Autovox control pad -

[Roy Epperson]

I was speeding (25MPH) up the highway in Yosemite NP Valley floor yesterday when the bike started to accelerate. I'd not turned my wrist but it was turning. I had my winter gloves on so did they get caught on the wrist rest or???

Took my hand off, the RPMs keep rising, what the F*K. Hit the kill switch and took it out of gear and coast to the side of the road. What's going on....... Why's the green light on the Autovox control pad!!!!

Pushed the OFF button nothing happened, light stayed green. Started the bike, started moving, pressed the Set and the Autovox started moving throttle. It appears that I thought I had done a good job sealing the control pad but obviously not.

I'm not sure what caused the Autovox to "set" speed the first time as my left hand never left the grip other than moisture causing it to "set".

So it is time to replace it with the Digikey switches. Found them via a search. Anyone experienced any problems with them?

Roy

 

[wfooshee]

Water in the pad will make switch connections, as will corrsion gunk building up from moisture being present.

The thing to do is to open it up and run a sealant bead around it, pop it back together. Standard practice, as the pad is NOT made to be weatherproof, but it's easy to make it weatherproof.

 

[Roy Epperson]

Water in the pad will make switch connections, as will corrsion gunk building up from moisture being present.
The thing to do is to open it up and run a sealant bead around it, pop it back together. Standard practice, as the pad is NOT made to be weatherproof, but it's easy to make it weatherproof.

There must have been a gap or something as I did apply sealant per the pictures. Or at least I thought I had :angry2: :angry2:

 

[ian]

I think an Audiovox only off/on switch is a good idea. Good to have when I was in a downpour in Colorado a few years ago. I use three rocker switches from RadioShack-one each for the CC, radar detector, auxiliary power for the GPS, tankbag, etc. Haven't had any problems with moisture; others have used marine switches. Ian, Iowa

 

[Leskid]

been there done that

shortly after my AVCC install last summer, I gave the bike a good washing and while riding away, the CC went from OFF to ON & SET before I reached the end of the block. I obviously missed something when weatherproofing it.

Glad it happened. If ever in doubt (or in a panic), pulling the clutch will let the engine spin-up freely, which the AVCC will interpret as a malfunction and cancel itself before it's spun-up even by 1000rpm.

Hasn't happened since but if it does, it's nothing to worry about if I do what instinctively comes to mind (just pull-in the damned clutch)

 

[dcarver]

Good thing none of us are Prius types, huh?

 

[Spud]

Even though I've got mine sealed, whenever I know I'm heading into some really serious rain I pull over and put a sandwich baggie over my control pad and seal and fasten it with a rubber band. I just keep the baggie w/rubber bands in it in the glovebox as it takes up no space. Gives me a little piece of mind as the scenario you are talking about would scare the shit out of me!

 

[HaulinAshe]

Good thing none of us are Prius types, huh?

Good one Don. Exactly what I was thinking. "Must be a Toyota component."

 

[JR'SFJR]

I thought I had mine sealed, but after much rain on the Alcan last summer, it went nuts. It either didn't work or would come on by itself, going full throttle!!!!!!!!!!! Hope that doesn't happen again at the wrong time!!!!!! I popped the cover, dried it and resealed. It has worked fine since, but I haven't been in much rain the last 10k. I recently resealed again, but added dielectric grease to the contacts.

 

[BikerGeek99]

Yep - the rain at SFO '09 killed my keypad, too.

 

[xharleyrider]

Thanks for the headsup! I would hate to make the news like Toyota has been lately..... :angry:

 

[ionbeam]

All Content Deleted

 

[Constant Mesh]

Actually the on/off latching circuit is located on the control pad circuit board. When you press the momentary "on" button the brown wire is latched on with 12 volts assuming power is available from the red ignition wire. When you press "off" or the ignition power is switched off the latch is released. The "set" and "resume" outputs are momentary outputs to the servo -- a constant pulse is sent to the servo as long as a button is pressed.

 

[wfooshee]

Not trying to get into a pissing contest, but Alan's reaction to the subsequent post got me curious, and it was simple enough to check.

If the issue is "Where is the latching circuit?" then it's in the control pad.

I didn't think so, but I just went out and checked it. Unplugged the control pad connector, used a jumper to apply 12 volts to the red wire, had no volts on the brown wire, but got 12 volts on the brown wire (and a lit LED) when I pressed the On button, and it stayed there until I pressed the Off button. Main CC brain was not involved, that connector was hanging loose.

I really thought the control pad was nothing but buttons and LEDs. So basically the latching circuit just mimics a hard switch, connecting the 12 volt source to the brown wire.

For those considering other switchgear, you can simply jumper the red and brown wires together, there is no harm in that whatsoever, or if you insist on a power switch for the cruise, a simple SPST switch to connect the red to the brown is all you need.

 

[Constant Mesh]

Sorry, I didn't mean to cause a problem. Just offering a bit more info. Since I didn't use the control panel in my AVCC installation I briefly studied the control circuitry so I could understand how it worked.

I didn't see ionbeam's response, so no harm no foul.

 

[FJRGuy]

Not trying to get into a pissing contest, but Alan's reaction to the subsequent post got me curious, and it was simple enough to check.
If the issue is "Where is the latching circuit?" then it's in the control pad.

I didn't think so, but I just went out and checked it. Unplugged the control pad connector, used a jumper to apply 12 volts to the red wire, had no volts on the brown wire, but got 12 volts on the brown wire (and a lit LED) when I pressed the On button, and it stayed there until I pressed the Off button. Main CC brain was not involved, that connector was hanging loose.

I really thought the control pad was nothing but buttons and LEDs. So basically the latching circuit just mimics a hard switch, connecting the 12 volt source to the brown wire.

For those considering other switchgear, you can simply jumper the red and brown wires together, there is no harm in that whatsoever, or if you insist on a power switch for the cruise, a simple SPST switch to connect the red to the brown is all you need.

Thanks! I was about to question what to do without the control pad. I bought a set missing the control pad, which was OK by me as I didn't want to use it anyway. I was planning on a separate 'power' switch for the unit but was assuming it would be a (Mom)-Off-(Mom) switch. An On-Off is so much easier.

I haven't checked the box, is there not a wiring diagram for this?

 

[wfooshee]

They don't really have a wiring diagram, just a list of which wire goes to what.

 

[fjr mississippi]

brundog method works great. No way if installed correctly that water can cause a problem with the brundog setup.