Electrical - Hazard, turn, running lights out

[Roy Epperson]

Patient - '07 A 75K miles, Factory harness recall replacement done 8K miles ago, Brodie's ignition key rely installed. My auxiliary power bus is on a separate circuit directly off battery and switched with relay activated by running lights

Problem - went for a short ride all "topic" light were working. Got home turned off bike, went into house, and came back out and turned on key and noticed no running lights, no turn signals or hazards. Brake and head lights work fine.

Checked ALL fuses in the fuse boxes by battery - all fuses are good.

Looked at Service Manual and talked with local dealer and don't see any other fuses between subject lights and fuses.

Any recommendations on what to look for and where to look?

I haven't lifted my relay tap on the running light lead to see if that might be the problem but that's only the running.

Hummmmm

TIA,

Roy

 

[TomInPA]

Hey Roy! You're not the first to lose the Hazard/Turn signal relay in the nose cone on the right side near the bottom of the frame section that holds the instrument display. Ouch. Have you ever done a nose-coneectomy? Check the electric schematic (63 hazard/signal relay.

 

[Roy Epperson]

Hey Roy! You're not the first to lose the Hazard/Turn signal relay in the nose cone on the right side near the bottom of the frame section that holds the instrument display. Ouch. Have you ever done a nose-coneectomy? Check the electric schematic (63 hazard/signal relay.

Tom you're a bearer of good tidings

Nope, never had the need or desire to take off the nose cone..... sounds like I'll have to search for the post that had the description of a Gen II nose-coneectomy!!

grrr

Was suppose to leave of a 3 day ride on Friday

Is the relay a NAPA/Autozone part or a Yamaha specific?

 

[bluesdog]

Hey Roy! You're not the first to lose the Hazard/Turn signal relay in the nose cone on the right side near the bottom of the frame section that holds the instrument display. Ouch. Have you ever done a nose-coneectomy? Check the electric schematic (63 hazard/signal relay.

Tom you're a bearer of good tidings

Nope, never had the need or desire to take off the nose cone..... sounds like I'll have to search for the post that had the description of a Gen II nose-coneectomy!!

grrr

Was suppose to leave of a 3 day ride on Friday

Is the relay a NAPA/Autozone part or a Yamaha specific?

Gen II tupperware removal: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=116788

Can't help with the relay part specs, but betcha it's pretty standard.

 

[Roy Epperson]

Gen II tupperware removal: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=116788
Can't help with the relay part specs, but betcha it's pretty standard.

Thanks for the link!

 

[Donal]

All of the systems you mentioned are supplied from the same fuse, no. 9 on mine (2009), have a look in your owners manual, page 6-29 for the 'Signalling System Fuse'.

When you say you "checked all the fuses", how did you confirm they were in good condition?

I would suggest you (temporarily) replace the suspect fuse with a new, good fuse.

 

[ionbeam]

If it is the fuse, it raises the bigger question of what caused it to blow. Fuses don't just blow for no reason.

There is a good chance that the problem is the headlight relay or the red/yellow where it attaches to the relay socket.

 

[Roy Epperson]

When you say you "checked all the fuses", how did you confirm they were in good condition?
I would suggest you (temporarily) replace the suspect fuse with a new, good fuse.

With an ohmmeter

If it is the fuse, it raises the bigger question of what caused it to blow. Fuses don't just blow for no reason.
There is a good chance that the problem is the headlight relay or the red/yellow where it attaches to the relay socket.

Headlight relay? Did you mean turn signal? Headlights are fine

 

[ionbeam]

When you say you "checked all the fuses", how did you confirm they were in good condition?
I would suggest you (temporarily) replace the suspect fuse with a new, good fuse.

With an ohmmeter

If it is the fuse, it raises the bigger question of what caused it to blow. Fuses don't just blow for no reason.
There is a good chance that the problem is the headlight relay or the red/yellow where it attaches to the relay socket.

Headlight relay? Did you mean turn signal? Headlights are fine

Having had a second cup of coffee let me try this again

Disregard any mention of any relay.

The things that the running lights, turn signals and hazards have in common are the hazard lighting fuse, coupler 5 (10 positions, in 2 rows of 5, only 9 wires installed), grounds through spiders and the ignition switch.

There is a possibility that this is spider related and need to confirm that there is ground at the running lights.

Using your handy meter you need to see if there is power at the hazard lighting fuse (brown/red wire), the power would be coming from the ignition switch/Brody harness. If power is present at the fuse then you need to check coupler 5 for corrosion at the blue/red wire. You should find the problem at one of these locations.

 

[Constant Mesh]

He said the brake lights are working. That tells us the return bus is fine for the rear running lights. The brake lights and rear running lights share the same return path. I would assume that the license plate light would also be good to go -- same return path.

The power to the rear running lights and license plate light doesn't pass through an intermediate wiring harness coupler (except for the connector at the light fixture).

Points to a bad fuse.

Is the relay you added not energizing on key on? Where did you connect the negative side of the relay coil? Its return path is not likely corrupted.

 

[Roy Epperson]

He said the brake lights are working. That tells us the return bus is fine for the rear running lights. The brake lights and rear running lights share the same return path. I would assume that the license plate light would also be good to go -- same return path.
The power to the rear running lights and license plate light doesn't pass through an intermediate wiring harness coupler (except ofor the connector at the light fixture).

Points to a bad fuse.

Is the relay you added not energizing on key on? Where did you connect the negative side of the relay coil? Its return path is not likely corrupted.

Not fuses, unless there is a factory fuse that is not in the fuse connector containers. All those are good and there is voltage to them as headlights, brake lights and engine starts.

The grounds on the brake/running light sockets and turn signs have zero ohms to the battery, so they are good.

With both running and turn out, it looks like Connector 5 that Alan mentioned is the guilty party. Now to find it.......

 

[Roy Epperson]

Thanks to all for the feedback.

I'm confused / puzzled. What I remember is measuring the resistance of all the fuses in both boxes..... but in a senior moment I must have forgotten the Hazard fuse which was open.... grrrrr

I replaced it and all is right with the world of my FJR.

I have a family event this afternoon and early event. When I get back I will post a table I made of which items are fused by the Signal and Hazard fuses. Some are direct to the fuse and others connect through Connector 5. There are devices on each I would not have expected based on the name of the fuse.

 

[TomInPA]