2003 and 2006

[Auburn]

the 06, 07 will benefit greatly from a Ivan Performance ECU reflash (About $350).  Stops the jerky throttle, and smooths out the performance greatly.

 

[RossKean]

I did replace the K&N with a stock unit.  Have a charging issue or a bad battery.  Wouldn't start after gassing up.  Luckily close to home.  Haven't had the time to firgure it out yet...

By all means, charge the battery and get it load tested.  If it is weak cranking, there is a fair chance that it is the starter motor - especially if the problem occurs when it is hot.  The best check for that is to measure the starting current using a clamp-on DC Ammeter.  Should be below 80 amps.

When you say it wouldn't start was it cranking slowly, not cranking at all or cranking quickly but no start?  Could be three different issues.  I assume the engine was hot?

 

[tim ferrell]

Yes, I had been riding for over an hour.  When I went to re-start after gassing up, it didn't have enough juice to turn over the engine.  Just click click click, or a very sluggish almost turn over then a click, then, after a few tries, noting, not even a click.  Truth is the battery age and condition are unknown, and as documented elsewhere, there were other maintenance related issues with this bike. I am thinking getting a fresh battery and trying that first (?).

 

[RossKean]

I would do a nice slow charge.  Let the battery rest for a day or two to see if self-discharge is high and take the battery to be load tested.  No point in just replacing the battery if the starter motor is toast.  If you have access to a DC ammeter, check the starting current.

 

[tim ferrell]

OK.  Will do.  Thanks.

 

[tim ferrell]

Battery charges to 13.5 max, after a short day is at 13, then slowly looses charge to high 12s over the next two days, just sitting there, not hooked to anything.   Am going to work on the issue this weekend.

 

[Bounce]

Looks like you caught it before it left you stranded. Swap it. Clean all connections on both ends of the circuit. Look at any add-on electronics that have parasitic losses (memory, clock, etc.) that will drain the battery when the bike is sitting (with an eye toward what can be switched off completely without hassles and think about a physical switch if you can't just unplug it). Consider having a Battery Tender in your garage near where you park and plug it in each time you park for the day.

 

[Bounce]

Yes, I had been riding for over an hour.  When I went to re-start after gassing up, it didn't have enough juice to turn over the engine.  Just click click click, or a very sluggish almost turn over then a click, then, after a few tries, noting, not even a click.  Truth is the battery age and condition are unknown, and as documented elsewhere, there were other maintenance related issues with this bike. I am thinking getting a fresh battery and trying that first (?).

ALL Fjrs have a charging system with little reserve for accessories. It's easy to add enough that, when at idle or commuter-congestion speeds, the alternator can't keep up. Many add some form of volt meter so they can monitor it.

 

[kiwi]

For a 'First model' the 2003 (2002 in EU) was a marvel of engineering! Lightest and fastest (and prettiest) of all FJRs due to higher gearing and less weight. Very few 'tickers' otherwise NO issues. 

The 2006 was a Gen2 'First model' and many of the 'improvements' needed improvement. Throttle was jerky, Jbox recall, ABS added ...therefore heavier and slower but still works better than 90% of other bikes out there.  

I also own the 2013 Gen 3 'First model' and it's got everything improved (but the 6th gear) and everything works! Still heavier and maybe slower but new gearing and ride modes with heated grips and CC make me forget about everything but FUN!!!

Agree with your summary, the gen 1 to me was the best I have ever ridden, lighter, shorter wheel base, no linked breaks or ABS. With an Ohlins up grade I can honestly say I would trade my gen 2 tomorrow for a low mileage mint condition gen 1. 

I miss my old girl, of 15 years, big time. 

 

[tim ferrell]

Thanks for the input(s).  The battery slowly discharged to 12.8 on its own not attached to anything, then when installed, the gauges flashed, but turning on the key and hitting the start button yielded nothing, not even a burp, and the battery immediately went down to 10.8.  I am thinking the battery is toast, but will try it with a starter box just to see if proper voltage works everything as it should.

 

[RossKean]

Sounds like the battery to me.  A proper load test is definitive.   Easy start with a known "good" battery tells the same.

Still not a bad idea to check starting current with a clamp-on DC ammeter.  

 

[tim ferrell]

Where do you clamp it on?  I am an electronic moron...

 

[RossKean]

This is a clamp-on meter.  The wire is fed through the opening in the "loop".  No need to disconnect.

A standard volt/ohm/ammeter has to be hooked up in series to measure current and most of these are limited to 10 amperes.  On the one below, the loop opens when you hold the trigger and you pass the wire through the opening before releasing the trigger.  Can typically be used to measure much higher currents and no need to interrupt the circuit.  (Nothing special about this one - just the first that came up with a suitable image.)

Note:  Some of these will only measure amps if it is AC (but can measure AC or DC volts).  Others will measure both AC and DC amps - make sure you get one good for DC if you buy one!!  You can also get a "clamp-on" adapter for a regular meter. 

Link for clamp-on meter

Link for Clamp-on adapter

 

[SkooterG]

Your battery is toast.  Just replace the darned thing and all will be well again.

 

[tim ferrell]

Thank you both very much.  I appreciate it.