frustrated with HEAD SHAKE

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According to my shop manuel for the 05 I use to have the washer between the two nuts is a rubber washer.

This is correct - just had my '05 apart to lube the bearings.

The torque on the nut that goes above the rubber washer is little more than hand-tightened.

 
Wow, can't believe that I read all these posts. Seems like I've read them before, on most boards also. So, again, here's what I posted last time & I'll probably post it again next time.

Just like front tire cupping, they all do it & it's supposed to. You can just feel it more in some than in others. Motorcycles steer straight, by themselves, by weaving (wobbling) down the road. If you look at a technical drawing, you'll see that it steers to the left & then self corrects to the right and so on. It does it at such a low amplitude that you normally don't notice it, especially with your hands on the bars, which tends to dampen the effect. When decelerating, there is more downward pressure on the front tire, which makes it harder for it to swing from side to side to self correct. (Stand by a bike & turn the bars & then do the same while sitting on the bike & the bars are harder to turn) In this case, the front tire goes further out before it self corrects each way & this is the front end wobble you feel, especially if you take both hands off the grips. Ever get a grocery cart where the front wheel wobbles? They steer the same way. Never take both hands off the grips especially when decelerating at 40mph or below & you’ll be O K. You can, however take both hands off your grocery cart…Later,,,De :rolleyes:

 
I have had this problem with other Yamaha bikes, though not my FJR as yet. I had an '85 RZ500 that was downright nasty with the head shake. Had to put a steering damper on it finally. Then I had an 89 FZR1000 which only had a mild speed wobble at speeds above 220km/hr. I currently have an 85FZ750 that had a deceleration wobble so I changed the tire and it almost completely went away. However, I also had an 87 FZR100 that I looped during a wheelie and dented the front rim mildly. So since I was only 23yrs old at the time and invincible, I figured I could just hammer it out and re-balance the tire :dribble: Well..............you might be interested to know that this bike had ZERO speed wobble before the dented rim, but certanly had one after!!! Just saying :rolleyes:

Merry Christmas everyone!!!!!!!!!!! :D

 
I think I have finally cured my problem with headshake. As I memtioned in a previous p[ost I have replaced fork springs (1.2),oil,then tapered head bearings(timpkin type)Plus slightly increased the torque on the bearings. All this helped about 60% and I think that new tires may fix the rest.

Meanwhile , I recall that all the bikes I have had to shake, just tightening the bearings fixed it.

I then found a piece of 1.5" pipe 6" long and marked one end with the cutout slots on the bearing adjustment nut. then started sawing and filing untill I had 4 tabs that fit into the nut. Then welded in an old 1/2 " socket that just slip fit in the nipple.

Took the bearings apart again (starting to get old) And torqued the adjustment nut to 40# and started to put it back togrther when I decided I did not like that rubber spacer that aligns the slots in the two nuts. So cut a ring spacer (about .065") to fit between the nuts.Also had to add another piece of shimstock

about .005" to align the slots in the two nuts. Sure hope this makes sense!

It has been very cold here, So I have only gotten to ride 3 times, But this seems to have completely cured my problem, and my front tire is still badly cupped.

While I don't think for a minute that the shims i made helped any, I don't think that the nuts will back off now, and that is comforting!

Bernie

P.S.

Need to do more testing as I rode today and it tried to shake at about 15 to 20 mph but stopped by it self.

Next time I have it apart I will go to 50# of torque.

My bike is an 03 with only 30,000 miles on it( bought it last summer) and I suspect that is why it was sold. Must admit that I was thinking the same thing because the shake was dangerous.

 
Update...my dealers who fitted the new Z6 found out that Metzler make different versions of the Z6 and specifically on that is designed for the FJR.

The tires they had fitted from stock, although Z6, were not designed for the FJR.

The replaced them both at no charge to me (which was convenient since I'd had the bike towed in with a screw in the rear) with the new tires, the ones designed for the FJR.

I still get head shake, however it's gone from severe (life threatening) to mild (can ride at a constant 40 without holding on to the bars (just testing the headshake), the shake is mild and does not escalate)

I've now put about 2,000 miles on the new tires, the mild headshake is still there, no better and no worse...

 
When I purchased my bike it came from the factory with Z6's. There was always a slight shimmy in the front end.

Never really threatening, just a mild oscillation in the handlebars. If I took my hands off the bars, the bar end would

wag back and forth about one inch at most. I didn't even feel it with my hands on the bars.

When it was time to replace the tires I chose a different brand of tires, one that incidentally didn't have a center groove.

The shimmy has completely disappeared. No shimmy or shake at any speed, constant or during deceleration.

The transformation has been dramatic. Since I didn't make any other changes I have to attribute the head shake to the Z6's.

 
Sounds like a buzz kill to me. I agree with Don. I raced road bicycles for years and found the wheels in true are very important to smooth riding. There's a crude way to check the true of your front wheel/rim. Take a sharpie and affix it to you front left fork with the felt (marker) end a couple millimeters from your wheel (about 1 centimeter past the bead). Put your bike on the center stand and have wife, buddy etc either push down or set on the passenger seat. Slowly rotate the front wheel in the drive direction and watch to see if the marker touches the rim (it will leave a mark).

If this happens you have an "out of true" wheel/rim. Sometimes it happens during shipment. Who knows what happens to these bikes between Japan and your butt.

If the wheel is in true I'd check the head bearing torque. You do it don't trust Yamaha check FJRTech.com great tutorials. Also check the balance of the wheel.

I have really changed my mind about Yamaha service and warranty. I put them right down there with-I don't know Bring Money With (BMW). Good Luck, Dirk.

 
G'Day Guys

I would just like to say I have a 06 FJR that has bad head-shake , I have tried a few different tire's , I have a Bridgestone on the front now and the shake is worse than ever

It sems a lot of FJR's do this ,some riders may never know because they never take both hands off the bars at the same time

I never noticed it untill I fitted a cruise to my bike

Has anyone managed to fix it , I sure would like to . Anyone heard how Rock has got on with his

Thanks regards , Jacko

 
Update...my dealers who fitted the new Z6 found out that Metzler make different versions of the Z6 and specifically on that is designed for the FJR.The tires they had fitted from stock, although Z6, were not designed for the FJR.

The replaced them both at no charge to me (which was convenient since I'd had the bike towed in with a screw in the rear) with the new tires, the ones designed for the FJR.

I still get head shake, however it's gone from severe (life threatening) to mild (can ride at a constant 40 without holding on to the bars (just testing the headshake), the shake is mild and does not escalate)

I've now put about 2,000 miles on the new tires, the mild headshake is still there, no better and no worse...
I have had Z6 tires on my bike ,but probably not the correct one's

I have been told about the Z6 speciifically for the FJR and I had a look at the Mezler web site and couldnt find any info about it

How do I identify the correct tire ,is there a number or code that I can ask my dearler to order

Thanks Jacko

 
G'Day Guys
I would just like to say I have a 06 FJR that has bad head-shake , I have tried a few different tire's , I have a Bridgestone on the front now and the shake is worse than ever

It sems a lot of FJR's do this ,some riders may never know because they never take both hands off the bars at the same time

I never noticed it untill I fitted a cruise to my bike

Has anyone managed to fix it , I sure would like to . Anyone heard how Rock has got on with his

Thanks regards , Jacko
I don`t understand, whats there to fix if u ride with your hands on the bars? I don`t know about anybody else, but once in a while I`ll take one hand off now and then, but not both. If your riding in a normal fashion with both hands on the bars (normal condition), there is no headshake. Soooo, what is there to fix? If your riding with no hands (abnormal condition), there is a headshake (considered to be abnormal by many)....then it all fits doesn`t it?! Chasing the headshake is a waste of energy. My ole `04 did it and it got worse as the front tire got worn regardless of what hoop I used although, the Azarro seemed best for the application. I think it`s too easy to become obsessed with our mounts and we expect perfection in all areas. It`s just easier to change our mindset than a front end. :assassin:

 
I've got a nasty head shake too....

Jeff_Motorcycle_Couple.jpg


 
Rock - Sorry to hear of your issues. The dealer is only on your side until it starts costing them money. They are funny that way when they don't get lots-O-profit$$$ all the time.

I'm not sure how sensitive you are to the head shake Vs say someone else. To you it may seem amplified while others may not notice it at all. Have others rode your bike (besides the dealer wrenches) and felt the same thing? Get other rider friends and other FJR riders to check it out for you and see what they say.

I have a Gen I and I also have slight head shake. I only really notice it when decelerating and have my hands off the bars. With my hands on it I don't notice it. Next time I go ride it I'll really keep in touch with this to se if I can notice it with my hands on the bars.

 
I removed the side case's and top box to give the bike a wash , then took it for a ride without em , very little head shake , so what that telling me , the rear spring / shock is to blame , I guess ,

Time for a up grade

 
I removed the side case's and top box to give the bike a wash , then took it for a ride without em , very little head shake , so what that telling me , the rear spring / shock is to blame , I guess ,
Time for a up grade
An 06 needing rear shocker work already, how many k's Jacko?

I am inclined to think if it's ok with side cases and top box removed it would be some thing to do with wind buffeting.

I would put the side cases on and ride it, then put the top box on and try it again.

My guess would be that it will be fine without the top box.

 
I removed the side case's and top box to give the bike a wash , then took it for a ride without em , very little head shake , so what that telling me , the rear spring / shock is to blame , I guess ,
Time for a up grade
no mystery here...all u did was put more weight on the front tire...kinda like putting yer hands back on the bars. :assassin:

 
Bernie, I think you stumbled onto what the people on the V-Max and Venture forums call "The Furber Fix". I believe it was a gentleman by the name of John Furber that originated the idea of moving the spacer from between the nuts to above the nuts. The assembly becomes a jamnut setup. The lower nut is torqued to specification, then held in place while the upper nut is torqued to it. The toothed washer is discarded and the spacer moved to between the jamnuts and fork bridge. I did it to my Venture with some success - my fork sliders had way too much wear to completely remove the headshake. As long as the road was smooth and nothing upset my front end I could run no hands. The slightest upset would start a headshake that could be unnerving when you aren't expecting it.

Do a Google search and read up on the subject. Aside from the post from Bounce, I'm surprised this remedy hasn't come up before in this forum.

Brodie

I think I have finally cured my problem with headshake. As I memtioned in a previous p[ost I have replaced fork springs (1.2),oil,then tapered head bearings(timpkin type)Plus slightly increased the torque on the bearings. All this helped about 60% and I think that new tires may fix the rest.Meanwhile , I recall that all the bikes I have had to shake, just tightening the bearings fixed it.

I then found a piece of 1.5" pipe 6" long and marked one end with the cutout slots on the bearing adjustment nut. then started sawing and filing untill I had 4 tabs that fit into the nut. Then welded in an old 1/2 " socket that just slip fit in the nipple.

Took the bearings apart again (starting to get old) And torqued the adjustment nut to 40# and started to put it back togrther when I decided I did not like that rubber spacer that aligns the slots in the two nuts. So cut a ring spacer (about .065") to fit between the nuts.Also had to add another piece of shimstock

about .005" to align the slots in the two nuts. Sure hope this makes sense!

It has been very cold here, So I have only gotten to ride 3 times, But this seems to have completely cured my problem, and my front tire is still badly cupped.

While I don't think for a minute that the shims i made helped any, I don't think that the nuts will back off now, and that is comforting!

Bernie

P.S.

Need to do more testing as I rode today and it tried to shake at about 15 to 20 mph but stopped by it self.

Next time I have it apart I will go to 50# of torque.

My bike is an 03 with only 30,000 miles on it( bought it last summer) and I suspect that is why it was sold. Must admit that I was thinking the same thing because the shake was dangerous.
 
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