Suspension Issue?

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atxrider

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Hello All,

I was attempting to adjust my suspension to setting specified by HaulinAshe and may have inadvertantly screwed up my rear shock. I attempted to tighten the shock initially, but could not get it to budge, so I backed it out to see how many clicks it would go. I went six or so and the clicking stopped. I retightened and it only allowed me to go tighten to six.

I rode it again and it seem to ride rougher...and the bike seems to be lower. I am sure a bit of paranoia is clouding my memory...so my question is: What is the best way to diagnose the effectiveness of the shock? I know I should be able to adjust it at least 15 or more clicks from where it was.

Any help would be appreciated. Let me know if you need more specifics.

Regards,

Davy

 
I am wondering if you have the stock shock. If so then I think there is something definately wrong with it.

Edit: The bike hight shouldn't change. If I am right the adjustment only changes the rebound.

 
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There are two adjustments on the stock shock

a. The preload switch (hard or soft, under left lower rear sub-frame rail)

b. The damping adjuster know (located on the bottom of the shock unit, plastic wheel with finger notches)

I'm working on the assumption you're talking about B. There should be a range of about 22 clicks of adjustment. This adjustment should not affect ride height. The only thing that could adjust ride height would be the preload switch A.

If the damping knob (B ) was set to a higher damping rate that before, the ride could indeed be rough. The "clicks" referred to are a spring detent in the mechanism. You could also verify that you have the full adjustment range by measuring the number of turns (i.e. 3 1/4 turns) of adjustment range. If you got gunk in one of your detent notches, you could be missing a click there. My guess if you just didn't feel them, it'd be hard to jack up a shock so bad the compression knob loses it's clicks.

 
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I am wondering if you have the stock shock. If so then I think there is something definately wrong with it.
Edit: The bike hight shouldn't change. If I am right the adjustment only changes the rebound.
Yes, I am running the stocker. I just realized I changed the preload as well to soft. :dribble: Might explain the lower bike?

Regards,

Davy

 
There are two adjustments on the stock shocka. The preload switch (hard or soft, under left lower rear sub-frame rail)

b. The damping adjuster know (located on the bottom of the shock unit, plastic wheel with finger notches)

I'm working on the assumption you're talking about B. There should be a range of about 22 clicks of adjustment. This adjustment should not affect ride height. The only thing that could adjust ride height would be the preload switch A.

If the damping knob (B ) was set to a higher damping rate that before, the ride could indeed be rough. The "clicks" referred to are a spring detent in the mechanism. You could also verify that you have the full adjustment range by measuring the number of turns (i.e. 3 1/4 turns) of adjustment range. If you got gunk in one of your detent notches, you could be missing a click there. My guess if you just didn't feel them, it'd be hard to jack up a shock so bad the compression knob loses it's clicks.
Hey Slap,

Sorry if I was not clear, I am talking about the damper. I will check the number of turns. Is there a definitive stopping point when I have gone to the limit for loosening (extending?) the shock?

Regards,

Davy

 
The knob gets stiff to turn at either extreme of the adjustment range. It should not take much force to turn within the adjustment range.

 
Sorry if I was not clear, I am talking about the damper. I will check the number of turns. Is there a definitive stopping point when I have gone to the limit for loosening (extending?) the shock?
Yes, don't go there!!!

I've NEVER encountered anyone who needed the rear rebound set beyond 10 clicks. 6-8 is average. Always go back to the closed position and then count clicks out/CCW. Feel free to clean that area with some WD-40 and a toothbrush and rag.

Preload to SOFT will make the bike sit lower.

If you are feeling the rear is a bit "harsh" or stiff, set your rear rebound to 8 clicks, preload to SOFT, then go ride.

 
I have never putzed with my rear rebound damping adjustment, so I have no experience to draw upon, but I seem to remember reading years ago that screwing the rebound all the way out was a BAD THING as the damper rod can come detached from the mechanism somehow.

Do I remember this being an issue or am I remembering something else?

 
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I really thinkl you need to bring your bike to the Hondarosa so I can test it for, oh, about 10 weeks or so.

By then I'll have it 'dialed in' for yah!

Seriously, I'd do that for you, as my Feejer is broken and I need a fast ride about now...

:rolleyes:

 
The knob gets stiff to turn at either extreme of the adjustment range. It should not take much force to turn within the adjustment range.

[Yes, don't go there!!!I've NEVER encountered anyone who needed the rear rebound set beyond 10 clicks. 6-8 is average. Always go back to the closed position and then count clicks out/CCW. Feel free to clean that area with some WD-40 and a toothbrush and rag.

Preload to SOFT will make the bike sit lower.

If you are feeling the rear is a bit "harsh" or stiff, set your rear rebound to 8 clicks, preload to SOFT, then go ride.
Thanks guys. I did a little cleaning and was able to count out the correct number of clicks. I settle on 6 for now (6', 190) and it rides great. I think it was a combo of dirt and turning a bit too fast.

I have never putzed with my rear rebound damping adjustment, so I have no experience to draw upon, but I seem to remember reading years ago that screwing the rebound all the way out was a BAD THING as the damper rod can come detached from the mechanism somehow.
Do I remember this being an issue or am I remembering something else?
Thank God I didnt get too overzealous with the turning!

I really thinkl you need to bring your bike to the Hondarosa so I can test it for, oh, about 10 weeks or so. By then I'll have it 'dialed in' for yah!

Seriously, I'd do that for you, as my Feejer is broken and I need a fast ride about now...

:rolleyes:
I had read about your deerstrike. Are you getting a new FJR or fixing the old one? If you had asked me 3 months ago, I might have taken you up on the offer. It is so damn hot in Central Texas in the summer (even so, I commuted every day)...but now, with the good temps right around the corner...

 
Sorry if I was not clear, I am talking about the damper. I will check the number of turns. Is there a definitive stopping point when I have gone to the limit for loosening (extending?) the shock?
Yes, don't go there!!!

I've NEVER encountered anyone who needed the rear rebound set beyond 10 clicks. 6-8 is average. Always go back to the closed position and then count clicks out/CCW. Feel free to clean that area with some WD-40 and a toothbrush and rag.

Preload to SOFT will make the bike sit lower.

If you are feeling the rear is a bit "harsh" or stiff, set your rear rebound to 8 clicks, preload to SOFT, then go ride.
when you say preload are you talking about the outside adjustment for 2 riders or a section on the shock itself?

 
Preload is the outside adjustment on the left rear side of your bike. The two choices are hard and soft.

regards,

Davy

 
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