Oil drain plug + washer won't seal

[Donal]

I prefer to use Dowty Seals - https://www.earls.co.uk/earls/accessories/seals.html

Their part number DW010 fits perfectly.

Don

 

[Shatho]

I ended up installing a time-sert. Works great now!

 

[dustyrains]

Sure sounds like stripped threads. I have never replaced my used crush washer. Just keep re-using it and it never leaks.

 

[mikerider]

I installed the Fumoto valve on all my bikes and cars the first time I changed the oil and I never had to remove the drain plug anymore.

I don't know how much room you have on the FJR. Here is one on my CBR1100XX and I had to use a spacer only because the oil drain hole is recessed.

 

[na1g]

The TimeSert thread repair is the best way to go. As good as the original, probably better. I try to have a new crush washer on hand for oil changes - the cost is minimal compared to the oil and filter - but confess to re-using the old one sometimes. No runs, no drips, no errors.

pete

 

[pegscraper]

My negative experience using Yamaha's recommended torque:

With torque wrench in hand, I followed the recommended torque and stripped the threads. :angry2:

I had Temecula Motor Sports install a "timesert" which worked for 2 oil changes until the "timesert" came out with the bolt removal on the 3rd oil change. The shop claimed they applied adheasive when installing the "timesert". So they were kind enough to trailer my bike to the shop, where they installed a new oil pan.

Lesson learned, do not follow Yamaha's recommended over zealous torque for this task. I now tighten until snug and add about another 1/4 turn, enough to crimp the Yamaha washer.

 

[Crash Cash]

I installed the Fumoto valve on all my bikes and cars the first time I changed the oil and I never had to remove the drain plug anymore.

I had one of those on my DL-650, and I took it off because it leaves a big pool of used oil in the sump, and I want to change ALL the oil. I could drain it through the valve, then remove the valve and a lot more oil came out.

Personally I've never seen what the big deal was on oil pan drain bolt torque. You torque it until the crush washer stops crushing. That's it. There's no force on the bolt, so there's no need to tighten it down until metal screams. Just a little tug on the wrench after it bottoms out. Any "torque requirement" is bogus.

 

[JET]

not to dig up an old thread but...... does anybody know the model/part number of the timesert that fits our bikes? I have a 2005

 

[Bill]

Would you happen to have the Honda part # for those Honda flat aluminum washers by any chance? I am not sure which Honda model to look up the p/n from.

Thanks for your help.

I think that it's the same washer that fits on almost every Honda motorcycle and automobile. If a Honda automobile dealership is closer than a motorcycle dealership, then just go there. I think that the auto dealerships charge something like $.25 for the things.

Here they are for $.23 Honda Drain Plug Washers

 

[JET]

Hey Bill, I was looking for the timesert not the washer. But thanks for the heads up on that!

I talked to my local yammy dealer, not sure who I got, but they didn't even know what a timesert was. So now I'm thinking about getting a new pan and having a closer shop (Honda) install it. Just need to find the new pan, I'm supposed to head out on a trip Friday...

 

[Wemi]

https://wingstuff.com/pgroup_detail/359_Oil_Filters_Wrench/27850_GL1500_GL1800_Gold_Wing_Crush_Washers_10_Pack/?goto=/pgroup_list/gl1800/359_goldwing_Oil_Filters_Wrench/des/https://www.cyclemaxohio.com/inc/sdetail/58611

Here are a couple of sources. You can buy individually at Cyclemax and they will ship USPS I think. You could also try a hardware supply, as it is just an aluminum washer, 14mm ID, OD not that important. Note, you use this on the rear final drive also. My FJR had them on it when I got it (1800 miles), and had been changed by the dealer at first oil change.

The OEM Honda washer is more money, of course.

My dealer uses these flat non crush washers on all bikes now. Honda, Yamaha, etc. on my 2015 all the crush washers, oil pan and rear end were changed for these. I also installed a gold plug magnetic drain bolt with that aluminum washer. All only nice and snug. NO weird torque numbers. Everything tight and dry.