YCC-S SH___46 code, related to high altitude ECU swap?

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Plates in your pics look ok to me, dry but ok. Shell Rotella should be good (no friction modifiers). Good luck.

 
Was a good thought / try, but the issue is still there. Normal moderately aggressive increase in RPMs is fine, but in any gear a full throttle twist will get jump the RPMS very quickly and the shift light comes on / stays on / prevents any further shifting :(

This was after:

1) Full oil / filter swap to Shell Rotella 15W/40

2) Clutch petrol cleaning followed by a 36 hour clutch soak (fibre disks and metal spacer disks)

3) Fibre disks all seemed to be in good condition, all had raised fibre areas on both sides of the disk.Metal spacer disks also seemed to be in good condition / no strange markings.

Any other ideas at this point? Or should I just forget about radical semi passing manuevers on the hwy / drag racing the bike at the track in the future?
rolleyes.gif


BTW, mcatrophy, can't say again how helpful your clutch soak writeup is - makes performing that a cinch. Thanks again.

Darin

Was a good thought / try, but the issue is still there. Normal moderately aggressive increase in RPMs is fine, but in any gear a full throttle twist will get jump the RPMS very quickly and the shift light comes on / stays on / prevents any further shifting :(

This was after:

1) Full oil / filter swap to Shell Rotella 15W/40

2) Clutch petrol cleaning followed by a 36 hour clutch soak (fibre disks and metal spacer disks)

3) Fibre disks all seemed to be in good condition, all had raised fibre areas on both sides of the disk.Metal spacer disks also seemed to be in good condition / no strange markings.

Any other ideas at this point? Or should I just forget about radical semi passing manuevers on the hwy / drag racing the bike at the track in the future?
rolleyes.gif


BTW, mcatrophy, can't say again how helpful your clutch soak writeup is - makes performing that a cinch. Thanks again.

Darin

 
The only other things I might suggest is a full clutch fluid bleed and replacement of the clutch spring plate. I haven't heard much in the way of problems with them on the FJR but this same design has been an issue on other Yamaha products - Roadstar and Venture for sure. Spring is fairly cheap and easy to replace.

Ross

 
The only other things I might suggest is a full clutch fluid bleed...
Yup, that was where I was going with my 'hot' question. Even though air normally causes clunky shifting because it prevents the clutch from fully disengaging it can also expand when hot and cause the clutch to slip. I had read here on the Forum that if you follow the FSM bleeding the clutch is a lot of work, but others indicate that you can still bleed the clutch without going through the extensive instructions in the FSM.

The text I had written but not posted with my hot question:

Just a thought -- The next time your engine is fully warmed up put a hose on the clutch bleed nipple and gently open the bleeder. If there is air in the system it can expand and slightly to highly pressurize the system resulting in clutch slip. The hose is to prevent spraying hydraulic fluid should it be pressurized.

Being a Gen I owner I have to ask you AE guys, where is the clutch hydraulic fluid reservoir? How do you bleed the clutch?

 
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Should not have been hot. Was bone cold when i started it, rode little over a mile in 50 degree weather and then tested it. There were a couple bars on the temp gauge if memory serves, but it certainly wasn't what i would consider a hot riding temp.
sad.png


Very strange...

 
Was a good thought / try, but the issue is still there. Normal moderately aggressive increase in RPMs is fine, but in any gear a full throttle twist will get jump the RPMS very quickly and the shift light comes on / stays on / prevents any further shifting
sad.png


This was after:

1) Full oil / filter swap to Shell Rotella 15W/40

2) Clutch petrol cleaning followed by a 36 hour clutch soak (fibre disks and metal spacer disks)

3) Fibre disks all seemed to be in good condition, all had raised fibre areas on both sides of the disk.Metal spacer disks also seemed to be in good condition / no strange markings.

Any other ideas at this point? Or should I just forget about radical semi passing manuevers on the hwy / drag racing the bike at the track in the future?
rolleyes.gif


BTW, mcatrophy, can't say again how helpful your clutch soak writeup is - makes performing that a cinch. Thanks again.

Darin
I take pictures so even I know what I'm doing! Glad they are of use, but I'm sorry your problem is not yet cured.

My thoughts are that there are only a few possible causes.

  1. Oil too slippery.
  2. Friction plates too ingrained with slippery oil.
  3. Spring plate too weak.
  4. Clutch fluid being pressurised.
  5. Too much torque from the engine (that's a bit facetious
    unsure.png
    )
We'll assume (1) is not the issue (although it might have started things off).

Don't know about (2), I've never had to clean out the old oil from the friction plates, but I suspect you did as good a job as you could. (Maybe try the "set light to it" method? Not a recommendation, I don't want to get sued.)

(3) I would have thought unlikely. As far as I'm aware there's no history of springs going weak. But it would be relatively cheap and easy to try (agreeing with RussKean above).

What's left is (4), as suggested by ionbeam. His "release any pressure when hot" sounds like a good plan, at least to see if that alleviates things. Just noticed your latest reply "it wasn't hot"; even so I think it might be a useful test just after you've experienced the issue.

Bleeding the clutch according to the Workshop Manual is a right pain, including removing the swinging arm. BUT, someone recently posted (sorry, can't find reference at the moment) to say he'd got round that by turning the ignition on and off. The swing-arm is removed to gain access to operate the clutch manually, but you can make the clutch operate by cycling the ignition (this exercises the clutch operation). Should make the job much easier.

 
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