Tools for TBSync

[Constant Mesh]

Using two of these fittings to connect the four tubes at the bottom might be a little easier to visualize. The bottom of each F fitting would connect to the other F fitting, which would connect all four tubes together.

https://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....egoryCode=4016C

 

[SPORT]

Here is a link somebody might find interesting: www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp
2 tube yardstick thingy.

B)

Awesome find! Thanks ZZZZZIP.

I'll be building one next week.

 

[Capt. Bob]

Here is a link somebody might find interesting: www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp
2 tube yardstick thingy.

B)

Awesome find! Thanks ZZZZZIP.

I'll be building one next week.

Looks like what WW described in an earlier post in this thread

Fixed the link. Clicky

 

[SPORT]

Here is a link somebody might find interesting: www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp
2 tube yardstick thingy.

B)

Awesome find! Thanks ZZZZZIP.

I'll be building one next week.

Looks like what WW described in an earlier post in this thread

Fixed the link. Clicky

Exactly!

 

[Constant Mesh]

The four tube device is far preferable to the U-tube manometer. It's annoying to have to shut down the engine to move the tube between the three TB's. Also, for reasons I don't fully understand, when you adjust one of the TB's it often affects the adjustment of the others you just completed. So you may have to make two round trips of the three TB's to feel good about your adjusting session.

Even when the engine speed doesn't change during the adjustments if you go back and check an earlier adjustment it'll often be off a bit from your earlier fine tuning. So it's better to see all four readings simultaneously so you can monitor and tweak what's happening.

 

[dsmack]

The four tube device is far preferable to the U-tube manometer. It's annoying to have to shut down the engine to move the tube between the three TB's. Also, for reasons I don't fully understand, when you adjust one of the TB's it often affects the adjustment of the others you just completed. So you may have to make two round trips of the three TB's to feel good about your adjusting session.
Even when the engine speed doesn't change during the adjustments if you go back and check an earlier adjustment it'll often be off a bit from your earlier fine tuning. So it's better to see all four readings simultaneously so you can monitor and tweak what's happening.

Perzacktly!

... and Happy Thanksgiving, everyone! :drinks:

Don

 

[mattster31]

Has this 4-port syncing system worked well for those who've built it? I have a 2-port system (U-tube manometer) I built and it works well. But a 4-port would be better since you wouldn't need to stop the engine when connecting to other TB's.

I built a 4 tube system in the spring almost identical to Ricksters unit, and it works great!! You can save a few bucks and feel like MaGyver at the same time.

 

[SPORT]

The four tube device is far preferable to the U-tube manometer. It's annoying to have to shut down the engine to move the tube between the three TB's. Also, for reasons I don't fully understand, when you adjust one of the TB's it often affects the adjustment of the others you just completed. So you may have to make two round trips of the three TB's to feel good about your adjusting session.
Even when the engine speed doesn't change during the adjustments if you go back and check an earlier adjustment it'll often be off a bit from your earlier fine tuning. So it's better to see all four readings simultaneously so you can monitor and tweak what's happening.

Correct me if I'm wrong;

Then I ought to be able to add a 4-way 'T' at the bottom of the yard stick, connect the 4 lines to it, mount those four lines up the yard stick, and fill to the desired level.

At this point I should be able to connect all four at once. Is this not the same concept?

 

[slo-ride]

The four tube device is far preferable to the U-tube manometer. It's annoying to have to shut down the engine to move the tube between the three TB's. Also, for reasons I don't fully understand, when you adjust one of the TB's it often affects the adjustment of the others you just completed. So you may have to make two round trips of the three TB's to feel good about your adjusting session.
Even when the engine speed doesn't change during the adjustments if you go back and check an earlier adjustment it'll often be off a bit from your earlier fine tuning. So it's better to see all four readings simultaneously so you can monitor and tweak what's happening.

Correct me if I'm wrong;

Then I ought to be able to add a 4-way 'T' at the bottom of the yard stick, connect the 4 lines to it, mount those four lines up the yard stick, and fill to the desired level.

At this point I should be able to connect all four at once. Is this not the same concept?

So Sport, did you try your method? If so, how did it work?

 

[SPORT]

I did not. I ended up using the Rikster method (post#10), and it worked fairly well at idle, though the fluid bounced considerably. However, at 3,000 RPM #3 vacuum dropped on the home made Manometer. Apparently I have a leak somewhere in the tube. Should be just adding teflon tape to the threaded portions. But since I wasn't able to test it against a standard I ended up buying the Morgan Carb tuner as well.

Now that I have the Morgan Tuner, I have no need to utilize the home made.

All in all, the dealer was gonna charge me $160 for a single TBS. I paid $145 for both tuners and the ability to do it as much as I like. You could say I'm still ahead

I may remove the PVC pipes and just plug the clear tubes in to see if the PVC's were necessary. I'll report back when I do.

 

[slo-ride]

I did not. I ended up using the Rikster method (post#10), and it worked fairly well at idle, though the fluid bounced considerably. However, at 3,000 RPM #3 vacuum dropped on the home made Manometer. Apparently I have a leak somewhere in the tube. Should be just adding teflon tape to the threaded portions. But since I wasn't able to test it against a standard I ended up buying the Morgan Carb tuner as well. Now that I have the Morgan Tuner, I have no need to utilize the home made.

All in all, the dealer was gonna charge me $160 for a single TBS. I paid $145 for both tuners and the ability to do it as much as I like. You could say I'm still ahead

I may remove the PVC pipes and just plug the clear tubes in to see if the PVC's were necessary. I'll report back when I do.

Thanks for the update. I'll be building the manometer myself as I have no budget for any more farkles. My dealer charges $180.00 for TBS and spark plug change which is not that bad but I want to do it my own darn self.

 

[SPORT]

If your in the neighborhood, I have a slightly used homebuilt TB tool for sell.

 

[slo-ride]

If your in the neighborhood, I have a slightly used homebuilt TB tool for sell.

Is that the manometer itself or another tool that is required that I don't know about? I live near Atlanta.

 

[SPORT]

If your in the neighborhood, I have a slightly used homebuilt TB tool for sell.

Is that the manometer itself or another tool that is required that I don't know about? I live near Atlanta.

It the home made manometer, just like Post #10 of this thread. Pics available on request

PM me if interested

Rick

 

[FJRGuy]

Rather than start a new thread, I thought I'd just revive this one again...

I'm about to build one of these tools, with some modifications (one might even say improvements! ) but have a question I cannot find the answer to:

Typically, how far off are the vacuums from each other when using Transmission Oil?

What would be the worst case scenario? I assume at some point the engine wouldn't run.

 

[aroostook]

Rather than start a new thread, I thought I'd just revive this one again...
I'm about to build one of these tools, with some modifications (one might even say improvements! ) but have a question I cannot find the answer to:

Typically, how far off are the vacuums from each other when using Transmission Oil?

What would be the worst case scenario? I assume at some point the engine wouldn't run.

Very ironic you are mentioning this today as I just this morning printed off the parts list with the intention of doing this as well. Sorry I have no answers but I have all kinds of interest Please keep us posted on your progress. Thanks from Maine!

 

[slo-ride]

I built my own TBS tool soon after reading this thread. Here are some photos and videos. This worked really well and, now that I have it, I'll be using it time and time again.

 

[aroostook]

Slow ride, what with the all the tubes on top, did you just choose to do it different and if so why? The other thing I'm wondering is if you would have used something heavier (oil?) if the measurement/movements would have been less? Never having made one or used one what the hell do I know ! Great pics and video by the way.

 

[slo-ride]

Slow ride, what with the all the tubes on top, did you just choose to do it different and if so why? The other thing I'm wondering is if you would have used something heavier (oil?) if the measurement/movements would have been less? Never having made one or used one what the hell do I know ! Great pics and video by the way.

I built it pretty much like the link to the previous, previous thread stated. I think in that photo (the one you may be comparing to) the actual tubes that connect to the throttle bodies were not shown. So...it looks a bit neater than mine. I just used plain ol' water because the relationship between the rise and fall of a column of water and the pressure required to do so (in other words...how much pressure does it take to raise water 1 inch) is well known. Plus, I'm cheap and didn't want to buy anything else. This was a fun project.

Just a side note...I used pipe dope to seal all the joints. As the joints cure, fumes are exhausted both to the inside and outside of the pipes. The inside fumes are trapped so purge the entire system with water first in order to force the fumes out. I did this by sucking on one end of the tube and, by doing so, got a fully inhaled breath of fumes which is how I discovered them. Live and learn. :dribble:

 

[aroostook]

Slow ride, what with the all the tubes on top, did you just choose to do it different and if so why? The other thing I'm wondering is if you would have used something heavier (oil?) if the measurement/movements would have been less? Never having made one or used one what the hell do I know ! Great pics and video by the way.

I built it pretty much like the link to the previous, previous thread stated. I think in that photo (the one you may be comparing to) the actual tubes that connect to the throttle bodies were not shown. So...it looks a bit neater than mine. I just used plain ol' water because the relationship between the rise and fall of a column of water and the pressure required to do so (in other words...how much pressure does it take to raise water 1 inch) is well known. Plus, I'm cheap and didn't want to buy anything else. This was a fun project.

Just a side note...I used pipe dope to seal all the joints. As the joints cure, fumes are exhausted both to the inside and outside of the pipes. The inside fumes are trapped so purge the entire system with water first in order to force the fumes out. I did this by sucking on one end of the tube and, by doing so, got a fully inhaled breath of fumes which is how I discovered them. Live and learn. :dribble:

OHHHH of course....I'm not sure what the hell I was thinking but it never occured to me that the pic didnt show the tubes that actually go the bike! I'll definately remember not to do the bong hit haahaha I'm sure FJRguy and I will keep you posted. Im curious about his refinements.