Hard downshifting?

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Norman Hamer

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I just got back from a 4800 mile ride on my new-to-me '07. Ran into an issue that I'm not sure what to make of.

Shifting normally at speed, both up and downshifts are OK, if a little clunky. Yamalube oil change right before the trip.

But when coming to a stop in a higher gear, it just did _not_ want to downshift (several times - I'm sure I did this and it was OK, a lot more than I noticed it). Every single gear, I had to shift down, release the clutch slightly to get it moving, then shift down again before it would downshift. Wouldn't ever shift 2 gears in a row (including through neutral to 1).

Is this common? It's not exactly hard to deal with, but it's sure annoying when working through it.

 
When was the last time the clutch fluid was flushed? try flushing the clutch and while your at it do the brakes.

 
My 05 does that to. Mostly at low rpm coming to a stop. I find that its not a problem if I start down shifting at higher speeds/rpm. I dont notice it hardly at all anymore. Good luck

 
My 05 does the same thing, a little clunky going thru the lower gears when its really hot. Just compensate for it a little, no biggie........every bike has some quirks. Hondas used to hit neutral on the shift to 2nd.....worked around that........

 
If I read your post correctly, are you trying to shift gears when stopped or without letting the clutch lever out at least some between each gear shift?

Every bike I've ever owned/ridden (dozens since the mid-'70s) has "a problem" with that. Bike transmissions are very different from auto ones and do _not_ like shifting to the next gear until the present one is thoroughly engaged and the transmission is being driven by the engine, as in actually speed synchronized. Easing the clutch out between gears is quite normal. What I do is downshift moving, when coming to a stop. It may seem cumbersome at first but quickly becomes automatic with a little practice.

 
If I read your post correctly, are you trying to shift gears when stopped or without letting the clutch lever out at least some between each gear shift?

Every bike I've ever owned/ridden (dozens since the mid-'70s) has "a problem" with that. Bike transmissions are very different from auto ones and do _not_ like shifting to the next gear until the present one is thoroughly engaged and the transmission is being driven by the engine, as in actually speed synchronized. Easing the clutch out between gears is quite normal. What I do is downshift moving, when coming to a stop. It may seem cumbersome at first but quickly becomes automatic with a little practice.
+1

 
Ive owned 18 bikes and they all have done it. Its not a "problem" but the way motorcycles are. You cant come to a complete stop in 5th gear and down shift without using the clutch. Ive found that mine downshifts smoothest at around 15 mph.

 
NEVER shift a motorcycle that isn't moving, and especially never shift a motorcycle that's not running. (Obvious exception is neutral to first, but not even that if the motor's not running. A bike sitting in neutral has rotating input shaft in the tranny, being driven by the engine.)

The dogs have to be rotating by each other to engage. That's why you have to clutch or move the bike to get the next gear. But while you're trying for that gear and before you clutch or move, the shift forks are trying to force the gear motion, and the gear can't move until the dogs engage. That stresses the shift forks, and eventually you'll bend them.

Downshift as you brake, whether you're braking to a stop or preparing for a turn. If you're not doing that, then you've forgotten (or not been to) your MSF Basic Rider Course, as downshift while moving is very strongly emphasized.

 
If I read your post correctly, are you trying to shift gears when stopped or without letting the clutch lever out at least some between each gear shift?

Every bike I've ever owned/ridden (dozens since the mid-'70s) has "a problem" with that. Bike transmissions are very different from auto ones and do _not_ like shifting to the next gear until the present one is thoroughly engaged and the transmission is being driven by the engine, as in actually speed synchronized. Easing the clutch out between gears is quite normal. What I do is downshift moving, when coming to a stop. It may seem cumbersome at first but quickly becomes automatic with a little practice.
Yup. It's not at all surprising to me that it's _clunky_ shifting at a stop, just that it actually _requires_ clutching every gear. I've had 4 different bikes in the last decade, and they'd all mostly shift through (albeit clunky).

 
Yup. It's not at all surprising to me that it's _clunky_ shifting at a stop, just that it actually _requires_ clutching every gear. I've had 4 different bikes in the last decade, and they'd all mostly shift through (albeit clunky).
Strictly speaking, the FJR will shift without the clutch if the engine rpm is high enough...just don't expect a long life out of the transmission if you do that.

 
I searched for this topic and was glad to find this post. I didn't know about the engine's input shaft turning and the need for the dogs to engage the gears. I just had new tires put on and was out on the backroads wearing in the tires and just doing a lot of shifting and slow speed riding . That's when I started noticing trouble getting back into first gear. I will try this technique: have the bike moving and sequentially downshifting as I brake. Thanks for the education!!! ;)

 
Just a thought, since I actually did some maintenance: I was beginning to think it was time for clutch work or something since it seemed that my shifting had become rather stiff. I was dreading the cost and time but no matter, that wasn't it. It was the shift lever full of gunk. Do a search, find the link and clean/lube that pivot point! It helps a lot.

 
...It was the shift lever full of gunk. Do a search, find the link and clean/lube that pivot point! It helps a lot.
I concur, this is a most overlooked maintenance item just like the brake lever pivot. The two diagrams below are from a Gen II, a Gen I shift lever is the same but the foot peg bracket is different. The Gen I foot peg bracket is smaller because the passenger peg is on a separate bracket.

The area that needs cleaning and lube is item 28 and the tube that it runs through, in addition to the two rod ends. Be careful of wave washer #29 and the torque you use to tighten up the bolt because if it is too tight it will drag when you try to shift.

ShiftShaft1_zps3b8bd6f8.jpg


Item 28 bolts into the back of the bracket shown below. It goes into a threaded boss just below the two holes on the left end of the foot peg bracket.

PegCover1_zpsde906efe.jpg


 
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I concur, this is a most overlooked maintenance item just like the brake lever pivot. The two diagrams below are from a Gen II, a Gen I shift lever is the same but the foot peg bracket is different. The Gen I foot peg bracket is smaller because the passenger peg is on a separate bracket.

The area that needs cleaning and lube is item 28 and the tube that it runs through, in addition to the two rod ends. Be careful of wave washer #29 and the torque you use to tighten up the bolt because if it is too tight it will drag when you try to shift.
Yep, that's the stuff. I thought at first I must have left something out but I didn't. It just freed up that much, I was very surprised. Like everything else, a very slow gradual change doesn't get noticed.

 
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