2013 FJR clutch engaged while starting

[Fred W]

The FJR's rear wheel spins when on the center stand on a cold start when it is in neutral, which takes the entire clutch out of the equation. And yes, they all do that.

 

[Wemi]

Hurrah

I just finished putting back my 2015ES. Took out the "old" clutch plates and pressure plate. 5 of nine were bone dry and full of dry dirt between the clutch material. I threw them all away. At 5000 miles!

I installed the Barnett Kevlar plates and their spring plate conversion kit. I soaked all the parts in oil for about 10 minutes and installed them dripping wet. I left the ninth plate behind the eight metal plate behind the wire in the bottom of the basket in place. Didn't want to mess with that wire since there didn't seem to be an easy way to get it out and they were only 4 months old anyway.

Put everything back together and WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE. The lever action requires only half the strength. The engagement is buttery smooth AND NO MORE STICKING. PERIOD.

Happy! Happy! Will put 1000 miles on it this weekend and report back...

 

[gclarkx]

Similar issue with my 2014 with 3400 miles that I bought for Christmas. If I start in 1st gear, the starter drags and tries to move the bike forward. If I start in Neutral, it clunks into 1st gear. I've found that if I start in Neutral, hold in the clutch for a 'bit' while blip the throttle, it will go into 1st smoothly.

 

[Wemi]

Similar issue with my 2014 with 3400 miles that I bought for Christmas. If I start in 1st gear, the starter drags and tries to move the bike forward. If I start in Neutral, it clunks into 1st gear. I've found that if I start in Neutral, hold in the clutch for a 'bit' while blip the throttle, it will go into 1st smoothly.

IMO, from my past experience, it's not " the starter dragging". It's the clutch plates sticking and not separating when you pull in the lever causing the bike to want to lurch forward until the plates "unlock" or separate. By starting it in neutral pulling the clutch in and blipping the throttle you are forcing the plates to separate or unlock. A so called "clutch soak", which is actually an oil bath will certainly help. But it is not a permanent fix. After soaking all the parts in oil and cleaning them the friction plates and the metal separator rings should move smoothly against each other, giving you proper clutch operation. The cheap pressure plate that Yamaha uses is actually effective albeit technically a few generations behind. IMHO that item needs to be brought into the 21st century with a proper spring controlled pressure plate like everyone else uses. Honda, BMW, KTM, etc. that alone will do a lot to improve clutch operation. The inexpensive fix is to clean and soak the OEM plates and replace the pressure plate with the newer design. Cost around 150 bucks. The finger type pressure plate used in the FJR is typically only used in dry, single plate clutches! Like Goldwings or older BMWs. BMW now only uses wet clutches in their bikes with the correct spring type pressure plate. Automobiles still use mostly dry clutches ( in non automatic type applications) and therefore the finger type pressure plates. They are much cheaper and less technically complex. Just my experiment.

 

[Steel_Gin]

Start in neutral, let it warm up to one bar, pull in the clutch, rev three or four times, release the clutch, pull it back in and it goes in to 1st nicely. Almost dropped mine a couple times before getting that suggestion. Very disappointed in Yamaha for allowing this to remain an issue for so many years, I was hoping it was addresses when the GenIIIs were rolled out but it looks like it hasn't been.

Hurrah
I just finished putting back my 2015ES. Took out the "old" clutch plates and pressure plate. 5 of nine were bone dry and full of dry dirt between the clutch material. I threw them all away. At 5000 miles!
I installed the Barnett Kevlar plates and their spring plate conversion kit. I soaked all the parts in oil for about 10 minutes and installed them dripping wet. I left the ninth plate behind the eight metal plate behind the wire in the bottom of the basket in place. Didn't want to mess with that wire since there didn't seem to be an easy way to get it out and they were only 4 months old anyway.
Put everything back together and WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE. The lever action requires only half the strength. The engagement is buttery smooth AND NO MORE STICKING. PERIOD.
Happy! Happy! Will put 1000 miles on it this weekend and report back...

Has anyone else installed this conversion kit and has 10,000 plus miles on it? I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on how well it's holding up. After my Y.E.S. has expired I'd consider doing something like this.

 

[Wemi]

Start in neutral, let it warm up to one bar, pull in the clutch, rev three or four times, release the clutch, pull it back in and it goes in to 1st nicely. Almost dropped mine a couple times before getting that suggestion. Very disappointed in Yamaha for allowing this to remain an issue for so many years, I was hoping it was addresses when the GenIIIs were rolled out but it looks like it hasn't been.

HurrahI just finished putting back my 2015ES. Took out the "old" clutch plates and pressure plate. 5 of nine were bone dry and full of dry dirt between the clutch material. I threw them all away. At 5000 miles!

I installed the Barnett Kevlar plates and their spring plate conversion kit. I soaked all the parts in oil for about 10 minutes and installed them dripping wet. I left the ninth plate behind the eight metal plate behind the wire in the bottom of the basket in place. Didn't want to mess with that wire since there didn't seem to be an easy way to get it out and they were only 4 months old anyway.

Put everything back together and WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE. The lever action requires only half the strength. The engagement is buttery smooth AND NO MORE STICKING. PERIOD.

Happy! Happy! Will put 1000 miles on it this weekend and report back...

Has anyone else installed this conversion kit and has 10,000 plus miles on it? I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on how well it's holding up. After my Y.E.S. has expired I'd consider doing something like this.

Well, put on around 900 miles on the weekend. Clutch performed flawlessly. Has a small oil leak at the cover, cause I thought I was clever and reused the old gasket. DON'T. Got a new one and found it to be strictly onetime. Put it in and all is good now. Had to take the canyon cages off a few times, but it's all back now, correctly torqued and well. Talked to Barnett a few times, since they are local to me and got some input on longevity. spring tension ( they have several options), etc. they seem nice, helpful and stAnd behind their product. Will keep you posted...

 

[Steel_Gin]

Start in neutral, let it warm up to one bar, pull in the clutch, rev three or four times, release the clutch, pull it back in and it goes in to 1st nicely. Almost dropped mine a couple times before getting that suggestion. Very disappointed in Yamaha for allowing this to remain an issue for so many years, I was hoping it was addresses when the GenIIIs were rolled out but it looks like it hasn't been.

Hurrah

I just finished putting back my 2015ES. Took out the "old" clutch plates and pressure plate. 5 of nine were bone dry and full of dry dirt between the clutch material. I threw them all away. At 5000 miles!

I installed the Barnett Kevlar plates and their spring plate conversion kit. I soaked all the parts in oil for about 10 minutes and installed them dripping wet. I left the ninth plate behind the eight metal plate behind the wire in the bottom of the basket in place. Didn't want to mess with that wire since there didn't seem to be an easy way to get it out and they were only 4 months old anyway.

Put everything back together and WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE. The lever action requires only half the strength. The engagement is buttery smooth AND NO MORE STICKING. PERIOD.

Happy! Happy! Will put 1000 miles on it this weekend and report back...

Has anyone else installed this conversion kit and has 10,000 plus miles on it? I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on how well it's holding up. After my Y.E.S. has expired I'd consider doing something like this.

Well, put on around 900 miles on the weekend. Clutch performed flawlessly. Has a small oil leak at the cover, cause I thought I was clever and reused the old gasket. DON'T. Got a new one and found it to be strictly onetime. Put it in and all is good now. Had to take the canyon cages off a few times, but it's all back now, correctly torqued and well. Talked to Barnett a few times, since they are local to me and got some input on longevity. spring tension ( they have several options), etc. they seem nice, helpful and stAnd behind their product. Will keep you posted...

Thanks for the update and keep us posted. Glad to hear the first 1000 went well.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

My 2014 does it notably. I have until November 2019 before it'll cost me anything except riding time. No change better or worse over the last 8K miles.

I have the same problem on my 2015ES. IT IS ANNOYING TO SAY THE LEAST. This is my 5th FJR and the first one to act that way. I always start the bike in first just to keep the crashing gear sound away when I would shift into first. The way I combat the sticky plates is to rock the bike forward or backwards while in gear, clutch pulled and off the center stand. After one or two stops it normally frees up and I than start the bike.
Mine may not be as bad as yours, but I follow the same procedure even when the bike is warm as at times it even sticks a bit then. Now at that time the starter would easily overcome the block, but I have gotten used to it.
Like you, I have tried all possible oils form Mobil1 to Motul V300, all to no avail. Since the bike requires JASO MA there are plenty of choices, none of which will make any difference. The MA standard specifically defines the friction coefficient and that is what Yamaha wants. MA2 which has a lower friction coefficient than MA will most likely result in clutch slippage at high loads, speak high speeds or acceleration. So nothing gained there.
I have contacted my selling dealer and they are more than willing to tears the. Ike apart and replace/soak, the clutch assembly. I am just a little unwilling to have them tear into a brand new ( now at a little over 5000 miles) motorcycle.
It is possible for this condition to either get better or worse with increasing mileage. So I am willing to wait and see what happens. As my warranty still lasts until November 2015, aim good until then...

Good luck and keep us posted as this concerns many of us. Maybe you find a solution..

 

[Wemi]

Start in neutral, let it warm up to one bar, pull in the clutch, rev three or four times, release the clutch, pull it back in and it goes in to 1st nicely. Almost dropped mine a couple times before getting that suggestion. Very disappointed in Yamaha for allowing this to remain an issue for so many years, I was hoping it was addresses when the GenIIIs were rolled out but it looks like it hasn't been.

Hurrah

I just finished putting back my 2015ES. Took out the "old" clutch plates and pressure plate. 5 of nine were bone dry and full of dry dirt between the clutch material. I threw them all away. At 5000 miles!

I installed the Barnett Kevlar plates and their spring plate conversion kit. I soaked all the parts in oil for about 10 minutes and installed them dripping wet. I left the ninth plate behind the eight metal plate behind the wire in the bottom of the basket in place. Didn't want to mess with that wire since there didn't seem to be an easy way to get it out and they were only 4 months old anyway.

Put everything back together and WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE. The lever action requires only half the strength. The engagement is buttery smooth AND NO MORE STICKING. PERIOD.

Happy! Happy! Will put 1000 miles on it this weekend and report back...

Has anyone else installed this conversion kit and has 10,000 plus miles on it? I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on how well it's holding up. After my Y.E.S. has expired I'd consider doing something like this.

Well, put on around 900 miles on the weekend. Clutch performed flawlessly. Has a small oil leak at the cover, cause I thought I was clever and reused the old gasket. DON'T. Got a new one and found it to be strictly onetime. Put it in and all is good now. Had to take the canyon cages off a few times, but it's all back now, correctly torqued and well. Talked to Barnett a few times, since they are local to me and got some input on longevity. spring tension ( they have several options), etc. they seem nice, helpful and stAnd behind their product. Will keep you posted...

Thanks for the update and keep us posted. Glad to hear the first 1000 went well.

Put another 3000 miles on the clutch system. Colorado thru the Mojave desert at 100+ degrees, thur Utah's 10,000ft passes. Everything still fine...

 

[Rickfjr]

I just purchased a 2014 FJR 1300ES last week with only 3000 km that was traded into a BMW dealership for a GS. It was originally purchased in April 2015 so it had been siting at the dealer for a while. The BMW dealership was happy to sell it to me cheap as I was buying it site unseen. I drove the bike home which took 5 hours and the clunking in to 1st gear and other gears did not go away. At times it was difficult to down shift. Once home I searched the internet for the problems and ended up on this site and read about the CLUTCH SOAK. Some say it is covered under warranty and this bike was still covered. I am not a fan of stealerships and could see my bike being taken away for a week as they mess with it. So I decided to do it myself after watching the video. It was very easy and only took me half an hour. The plates and disks were dry and covered with sticky substance which I cleaned with a tooth brush and oil. WOW what a difference. Smooth as silk now.

Thank you every one for this site and the Clutch Soak info.

Rick

 

[rbentnail]

I just purchased a 2014 FJR 1300ES last week with only 3000 km that was traded into a BMW dealership for a GS. It was originally purchased in April 2015 so it had been siting at the dealer for a while. The BMW dealership was happy to sell it to me cheap as I was buying it site unseen. I drove the bike home which took 5 hours and the clunking in to 1st gear and other gears did not go away. At times it was difficult to down shift. Once home I searched the internet for the problems and ended up on this site and read about the CLUTCH SOAK. Some say it is covered under warranty and this bike was still covered. I am not a fan of stealerships and could see my bike being taken away for a week as they mess with it. So I decided to do it myself after watching the video. It was very easy and only took me half an hour. The plates and disks were dry and covered with sticky substance which I cleaned with a tooth brush and oil. WOW what a difference. Smooth as silk now.
Thank you every one for this site and the Clutch Soak info.

Rick

Consider changing the oil? Regardless of how many miles I have on a given oil change the bike usually lets me know it's time for a change by increasing the difficulty in downshifting.

 

[Rickfjr]

I just purchased a 2014 FJR 1300ES last week with only 3000 km that was traded into a BMW dealership for a GS. It was originally purchased in April 2015 so it had been siting at the dealer for a while. The BMW dealership was happy to sell it to me cheap as I was buying it site unseen. I drove the bike home which took 5 hours and the clunking in to 1st gear and other gears did not go away. At times it was difficult to down shift. Once home I searched the internet for the problems and ended up on this site and read about the CLUTCH SOAK. Some say it is covered under warranty and this bike was still covered. I am not a fan of stealerships and could see my bike being taken away for a week as they mess with it. So I decided to do it myself after watching the video. It was very easy and only took me half an hour. The plates and disks were dry and covered with sticky substance which I cleaned with a tooth brush and oil. WOW what a difference. Smooth as silk now.
Thank you every one for this site and the Clutch Soak info.

Rick

Consider changing the oil? Regardless of how many miles I have on a given oil change the bike usually lets me know it's time for a change by increasing the difficulty in downshifting.

I am anal and the oil was changed as soon as I got the bike home. The dealer claimed the oil was changed at 1000 km but there was no proof of this as the maintenance trip meter was not reset. I went for a very short trip with the new oil but I did not notice any difference with the shifting. The sticky stuff on the clutch plates was the culprit.

 

[HotRodZilla]

There's a "maintenance trip meter?" I got hosed!

 

[mcatrophy]

There's a "maintenance trip meter?" I got hosed!

Get yourself a Gen III.

Not that my dealer bothered to reset mine when he did my services (but he did change the oil).

 

[HotRodZilla]

That's ok. I learned how to count 8n the 1st grade. Since I also know math, I know my '07 costs me $0. A new Gen3 will be at least s11k more than that.

 

[rwortman]

I was prepared to live with the sticky clutch on my new 2012 since it was a mostly minor annoyance. I have owned other bike that would stick overnight but this one sticks when you shut if off to get gas or put it in neutral at a light. Needed an oil change this weekend so I went ahead and pulled the clutch apart. As reported here, sticky stuff on the steel plates. Curiously, on only one side of each steel plate. Cleaned of the gunk and dunked (not soaked) the friction plates in engine oil and reassembled. Works great now. No sticking ever when left overnight. Should have done it at the first oil change. Surprised the factory leaves this crap on the plates. Maybe a few drag strip starts would burn it off? Anyway, mine is working perfectly now.