Barbarian Jumper Mod on 06

[Hit the Road Jack]

Has anybody with an '07 done this? Seems to me the answer is 'no', after reading the tons of surging/stumbling posts from those owners. Just curious.I'm also curious if the surging and other anomalies are because Yamaha slapped those generic numbers that don't seem to make sense. How can you go from -8, xx, xx, +20? Just doesn't add up. Maybe it was a batch of injectors, but how in the world did they assume all other injectors were going to have the same identical differences?

Inquiring minds want to know. Hopefully somebody with a full exhaust with ports can play leveling all numbers, and such. Later gang.

JC

ELP JC:

Other than paint, I think the '07's are the same as the '06's.

However, for the first 8 or 10 months of '06 ownership, there was no Power Commander available and I was not satisified with living with a lean off-throttle condition.

Whatever the significance of those individual cylinder CO numbers are, I found that mine were the same as most of the others posted (-10, 8, 8, 11). Increasing those counts by +7 (to -3, 15, 15, 18) made a very good improvement with regard to throttle response.

In a mass production environment, Yamaha obviously decided on some standard setting that satisfied the EPA reqs and coded all US-spec bikes to one setting. Other factors also affect how individual bikes react to those production setups.

More or less may work for you. Give it a try. You can always return the settings to their original values.

 

[Silent]

Has anybody with an '07 done this?

Yup. I run the barbarian mod +4. My bike seems to like +4 better than it liked +7.

 

[ELP_JC]

Yup. I run the barbarian mod +4. My bike seems to like +4 better than it liked +7.

Thanks buddy. I was a little confused about how the wires come out, but will figure it out when I see the darn thing, I guess. The most trouble seems to be pushing the plug out, no?

Will do the swap tomorrow, but will wait to adjust it until I see the need. Bike has just 45 miles. If I can live with the slight surging at altitude, will leave it alone, as I'm sure the cat don't like that extra fuel. And I'd definitely start with +4, like you did, and go up if necessary. Hey, what else can be changed on the diagnostic mode? Does anybody have the official procedure how to change all the available parameters, their possible values, etc? Maybe from across the pond? Thanks.

JC

 

[djsmith1000]

I have two questions for all you who have done this mod: Does it adversely affect fuel economy? Has anyone noticed any problems with their catalytic converters?

 

[Silent]

Thanks buddy. I was a little confused about how the wires come out, but will figure it out when I see the darn thing, I guess. The most trouble seems to be pushing the plug out, no?

Excerpt from the Bin O Facts. Good read btw.

[plagerism]

Barbarian Jumper Mod (allows fuel injector mapping adjustment/CO setting changes)

NOTE: link shows instructions for '03 model, for 2006 -- Remove the white plug out of 25, move the wire from 23 to 25, and put the white plug in 23 Clicky

[/plagerism]

06 and 07 are the same. B)

 

[sumotony]

Has anybody with an '07 done this? Seems to me the answer is 'no', after reading the tons of surging/stumbling posts from those owners. Just curious.I'm also curious if the surging and other anomalies are because Yamaha slapped those generic numbers that don't seem to make sense. How can you go from -8, xx, xx, +20? Just doesn't add up. Maybe it was a batch of injectors, but how in the world did they assume all other injectors were going to have the same identical differences?

Inquiring minds want to know. Hopefully somebody with a full exhaust with ports can play leveling all numbers, and such. Later gang.

JC

I have an '07 with a manufacture date of 11/06. I did the BM today and then bumped the CO setting up 7 points on each cylinder. This seemed to cure some of the surge that I had at lower rpm. I had previously changed the throttle tube for the G2 ergo throttle tamer which took out a lot of the abruptness at low rpms.

I had read that someone else had better results with a +5 points, so I tried that, and it was not near as smooth, so I went back to the +7.

BTW, my initial readings were 5, 18, 18, 21 for cyls 1 - 4 respectively. Now that this can be done so quickly, I may experiment with other settings, but the +7 seems pretty darn good.

Congrats on your new silver '07.

Mods I have already made (they seem endless): Skyway frame sliders, Vista Cruise throttle lock, grip puppies, g2 ergo throttle tamer, Sargent seat, CalSci tall wind screen that was traded for CalSci Xtall windscreen, and currently a Vstream, the Barbarian jumper mod today and CO adjustments, Nelson Rigg tank & tail bag, and maybe the best of all - a cramp buster.

 

[FJRAust]

I just finished the mod myself. I increased the settings on all four cylinders by 7 increments and then went for a ride.
Nice!!! Now I like the bike even more. I get less mirror vibration, engine is smoother overall and throttle is not as jerky at low RPMs and the engine feels like it has just a tad more low end torque. Any vibration I used to feel at 75-80mph is now totally gone, and the temp indicator dropped by one bar. This looks to me like a great modification. :yahoo:

For the record, my initial settings on my four cylinders were:

1. -10

2. 8

3. 8

4. 11

I would be curious to know how this compares to what others have measured. No 1 cylinder sure looks to be set a lot leaner than the rest.

I'm probably a little alte in the discussion to add this but my settings are

1. 7

2. 14

3. 8

4. 23

It seems an enormous variation. I do wonder if someone has previously laid a hand to this but to be honest if they had (and buggered it up) I'd expect them to all be the same.

All in all the bike runs fine.

 

[ELP_JC]

US bikes seemed to have only 2 sets of parameters. My 1/07 build had 5,18,18,21, as all GenII I've read about. I still question why not 21,18,18,21, but don't have the equipment to prove it either wrong or right; just doesn't make sense. One bike was probably like that, but all?

I initially set it to +7, but can't say I saw a difference. Changed the settings on my trip to the mountains this morning, and it surged like a MoFo regardless what values I chose. It's sitting at +4 now. I think +5 is the best, but we're talking MINUTE differences here.

And regardless of +4,5 or 7, motor still hesitates when blipping the thorttle, cold or hot. Later.

JC

 

[bob-st]

I know, I am late to the party... But for the record the initial settings on my 06A were:

1. 5

2. 18

3. 18

4. 21

I am at sea level (well plus or minus 10 feet) in south Florida.

I raised the values by 5 points each. So far (after about 80 miles) I think that I am pleased with the mod. I know I sound wishy-washy but the damn bike runs so good, it’s hard to tell if it is running better. For sure it ain't running worse.

I may go way out on a limb and bump the levels 2 more notches (i.e. +7 each).

Bob

 

[burnergold2B]

Alright, I'm gonna do it on my '04, but a couple questions;

a. All I could find was some 14ga copper wire from an electrical redo I did in the house- too big?

b. When done with the adjustments I can remove the jumper piece and CO changes will remain?

c. Bike goes in for TPS recall soon, will this mod void YES warranty?

TIA

 

[Rondo777]

Just jumped on board with this too

My original settings were

c1-5

c2-18

c3-18

c4-21

easy mod and def worth it. I bumped everything by +7 and the bike is smoother. The biggest thing I noticed that I havent seen mentioned in this thread is the improvement in shifting in the AE. I had instant silky smooth up shifts after doing the mod. Befor it was much harder to achieve the shifts I'm pulling off now. The throttle spring adjustment is next on my list!

 

[Jagermeister]

Help, please!!!! I know I'm VERY late to this party, but just performed the Barbarian Mod on my new '07. Now, I can't seem to access the CO settings. When I turn the key & hold both buttons (up to 20 sec) as directed, the clock set mode comes on, but nothing diagnostic.

I'm sure I'm just stoopid, and overlooked some detail. How do I access the CO settings?

 

[trimmantom]

Hold the two buttons in before you hit the key switch,after a few seconds the diagnostic should appear on the screen.

 

[Jagermeister]

Hold the two buttons in before you hit the key switch,after a few seconds the diagnostic should appear on the screen.

Oooooh! Like I said, stoopid.

Thanks!

 

[ROBSMST]

Thank you all for contributing. I'm not sure what the settings on the original ECU were but on the new one they were 5, 18, 18, 21. California AE model. 2006.

So I bumped everything up to 7 and it seemed better around the block. We will see tomorrow in the real world.

I lost the white plug too (after being real careful). It kept sneaking to the back once out etc. etc. The first time I plugged everything back in I could not get into the CO diagnostic mode. Good thing I didn't put everything back together. Unplugged everything, looked in 23 and it turned out I had not pushed the wire in enough as I could not see the metal casing. Pushed it in further, replugged and presto. It worked.

Having the AE there were a lot of extra wires in that section.

 

[MAJ Todd]

First, thanks to M.B.D. at FJRowners.com. He figured this out. The procedure is close to the same as the 03. (https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/jumper.html). You only change pins 23 and 25. Take the white plug out of 25. Then take the wire from 23 and place in 25. Put the plug in 23. Follow the instructions for the other parts. I went plus 7 on all 4 CO settings and it definitely helped. The off idle response is a lot smoother and the slight lean surge at 35MPH in 4th is gone. I don't know the effect yet on MPG. :yahoo:

"have it's EFI's CO setting adjusted, like the European and OZ/NZ models allow. " Can someone please explain this to me?

 

[kaitsdad]

First, thanks to M.B.D. at FJRowners.com. He figured this out. The procedure is close to the same as the 03. (https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/jumper.html). You only change pins 23 and 25. Take the white plug out of 25. Then take the wire from 23 and place in 25. Put the plug in 23. Follow the instructions for the other parts. I went plus 7 on all 4 CO settings and it definitely helped. The off idle response is a lot smoother and the slight lean surge at 35MPH in 4th is gone. I don't know the effect yet on MPG. :yahoo:

"have it's EFI's CO setting adjusted, like the European and OZ/NZ models allow. " Can someone please explain this to me?

Maj Todd,

What the jumper mod does is allow the ECM CO settings to be accessed via the display panel. The European and OZ/NZ models are delivered with this option enabled. The North American models are not. So - in order to be able to access and modify the settings if necessary, what has become known as the "Barbarian Jumper Mod" needs to be performed. It's kind of like changing a dip switch on a pc board (for those of us old enough to remember doing this) so that on power up, the ECU will now allow the CO settings at idle to be changed.

HTH -

 

[MAJ Todd]

First, thanks to M.B.D. at FJRowners.com. He figured this out. The procedure is close to the same as the 03. (https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/jumper.html). You only change pins 23 and 25. Take the white plug out of 25. Then take the wire from 23 and place in 25. Put the plug in 23. Follow the instructions for the other parts. I went plus 7 on all 4 CO settings and it definitely helped. The off idle response is a lot smoother and the slight lean surge at 35MPH in 4th is gone. I don't know the effect yet on MPG. :yahoo:

"have it's EFI's CO setting adjusted, like the European and OZ/NZ models allow. " Can someone please explain this to me?

Maj Todd,

What the jumper mod does is allow the ECM CO settings to be accessed via the display panel. The European and OZ/NZ models are delivered with this option enabled. The North American models are not. So - in order to be able to access and modify the settings if necessary, what has become known as the "Barbarian Jumper Mod" needs to be performed. It's kind of like changing a dip switch on a pc board (for those of us old enough to remember doing this) so that on power up, the ECU will now allow the CO settings at idle to be changed.

HTH -

Thank you now what are CO settings?

 

[Capt. Bob]

Thank you now what are CO settings?

Let's see if I learned anything in class (this Forum)

The CO settings are used to lean or richen the fuel mixture at idle in order to allow the engine to operate in the range of emission standards set by the country to which it is distributed. Since the engines are produced on an assembly line, reproducing the settings needed to meet these standards is somewhat easy ( the specs for the engines are similar in a production run). This would account for the settings being the same for so many of our bikes. Since the emission standards are measured at the "end of pipe" the Factory doesn't need to adjust every engine's exhaust at each cylinder.

Just adjusting these settings arbitrarily (what some of us have done) really doesn't fine tune the CO readings at each exhaust pipe. One would need to measure the readings at each pipe and adjust so all the CO levels were the same. That, I'm fairly certain would result in numbers that are quite different in "spacing" from engine to engine and probably result in a smoother running engine based on other reports on this Forum.

All of this (and a lot more) information can be found by reading recent (as well as older) posts dealing with the release of new ECUs for 06/07 model bikes.

Interesting stuff indeed.

Capt. Bob

 

[MAJ Todd]

Let's see if I learned anything in class (this Forum)

The CO settings are used to lean or richen the fuel mixture at idle in order to allow the engine to operate in the range of emission standards set by the country to which it is distributed. Since the engines are produced on an assembly line, reproducing the settings needed to meet these standards is somewhat easy ( the specs for the engines are similar in a production run). This would account for the settings being the same for so many of our bikes. Since the emission standards are measured at the "end of pipe" the Factory doesn't need to adjust every engine's exhaust at each cylinder.

Just adjusting these settings arbitrarily (what some of us have done) really doesn't fine tune the CO readings at each exhaust pipe. One would need to measure the readings at each pipe and adjust so all the CO levels were the same. That, I'm fairly certain would result in numbers that are quite different in "spacing" from engine to engine and probably result in a smoother running engine based on other reports on this Forum.

All of this (and a lot more) information can be found by reading recent (as well as older) posts dealing with the release of new ECUs for 06/07 model bikes.

Interesting stuff indeed.

Capt. Bob

Thank you and I will read all those threads, it's just most assume you know the basics, and I don't, yet. Why do people do this mod?