagnose while on the bike. With six connections plus two for the automatic retract loop ...
Light green: to switch, ground to move up

Sky blue/white: to switch, ground to move up

Red: 12V unswitched

Brown: Fused ignition

Sky blue: Positive to neutral light

Black: Ground

Red/black, Black/red: Auto-retract loop
No downer? (Don't have a schematic handy to check...)
Copy and paste then edit - or not
fool.gif
.

Sky blue/white: to switch, ground to move down

 
Thanx mcatrophy, I had to remove the cowling anyway for other reasons so now I need to see if I can get the broken arm replaced but before I order it I need to see if I need to replace the whole unit at ~ $500.00 :-( Any idea if just the motor can be replaced??
So to try it I would need

+12v to Red, Brown & SkyBlue?

Ground Black and try grounding light green to move it up?
Don't put +12 to Sky blue, that feeds the neutral light from the screen system when either the ignition is on or the auto-retract is functioning.

 
Thanx, all, will try it tomorrow. I have lots of current on my PS so it should be a good test. If motor is fried I wonder what good is the fuse except for a short somewhere I guess?

 
Thanx, all, will try it tomorrow. I have lots of current on my PS so it should be a good test. If motor is fried I wonder what good is the fuse except for a short somewhere I guess?
It shares a 15A fuse, so plenty of power available to fry stuff. The fuses are there to protect the wiring, not the components.

 
Toasted Gen II windscreen motors is so rare as to be almost unheard of. However, the windscreens movement mechanism is known to not uncommonly jam on the rubber strips. I would be very surprised if the motor was bad. How many miles has the windscreen motor experience?

 
ionbeam, it failed when I tried to move it after an accident not knowing that one of the guide arms was broken. Although it is sitting in the low position and not stuck in the middle and everything looks normal except for the broken arm link piece (3P6-2833P-00-00). I think the real reason the link arm broke was because the plastic screws that hold the windscreen on were replaced by metal screws at some point, so instead of those plastic parts breaking away the adjustment mechanism broke instead. So if any of you have replaced those plastic screws, beware...

 
Ahh, that explains why you had to remove the cowling anyway... As long as there isn't physical damage and the Rube Goldberg pulley/stringie thingie is intact it should still be good. I'm thinking this is going to be one expense you will be spared. Good luck with getting everything sorted out!

 
Ok, looked at mine and I don't have a skyblue/white cable mine is brown red, when I short this to gnd I hear a buzzing but no motor movement. If I grnd the lt green, nothing happens. I can hear a relay when I just connect power to Red and Brown and gnd to black. I notice the motor itself is working if I connect it direct to power, so it seems to be the switching circuit. Also when I was able to move the arms driving the motor directly and then connecting just the power it auto retracted, so was wondering on the red/black black/red connector how is it connected to the power or is it shorted on the bike?

 
Ok, looked at mine and I don't have a skyblue/white cable mine is brown red, when I short this to gnd I hear a buzzing but no motor movement. If I grnd the lt green, nothing happens. I can hear a relay when I just connect power to Red and Brown and gnd to black. I notice the motor itself is working if I connect it direct to power, so it seems to be the switching circuit. Also when I was able to move the arms driving the motor directly and then connecting just the power it auto retracted, so was wondering on the red/black black/red connector how is it connected to the power or is it shorted on the bike?
Colours I gave are those on the loom side of the connector, sorry about that, I was using a black-and-white diagram that only showed the loom side. A coloured schematic shows some different colours on the motor side, I add these:

Loom Motor

Light green Light green: to switch, ground to move up

Sky blue/white Sky blue: to switch, ground to move down

Red/green Red: 12V unswitched

Brown Brown: Fused ignition

Sky blue Brown/red: Positive to neutral light

Black Black: Ground

Red/black, Black/red Red/black, Black/red: Auto-retract loop

So, on the moter side:

Connect Red to +12 (permanent on the bike);

Black to 0V;

Brown to +12 (ignition);

Connect light green to ground to move up

Connect sky blue to ground to move down;

The red/black and black/red should only connect to each other to give the auto-park option, leave open to inhibit. Don't connect to +12 or ground.

Sorry for any confusion.

 
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I finally looked at the schematic and the sky blue for the neutral light is actually brown red, so that one I am avoiding but so far grounding the light green or sky blue does nothing. Other issue I am seeing is if I leave the red/black - black/red disconnected it still does the auto retract if I have moved the arms by applying power direct to motor and then re-applying power to the main connectors. So in any case it seems the switch circuit is giving me the problem. I haven't seen a part number for just that circuit.

https://www.fjr1300.info/misc/FJR-wiring.pdf

 
Ok I figured it out. It was the stupid relay at the top end of the rail that was stuck in the shorted position. I un-jammed it and all works now as expected.

 
Ok I figured it out. It was the stupid relay at the top end of the rail that was stuck in the shorted position. I un-jammed it and all works now as expected.
Glad you found that, hope you can fix the broken arm.

Be aware the circuit diagram you reference is for a GenI FJR, the GenII FJRs don't have a fuse dedicated to the windscreen motor, colours and connections differ in some respects. [edit] As does much of the wiring.

 
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Ok I figured it out. It was the stupid relay at the top end of the rail that was stuck in the shorted position. I un-jammed it and all works now as expected.
Not trying to be pedantic but...........

When you say "stupid relay" do you mean the micro switch?

(I am aware of the micro switch but don't know about a relay).

 
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