Throttle body sync

[artistic rider]

Alright I screwed up everything. How can I make sure I have everything set back to original on the throttle body and go from there. I have a Motion Pro which worked great the first time on the FJR and on the Ural. For some reason my throttle bodies are trying to suck it dry now so I can't sync them. Yeah I know I should have stopped and not messed with them. Do I need to screw the screws all the way in and back it out a half round or all the way out and back it in? What about the idle screw? Yeah I screwed with that too. I am so glad its not Friday. :headbonk:

 

[cougar8000]

what exactly do you mean when you are saying you screwed up everything. What did you do?

Party at Victors house this weekend

 

[0Face]

Not sure what you have going on there.

More info please...

about the party too

 

[Gary]

Stolen from a post by Radman in April of '07.

I've been doing synch's in a different fashion after having done a few hi-speed unauthorized synchs and a few regular (normal) synchs. I've found this method gives very accurate vac readings with little additional work.

1) Set up gauge etc normally.

2) Adjust all the TB bleed screws to 1/2 turn open. This eliminates the bleed settings from the equation.

3) Check readings

4) Now, rather than adjust bleed screws, adjust the throttle plate screws to get even readings instead. At idle.

5) Crank rpm's to 4500 and observe readings, adjust plate screws as needed-shouldn't take but the smallest adjustment to get all in line.

6) Allow bike to idle, adjust idle speed, NOW adjust bleed screws for even readings. Once again, should be pretty damn close.

7) Buzz up to 4500 rpm's again. Bleed settings will alter speed settings very slightly, unless a bleed screw is cranked way out of whack compared to the others-3 turns out on #2 for instance. This indicates something is crossed up, reset all to 1/2 turn and start over.

8) Bleed screws should only need the slightest adjustment to even up the idle numbers. Actually, if all is happy in motorville, you may find they need no adjustment at all, other than turning all down 1/4 turn to get idle speed to about 1000-1100 rpm. Mine are all at about 1/2 turn, this seems to be best.

Keep in mind a synch is done to get 4 cylinders to operate as one-this is the key to smoothness and good power/mileage/rideability. Done right, with care and attention to detail, you won't believe how smooth you can get this motor to run. Another suggestion is to do the high speed adjust at the rpm you find yourself using most often, though the 4500 tends to be the peak vibe number for this motor

 

[artistic rider]

Not sure exactly what I did to be honest. I saw Rad's post and tried it. The only thing is when I adjust all my screws to 1/2 open the engine will not run. So then I started screwing with the idle screw and went from bad to worst. Guess I should have counted then turns in as I did it. Lesson learned there. So now I have it running again but I'm not sure where everything is. I have the screws adjust quite a few turns out. @ 4 complete turns minimum for it to run. When I try using the Motion Pro it sucks the liquid to the top even when the setting on the Motion Pro are at minimal. So why didn't it run at 1/2 a turn out? And that #2 cylinder is the real bitch. Even when I get the other levels down on the Motion Pro, #2 still sucks the liquid up. Hey Cougar, would love to have a garage day but I have to do 16 hrs this Sat and next. Only 8 on each Sunday. Lucky me. :glare:

 

[Gary]

When you say screws, are you referring to the air screws, or the screws on the linkage?

 

[artistic rider]

The air screws. Haven't touched the linkage yet.

 

[cougar8000]

Victor, let us know when you are available. If you want I can take a car and bring my mercury sticks, not sur if it would make a difference thou.

 

[radman]

The above was written for Gen I bikes-not sure of it's applicability to a Gen II machine, as I have yet to tune one. The bleed screws on the throttle bodies themselves on the Gen I are the only way, other than actual throttle blade adjustments, to fine tune vacumn readings-this is, I understand, not necessarily so on the Gen II's. It's always a good idea, regardless of machine vintage, to note original settings, in case the unforeseen occurs. Seems like that would have been a good idea in this case. I think the small orifice limiters have not been installed in the MP's individual tubes, the FJR's I've done cannot develop enough vacumn to max the scale, even if revved to the limiter and the throttle chopped.

 

[Gary]

I'm stumped. I use a set of mercury sticks that came with a variety of restrictors, (individual restrictors in each hose). Since the motion pro worked fine the first time, I'm wondering if there's a leaking vacuum hose somewhere in the mix...

You could also cross #2 with another cylinder and verify it's the bike and not the tool...(connect hose #2 to cylinder #3 and vice-versa)

 

[artistic rider]

The above was written for Gen I bikes-not sure of it's applicability to a Gen II machine, as I have yet to tune one. The bleed screws on the throttle bodies themselves on the Gen I are the only way, other than actual throttle blade adjustments, to fine tune vacumn readings-this is, I understand, not necessarily so on the Gen II's. It's always a good idea, regardless of machine vintage, to note original settings, in case the unforeseen occurs. Seems like that would have been a good idea in this case. I think the small orifice limiters have not been installed in the MP's individual tubes, the FJR's I've done cannot develop enough vacumn to max the scale, even if revved to the limiter and the throttle chopped.

Yep. You are right. I usually make note of my start points. One of the times I don't and I guess it bit me in the ass. But the orifices are in the tubes. I think you gave me the piece I needed tho. I was trying to hard to make it work your way but as you said you have an '05. Going thru my manual it also says " caution do not use throttle valve adjusting a screws for throttle body sync.". Guess God does watch over fools. That would have been a problem had I tried that. Anyway I'll have it going soon. Thanks for the help.

 

[artistic rider]

OK. I talked to Motion Pro and it turned out the unit I had was sent out without enough of the manometer fluid. They have revised how much fluid they put in thier SyncPro but mine was sent out before it was done. They are sending me manometer fluid at no charge. Thats why the fjr was sucking it up into the rubber lines, not enugh fluid. Also the first time I did the sync the idle was set at @900 or so and when I did it the 2nd time I had since raised it to 1100. All in all it should all be well by the time the fluid arrives this week. I should have at least another 30 to 45 days before it snows to much to ride.

 

[cougar8000]

Does it mean crime rate in Harvey is going to come down and letter carriers will be able to finally start delivering mail?

On the serious note. I hope you are not effected by that problem.

 

[artistic rider]

Does it mean crime rate in Harvey is going to come down and letter carriers will be able to finally start delivering mail?




On the serious note. I hope you are not effected by that problem.

Nope, no effect on me. Pansy ass postal carriers. Find any reason not to deliver the wrong mail to your house. Hmmm...now that I think about it, my ex wife is a postal carrier and she lives in Harvey. <_< I can see why they are shooting!

DAMN IT!!!! They are delivering my manometer fluid! :angry:

 

[cougar8000]

hehe

 

[artistic rider]

Last post on this topic I hope. Received the fluid from Motion Pro. The SyncPro worked perfectly. The FJR has never ran smoother. The vibes at 4000 rpm's are even less. Makes me think it wasn't working all that great the first time I calibrated it. The ride into work was a butter smooth ride. Thanks all for your help and now get out there and ride! :yahoo: