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Well, I fixed it...Just not sure how. I pulled the fairings, checked the bulb sockets and had no power (no surprise), checked the main headlight relay, it was putting out juice. Checked the hi/lo relay, it wasn't getting any juice. Pulled apart a connector that had a green/blue wire, looked at the spiders that are hanging just under the instrument cluster (they looked fine)...Checked the bulb sockets again, they had power...None of the connectors looked corroded, so I guess something wiggled loose and my messing w/it fixed it. Now I'm off to find some die electric grease to put on the connectors in the hope that this won't happen again...Thanks for the help guys!

Chris

 
Glad that it's working for you but I would not be confident that it is permanently "fixed". Electrical issues due to a poor contact often start out intermittent but are prone to returning - usually at the most inconvenient times. I still think there is a fair chance that you have a relay that is less than 100%. While application of dielectric grease to connectors probably won't hurt anything, I don't think it is is a miraculous cure. However, there really isn't anything you can do to verify the root cause until it screws up (or doesn't screw up) again.

Hopefully, I am wrong!

 
RossKean said:
Glad that it's working for you but I would not be confident that it is permanently "fixed". Electrical issues due to a poor contact often start out intermittent but are prone to returning - usually at the most inconvenient times. I still think there is a fair chance that you have a relay that is less than 100%. While application of dielectric grease to connectors probably won't hurt anything, I don't think it is is a miraculous cure. However, there really isn't anything you can do to verify the root cause until it screws up (or doesn't screw up) again.Hopefully, I am wrong!
Click to expand...
The relay is not expensive and it is easy to replace while you have the plastic off.

 
RossKean said:
Glad that it's working for you but I would not be confident that it is permanently "fixed". Electrical issues due to a poor contact often start out intermittent but are prone to returning - usually at the most inconvenient times. I still think there is a fair chance that you have a relay that is less than 100%. While application of dielectric grease to connectors probably won't hurt anything, I don't think it is is a miraculous cure. However, there really isn't anything you can do to verify the root cause until it screws up (or doesn't screw up) again.Hopefully, I am wrong!
Click to expand...
I agree with Ross and would swap out both headlight relays or at the very least the main one. As I mentioned in my earlier post my experience with this kind of problem has been that the relay contacts are starting to wear/burn, thus decreasing the contact area, which in turn causes them to heat up more and burn more, etc., basically leading up to a runaway failure condition. At a certain point (which you've already briefly experienced) the damage to the relay contacts will be too great to enable them to make contact, even after you giggle it around...

FYI, Eastern Beaver sells these same relays for considerably cheaper than Yamaha.

https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Relays/relays.html

 
I found the actual problem... The connector forward of the battery isn't making good contact. How do I fix this? Everything will be fine, then it gets jostled just a little bit and I lose power...

 
SigepKat said:
I found the actual problem... The connector forward of the battery isn't making good contact. How do I fix this? Everything will be fine, then it gets jostled just a little bit and I lose power...
Click to expand...
Great that you found the culprit. What kind of connector is it? Does it feel loose where it is plugged in or is it more likely the wire itself broken inside the insulation? You can cut and splice the wire easily. If I splice a wire I usually slip a heat shrink tube onto the wire then solder the splice and slide the shrink tube over the splice and heat it up.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
One of the sockets on the female side is toasted. You won't get a reliable connection through that. Either replace the whole works or jumper that pin around the connector. I had a similar occurrence on the left side of the bike.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'll just run a jumper... And to everyone that said "test the headlights", both were burned out. Although, that clearly wasn't the whole problem.

 
I did mention that although it is conceivable for both low beams to be out, it is most unlikely for both high beams to be out as well.

 
SigepKat said:
It's a 6 pin connector - https://goo.gl/photos/uGi4bb4RGEG1Qt8n6 - The brown on the connector in the photo is where the headlight wire goes...I imagine that means something, but I don't know what...Can I just run a jumper over the connector and "bypass" it?
CM
Click to expand...
You could/should replace that connector
wink.png


6 Position 090 HM Connector

Fits wires from .5mm - 1.25mm (22 - 16 AWG). With complete set of terminals. 6P090-HM Set $5.40 https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/090_Connectors/090_connectors.html

6p090-hm_2016.jpg


 
^^^

This is the best solution without question and this vendor makes it easy to get the hard-to-find custom connectors but...

If you are placing an order with Eastern Beaver, get together with some friends and get a bunch of stuff (they have a number of interesting products). The pictured connector is $5.40 but they have a minimum charge of $20.00 and a shipping cost of 20% of the total order price as well (for $20 to $90). Not awful but I would at least pad the order up to the $20.00.

https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Company/Shipping/shipping.html

 
If the FJR was newer I would probably replace the entire connector as suggested above, but for an '05, I would simply snip the two wires off of the connector and splice in a jumper. You can always replace the entire connector and restore the wiring to original in the future if you feel the need. If you think you may want to disconnect that connector for some reason then use a single connector for the jumper and zip tie it to the larger connector.

 
Geezer said:
If the FJR was newer I would probably replace the entire connector as suggested above, but for an '05, I would simply snip the two wires off of the connector and splice in a jumper. You can always replace the entire connector and restore the wiring to original in the future if you feel the need. If you think you may want to disconnect that connector for some reason then use a single connector for the jumper and zip tie it to the larger connector.
Click to expand...
Profile says '05 but he mentions '09 in the original post.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Unfortunately, I need the fast fix because I have to ride to Austin (from San Antonio) tomorrow for work. I'd take my truck, but it's a 75 Bronco that gets a hot 8mpg and is...questionable...for long drives...

 
I would say that you have a corroded connector in there somewhere, and fiddling with it fixed it - for now.

(oh crap.. just saw there was a page 2!)

 

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