BrunDog
Well-known member
** EDIT **
Oops, sorry guys. I went back and read the previous posts in this thread, so clearly you have tried many of these things. Please read with a box of kosher salt... Clearly there is something repeatable happening here, but the root cause has not been identified yet (genius, I know).
I would add that perhaps some serious looks at the electronic signals is in order: put a scope on the power lines and make sure the signals are clean. Perhaps seperate the power source of the bike altogether and run it with a 12V battery? Otherwise, perhaps a call to AV will help. Does the unit issue and fault codes via an LED or anything? (Sorry, dont remember, mine has worked since day one).
** END EDIT **
I think in order to solve this problem, you guys need to break it down into its fundamental parts:
1. It doesn't sound like the temperature is the problem. Do any of these engage and work for a bit even when hot? If so, it is not the temperature. If a cold unit works at first, then stops working and will not re-engage when hot, then temperature is the problem. But if they do re-engage when hot, it is likely not an over-temp problem. Plus, those who have it not working under the seat generally proves temp is not the problem.
2. If the unit works fine, then stops working, my guess is it is not a vacuum problem. Nonetheless, I would tee in a vacuum gauge and watch it real time. If the vacuum level stays consistent, then move on to the next step.
3. If the unit works fine, then stops working, my other guess is it is not a linkage problem. If the unit can generate the force needed to torque the butterflys at first, that should not change.
4. If the brakeline voltage is suspect, temporarily remove it altogether. Disconnect the brake switch wiring from the CC, and test it out. Does it work now? If so, there's the problem. (BTW, make sure you have the power switch hooked up to power down the CC when you need it to disengage!). This may be ultimately be fixed by a relay (mentioned above), though I would go solid-state on this one for reliability. Oh, and for the test, you may need to pull the signal line to GND or +12V (can't remember - its been a while since I did mine).
5. I'll maintain that it is not the tach line. It wouldn't work at all if it was. Anyway, to test this, why don't you switch to the magnetic sensor, and temporarily put the magnet on the wheel and go for a spin?
-BD
Oops, sorry guys. I went back and read the previous posts in this thread, so clearly you have tried many of these things. Please read with a box of kosher salt... Clearly there is something repeatable happening here, but the root cause has not been identified yet (genius, I know).
I would add that perhaps some serious looks at the electronic signals is in order: put a scope on the power lines and make sure the signals are clean. Perhaps seperate the power source of the bike altogether and run it with a 12V battery? Otherwise, perhaps a call to AV will help. Does the unit issue and fault codes via an LED or anything? (Sorry, dont remember, mine has worked since day one).
** END EDIT **
I think in order to solve this problem, you guys need to break it down into its fundamental parts:
1. It doesn't sound like the temperature is the problem. Do any of these engage and work for a bit even when hot? If so, it is not the temperature. If a cold unit works at first, then stops working and will not re-engage when hot, then temperature is the problem. But if they do re-engage when hot, it is likely not an over-temp problem. Plus, those who have it not working under the seat generally proves temp is not the problem.
2. If the unit works fine, then stops working, my guess is it is not a vacuum problem. Nonetheless, I would tee in a vacuum gauge and watch it real time. If the vacuum level stays consistent, then move on to the next step.
3. If the unit works fine, then stops working, my other guess is it is not a linkage problem. If the unit can generate the force needed to torque the butterflys at first, that should not change.
4. If the brakeline voltage is suspect, temporarily remove it altogether. Disconnect the brake switch wiring from the CC, and test it out. Does it work now? If so, there's the problem. (BTW, make sure you have the power switch hooked up to power down the CC when you need it to disengage!). This may be ultimately be fixed by a relay (mentioned above), though I would go solid-state on this one for reliability. Oh, and for the test, you may need to pull the signal line to GND or +12V (can't remember - its been a while since I did mine).
5. I'll maintain that it is not the tach line. It wouldn't work at all if it was. Anyway, to test this, why don't you switch to the magnetic sensor, and temporarily put the magnet on the wheel and go for a spin?
-BD
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