New suspension settings

[FJR_Mikey]

Please be VERY careful about adjusting the rear rebound clicker. The clicker pushes a dampening control rod upward to tighten/stiffen the rebound dampening. Think of it as a right-hand thread when viewed from the bottom. Clockwise tightens/moves the rod upwards/stiffens the dampening.

Fully clockwise is the closed/zero setting. But DO NOT jam the setting tight.

The number of clicks is referenced from the closed position. The more you open the dampening clicker (counter-clockwise), the more open the valve plates become, the more freely the fluid flows back and forth, and the softer the rebound dampening reacts. That means the rear shock will return to its full and upright position quicker as you open/soften the dampening.

Yamaha states the useable range is 3 to 20 clicks.

Jeff:

 

Thank you for this informative thread. I have a new 2009, weight is around 270, ride one up and not very aggressive. I have set my suspension to your original 2005 standards, except I left the rear preload at soft. I took it out tonight just for about 20 minutes and I thought it was much better than stock.

 

My main question is concerning the rear rebound. When I turned it counterclockwise to full hard, it did not come to a stop like the the front adjusters. It tightened up a bit and then moved another "click", but this one didn't feel as firm you might say as the last few in. I got the feeling that I was at full hard, but the knob would continue to turn if I would have kept going. I turned it back clockwise and received the more tight "normal felling click and then went six additional clicks clockwise.

 

Does it sound like I did the rear rebound correctly? There was never a doubt with the front adjustments, but the rear I wasn't exactly sure about.

 

Thanks again for all your help...

 

[FJR_Mikey]

Please be VERY careful about adjusting the rear rebound clicker. The clicker pushes a dampening control rod upward to tighten/stiffen the rebound dampening. Think of it as a right-hand thread when viewed from the bottom. Clockwise tightens/moves the rod upwards/stiffens the dampening.

Fully clockwise is the closed/zero setting. But DO NOT jam the setting tight.

The number of clicks is referenced from the closed position. The more you open the dampening clicker (counter-clockwise), the more open the valve plates become, the more freely the fluid flows back and forth, and the softer the rebound dampening reacts. That means the rear shock will return to its full and upright position quicker as you open/soften the dampening.

Yamaha states the useable range is 3 to 20 clicks.

Jeff:

 

Thank you for this informative thread. I have a new 2009, weight is around 270, ride one up and not very aggressive. I have set my suspension to your original 2005 standards, except I left the rear preload at soft. I took it out tonight just for about 20 minutes and I thought it was much better than stock.

 

My main question is concerning the rear rebound. When I turned it counterclockwise to full hard, it did not come to a stop like the the front adjusters. It tightened up a bit and then moved another "click", but this one didn't feel as firm you might say as the last few in. I got the feeling that I was at full hard, but the knob would continue to turn if I would have kept going. I turned it back clockwise and received the more tight "normal felling click and then went six additional clicks clockwise.

 

Does it sound like I did the rear rebound correctly? There was never a doubt with the front adjustments, but the rear I wasn't exactly sure about.

 

Thanks again for all your help...

Let me make a change to what I said above. When stating that I turned it Counterclockwise to full hard I was looking at the adjuster from the top. If lying on the floor looking up at the rear adjuster, I indeed turned it Clockwise as you stated in your post above to full hard. I believe I have it correct as it feels much, much better. I did move it from what I believe to be 6 clicks back out to 8 and think I've found the right spot for me.

 

My question still remains though. Based on Jeff's original post above, how do you determine when you're at the "closed/zero" setting on the rear rebound adjuster?

 

[Dorian]

you have to dial both at the same time

Alex, I love the new vinyl!

You guys are very welcomed. I'm glad the changes are working for you.

Now when it comes to women, I'm the LAST guy you want advice from! In an entire lifetime, I've yet to learn how to properly adjust boobs, I just keep trying.

 

[HaulinAshe]

My question still remains though. Based on Jeff's original post above, how do you determine when you're at the "closed/zero" setting on the rear rebound adjuster?

You should be able to feel a definite resistance as the rebound clicker reaches the fully-closed/fully-clockwise position. Use the basic force of two fingertips, anything more and you can do real damage to the shock.

 

[Niehart]

Jeff, I don't know why ya keep answering this tread. Only46,741 folks looked :clapping: at it so far. You know how I hate to say good things but "Great Job".

 

[Blind Squirrel]

This post string and my manual really helped me get my suspension feeling good again. When I bought the bike I was ~200 pounds; so was the guy I bought it from. He had it set up for his weight. I am now 178 (and declining). The bike was really starting to feel stiff and jerky. Using Jeff's settings as a guide I was able to get the bike feeling smooth and comfortable again. Thanks Jeff! :clapping:

 

[art miller]

Note - This post was originally made for a 2005 model. See subsequent posts for information on 2007 and later models.

So yesterday I serviced my forks, steering head bearing, put on a new tire and decided to do some tweaking on the suspension settings. But first things first...

If you have never checked your suspension settings (clickers) you should. If you don't have a service manual then take it to the dealer and get it done. Many dealers assume incorrectly that Yamaha accurately sets the suspension on every bike released. I've seen several brand new bikes, both dirt and street, that have clickers set wrong or worse, set differently from right to left forks.

Rickster recently posted a reply that contained this reference:

<!--quoteo--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->SPortRider.com shows for the FJR:

Front 2 lines

rebound 4 clicks out

compression 7 clicks out

rear preload - hard

rear rebound 3 clicks out

(rear compression is not adjustable on stock shock)<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Now I consider those settings to be a bit "harsh". I especially don't like running the rear rebound that stiff. My personal experience is that anytime you adjust suspension clickers to near their limit, performance becomes questionable and the suspension behaves erratically. So I devised compromised settings as follows:

Rider weight: 183 lbs.

Typical Bike Payload: Yamaha side bags and top bag, 25 lbs. added cargo

Riding style: Moderately aggressive, frequent 3-digit speeds, rapid braking and acceleration common.

FRONT

* Preload, Line-2 (this means one line exposed above the cap, one line flush with the cap/adjuster). Stock setting is Line-3.

* Rebound, 6 clicks out. Stock setting is 12-clicks out. (this is the top adjustment)

* Compression, 8 clicks out. Stock setting is 12-clicks out. (this is the bottom adjustment that protrudes off the side of the fork)

REAR

* Preload - Hard (find the lever!)

* Rebound - 6 clicks out. Stock is 10-clicks out. (think of the rear rebound clicker as a right-hand thread)

OBSERVATIONS FROM TEST RIDE

<!--coloro:#3333FF--><span style="color:#3333FF"><!--/coloro-->Wow!<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> The very first thing I noticed yet never expected, was that the bar vibration is reduced. Apparently a lot of the bar vibration comes from the suspension being so soft and allowing small, rapid movements in the fork tubes. The stiffer suspension settings seems to force the tire to soak up a bit more.

<!--coloro:#3333FF--><span style="color:#3333FF"><!--/coloro-->No more weebles!<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> I've always hated that "weeble" feel when driving hard into corners, especially high-speed sweepers with elevation transitions. The front tended to "wobble and weave" with a washy feeling that I called "weebling". You know... Weebles wobble but they don't fall down. That somewhat freaky thing seems to be drastically reduced if not gone!

<!--coloro:#3333FF--><span style="color:#3333FF"><!--/coloro-->Dive Dive Dive no more!<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> I can now roll hard to a stop and get a smooth return to the top. No more diving of the front end when tapping the brakes for a high-speed corner setup. Just tap the front and the forks settle into slightly lower position with no rebound. You can definitely feel the added wheelbase in the turns. This must be what the 06 guys feel all the time.

<!--coloro:#3333FF--><span style="color:#3333FF"><!--/coloro-->Perhaps less tire pressure?<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> I normally run 40 rear, 38 front. I could easily see running 38 rear and 36 front, providing the tires don't do something stupid with mileage. This would give me a slightly better footprint and improved traction.

Overall the new settings have a much crisper, yet not uncomfortable feel. I don't have a lot of twisties to test around here. But this weekend I plan the NorthGA run and we'll see for certain how the new settings play. Yamaha has a well-earned reputation for flexibility in their suspension packages. I would encourage anyone interested in doing some careful experimentation.<!--coloro:#FF0000--><span style="color:#FF0000"><!--/coloro--> <b>CHECK AND RECORD YOUR EXISTING SETTINGS, KNOW WHAT YOUR STOCK SETTINGS SHOULD BE, WRITE DOWN YOUR CHANGES.</b> <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> All it takes is two minutes and a screwdriver to set everything back if you don't like it.

Jeff, Some time ago you gave me the following setting for my 07. The bike now has 12K miles on the clock. I weigh 150lbs and never ride two up. I have side bags only. You suggested the following settings and they seem to perform well. Do you suggest these setting now?
Front Preload 2 segemnts visable

Rebound 8 clicks

Compression 8 clicks

Rear Rebound 8 clicks

I've been running the rear setting at hard

Thanks for your informative assistance.

 

[HaulinAshe]

Jeff, Some time ago you gave me the following setting for my 07. The bike now has 12K miles on the clock. I weigh 150lbs and never ride two up. I have side bags only. You suggested the following settings and they seem to perform well. Do you suggest these setting now?

Front Preload 2 segemnts visable

Rebound 8 clicks

Compression 8 clicks

Rear Rebound 8 clicks

I've been running the rear setting at hard

Thanks for your informative assistance.

Art,

At a rider weight of 150 lbs., running what I call an 8x8x8 (8-by-8-by-8) setup is a good start. That means 8-clicks Front Rebound, 8-clicks Front Compression, 8-clicks Rear Rebound. You should be able to adjust the ride comfort easily by backing off Front Compression to 12-clicks for those long slab rides.

The Front Preload isn't really a preload at all, but a ride height adjuster. If the bike doesn't turn quick enough for you, raise the adjuster (more segments/lines visible) and that will quicken the turn-in.

 

[bthomas]

I literally ready every segment of this post and other on this and got my manual out, studied up and tackled it this past weekend. It is better than it was. The pillion say so too. It went with 2,8,8 and 6 on the back with the lever on hard. I weigh 220 and the pillion weighs 120. Any suggestions on improvement here?

Thanks

 

[bthomas]

Really, has my little post killed this ongoing thread? Sometime I wonder if I am the only one that really sees my own post or is this forum just too cliquish for me?

 

[LAF]

Really, has my little post killed this ongoing thread? Sometime I wonder if I am the only one that really sees my own post or is this forum just too cliquish for me?

Not you at all. Chill and if someone has anything to add for you, they will.

This is a well covered topic and one that is personal taste and choice in your style of ridding. If all the information you read does not get you where you need to be you may need to look at aftermarket shock or re springing the OEM shock, springs and valves for the front forks. Hell you just may need to drain the forks proper, and put new oil in the forks?

At any rate just relax and let someone have a chance to read it and add if they can.

 

[Blind Squirrel]

Really, has my little post killed this ongoing thread? Sometime I wonder if I am the only one that really sees my own post or is this forum just too cliquish for me?

Not you at all. Chill and if someone has anything to add for you, they will.

This is a well covered topic and one that is personal taste and choice in your style of ridding. If all the information you read does not get you where you need to be you may need to look at aftermarket shock or re springing the OEM shock, springs and valves for the front forks. Hell you just may need to drain the forks proper, and put new oil in the forks?

At any rate just relax and let someone have a chance to read it and add if they can.

Like LAF said, suspension is a very personal thing. Now that you have the knowledge of how to set everything, take the time to dial it in to your liking. After you get it dialed in, post up what works for you, as a guide for others to start from.

 

[jmdaniel]

Just got back from an 11 day, 11 state, 5258 mile trip, and before leaving, I set the bike up according to Jeff's recommendations, except for using 2 instead of three on the front pre-load. The bike felt a lot better, and didn't wallow in the corners as much as it had. One thing that was kinda curious about the trip was how much my front PR2 rubbed off on the sides. I was running it at 40 psi, and spent a fair amount of time in the twisties, (CO, NM, AZ, UT, ID, MT, SD), but the tire looks like I took a knife to the sides. I wonder if suspension settings have anything to do with that...

Anyway, thanks Jeff!

 

[GeorgiaRoller]

So I devised compromised settings as follows:

Rider weight: 183 lbs.

Typical Bike Payload: Yamaha side bags and top bag, 25 lbs. added cargo

Riding style: Moderately aggressive, frequent 3-digit speeds, rapid braking and acceleration common.

FRONT

* Preload, Line-2 (this means one line exposed above the cap, one line flush with the cap/adjuster). Stock setting is Line-3.

* Rebound, 6 clicks out. Stock setting is 12-clicks out. (this is the top adjustment)

* Compression, 8 clicks out. Stock setting is 12-clicks out. (this is the bottom adjustment that protrudes off the side of the fork)

REAR

* Preload - Hard (find the lever!)

* Rebound - 6 clicks out. Stock is 10-clicks out. (think of the rear rebound clicker as a right-hand thread)

I weigh 185lbs myself so I went with your adjustments and test rode it tonight both solo & 2up. Solo I especially liked it, I took some high speed sweepers and the bike just felt very nice and tight in the curves, more so than with the stock settings. 2up was fine but I was riding in "hard" mode and even with my 125lb wife on the back it felt perhaps too rigid because of the these adjustments. So I switched to "soft" with her on the back and it felt much smoother. I think I'll just leave it in "soft" mode for both solo & 2up regular riding. I can see myselft switching to "hard" mode when riding solo up in the mountain twisties however for the firmer/tighter feel and better ground clearance.

 

[NBB]

Jeff,

Thanks for posting this information, and the others for their input as well.

I just got my '06 a few short weeks ago and have been getting the quirks ironed out as the original owner must have left things set as delivered.

Using Jeff's settings as a starting point I ended up tweaking the pre-load to 1/3 turn less than 2 lines, compression out another 2 clicks and rear rebound out to 8. Hugh improvement over what settings were when I bought the bike, as side to side most setting, were not any where near equal.

 

[Sparky.88]

Wanted to give a hearty thanks to HaulinAshe for the primer on setting up the FJR suspension. New tires + properly dialed-in suspension have totally transformed my ride. The new tires provided a tremendous increase in cornering ability / feel. But my bike still had me nervous in relatively high speed curves. It just wasn't stable, especially if any bumps were involved. Turns out the previous owner had the suspension settings very mushy.

After using your guidelines and adjusting a little for my smaller stature, I now have a bike that is stable and handles great at any speed (well... haven't tested it at great speed yet). Rode two-up for a few hours this weekend and it handled great even with the extra weight.

Amazing what a little finessing of the suspension can do for this bike. For a newbie to the FJR like me, your suspension guidance was a godsend. Thanks!

 

[SullyCuse]

Ok. Finally did this, and like SOOOOOO many others, what a difference

Rider weight: 275 lbs.

Typical Bike Payload: Yamaha side bags 25 lbs. added cargo

Riding style: Moderately aggressive, occasional 3-digit speeds

FRONT

* Preload, Line-2 (this means one line exposed above the cap, one line flush with the cap/adjuster).

* Rebound, 7 clicks out. Stock setting is 12-clicks out. (this is the top adjustment)

* Compression, 5 clicks out. Stock setting is 12-clicks out. (this is the bottom adjustment that protrudes off the side of the fork)

REAR

* Preload - Hard (find the lever!)

* Rebound - 5 clicks out. Stock is 10-clicks out. (think of the rear rebound clicker as a right-hand thread)

Hope this helps for some of the bigger fellas out there! May tweak a little later, but just riding today, I can definitely notice a difference and LOVE the bike even more!

 

[Jon_PDX]

Thanks for this thread

I had an interesting result the other day...

First some history......

After reading this thread I figured I better check out how the dealer delivered my bike (left over 2010) a few weeks ago.

Below is what I found.

Front preload: Both @ 3 lines

Front rebound: L @ 12 / R @ 32 (WTF!!!)

Front compression: Both @ 11

Rear preload @ hard

Rear rebound @ 11

Needless to say I was shocked to find the right fork set at 32 on the rebound. I checked it twice to make sure I had not lost my mind.

Funny thing is the ride was not that bad although it did wallow a little in some tight twisties.

So I reset the bike as follows to give me a base line

Front: 3-12-12 (stock 4-12-12)

Rear: Soft - 12

Right away I noticed the bike was a lot harsher and on one section of my test area where there are a lot of dips and bumps the bike beat me up pretty bad. It never felt out of control, but I had to stand a few times to give my body a rest. On the open road (freeway) it ride great).

I did not have those issues when the front rebound was way out. It's hard to tell if it's under or over dampened on rebound or compression at this point. And there is not a lot of change going from soft to hard on the rear. Well at least not as drastic a change as when I corrected the right fork setting.

Now on to my question.......

It appears to me that if I set the front to 3-8-8 (from the current 3-12-12) that it will make the front suspension even stiffer than it currently is. Which should make it ride even harsher when I come across dips and bumps in the road.

Is that correct, or am I missing something?

Sorry for the long post just to get to a short question but I figured some background info would help.

Oh, I'm about 160 in full riding gear.

Jon...

 

[HaulinAshe]

Now on to my question.......

It appears to me that if I set the front to 3-8-8 (from the current 3-12-12) that it will make the front suspension even stiffer than it currently is. Which should make it ride even harsher when I come across dips and bumps in the road.

Is that correct, or am I missing something?

Sorry for the long post just to get to a short question but I figured some background info would help.

Oh, I'm about 160 in full riding gear.

Jon...

At 160 in full riding gear, you are approximately 15 lbs. lighter than the target stock weight. Yamaha's stock settings are typical for a 165 lb. rider (plus gear).

160 lbs. also makes you a definite exception to the typical FJR rider. Most of us can't remember the last time we saw 200 lbs.

The 3-8-8 setup is probably much too harsh/stiff for you.

 

[Jon_PDX]

Thanks for the reply. I had a feeling it would be to harsh/stiff but so many in this thread liked that setting I thought maybe I was missing something in the setup.

I think I'lll take it back to full factory default (from 3 back to 4 on the preload) and go from there then. If I still can't get it right I live about 15 min's from the GP Suspension shop. I'm sure he can help me dial it in.

I hear ya about the target weight. I had some major dental work done, lost about 20 lbs, and for some reason have not gained it back. Maybe it's true when they say we shrink as we get older.......LOL.

Jon...