Clutch Soak with SH_26

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FJRPittsburgh

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I completed the clutch soak and reinstalled the plates, etc and buttoned everything back up. Went to take the bike for a short spin to check out the shift smoothness. Turned on the key and got a SH_26 and bike wont start. SH_26 denotes the MCU detected abnormal movement of the clutch. When I was removing one of the 6 bolts on the face of the clutch the clutch turned ever so slightly counter clockwise. I believe this may be the issue. Does anyone know how to clear the SH_26 code or have a direction for me to head next. I tried disconnnecting the battery for a minute, but that didn't work. I've done lots of research on this forum and am coming up empty. Please help. Thanks.

Jeff

 
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I've been studying the service manual and am about to pull my hair out. I tried holding the starter button in while turning the key simultaneously. Bike started. Put it in first gear, turned the throttle and it wouldn't move. Then got a Sh__13 code. Wow. Now I'm in way over my head. The positive thing I have going here is everything was fine before I removed the plates for the clutch soak. I was very careful to replace everything as I found it and torqued all bolts to spec. Tomorrow I'm taking it apart again and reinspecting everything. I don't know what to look for besides making sure the plates, etc. are in the proper order. (which I'm sure they are) I followed mcatrophy's pictoral to the letter as he did such a great job. Maybe I can try to turn the clutch a bit clockwise although that seems far fetched. Out of ideas for now.

 
SH_26 sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging on power up test. Either that or it is already disengaged before the test. Must be something that happened when re-assembling. Something isn't lined up right. Rotational position of the clutch shouldn't matter.

There is a long clutch push rod and a short one. Did you pull out the ball bearing that goes in between them when you removed the short push rod? And remember to put it back in? I think I remember someone else having similar clutch difficulty (On an A), but don't recall which parts were assembled wrong.

Edit: Found the one I was thinking of. It was the clutch cover not being aligned and seated correctly. Link

Hopefully by eyeballing them again you'll see what isn't lined up right.

Edit: I just did a google search on "clutch soak disengage" and found this thread. Same error. Apparently with the clutch plates removed the slave will run the push rod out all the way? Did you happen to notice that the clutch was being held disengaged when you reassembled it? It should clamp up tight as you tighten up the spring retainer screws.

 
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I completed the clutch soak and reinstalled the plates, etc and buttoned everything back up. Went to take the bike for a short spin to check out the shift smoothness. Turned on the key and got a SH_26 and bike wont start. SH_26 denotes the MCU detected abnormal movement of the clutch. When I was removing one of the 6 bolts on the face of the clutch the clutch turned ever so slightly counter clockwise. I believe this may be the issue. Does anyone know how to clear the SH_26 code or have a direction for me to head next. I tried disconnnecting the battery for a minute, but that didn't work. I've done lots of research on this forum and am coming up empty. Please help. Thanks.
Jeff
When I did my soak, I got this error. My cure was to take the clutch apart and put it together again, taking special care that the ring at the back was properly seated (most likely the cause) and that the splines were properly aligned (unlikely the cause).

I'll post references when I'm back at base (about 5 hours hopefully).

 
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SH_26 sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging on power up test. Either that or it is already disengaged before the test. Must be something that happened when re-assembling. Something isn't lined up right. Rotational position of the clutch shouldn't matter.

There is a long clutch push rod and a short one. Did you pull out the ball bearing that goes in between them when you removed the short push rod? And remember to put it back in? I think I remember someone else having similar clutch difficulty (On an A), but don't recall which parts were assembled wrong.

Edit: Found the one I was thinking of. It was the clutch cover not being aligned and seated correctly. Link

Hopefully by eyeballing them again you'll see what isn't lined up right.

Edit: I just did a google search on "clutch soak disengage" and found this thread. Same error. Apparently with the clutch plates removed the slave will run the push rod out all the way? Did you happen to notice that the clutch was being held disengaged when you reassembled it? It should clamp up tight as you tighten up the spring retainer screws.
Thanks for the reply Fred. There were no long or short push rods or even bearings to deal with during this procedure. I did find both of the links you recommended while searching the forum with Google yesterday, but didn't get enough info out of them to solve the problem. I'm taking the clutch back apart and rechecking everything. I was so sure I buttoned it up perfectly and was kind of shocked when I got the SH__26 Error.

 
I completed the clutch soak and reinstalled the plates, etc and buttoned everything back up. Went to take the bike for a short spin to check out the shift smoothness. Turned on the key and got a SH_26 and bike wont start. SH_26 denotes the MCU detected abnormal movement of the clutch. When I was removing one of the 6 bolts on the face of the clutch the clutch turned ever so slightly counter clockwise. I believe this may be the issue. Does anyone know how to clear the SH_26 code or have a direction for me to head next. I tried disconnnecting the battery for a minute, but that didn't work. I've done lots of research on this forum and am coming up empty. Please help. Thanks.

Jeff
When I did my soak, I got this error. My cure was to take the clutch apart and put it together again, takinf special care that the ring at the back was properly seated (most likely the cause) and that the splines were properly aligned (unlikely the cause).

I'll post references when I'm back at base (about 5 hours hopefully).
Thanks mcatrophy. Your pictoral on how to do the job made it so easy to complete. I guess with all the extra sensors in the AE (AS) models, I should have been prepared for some type of issue, but it took me by surprise. I'll anxiously await your references. I didn't sleep well last night because I kept thinking I screwed something up and might have to get the dealer involved. Let's try to keep this thing out of the dealer's hands. So far, all the service on the bike has been in my garage and I'd like to keep it that way. :) Now it's time for me to head back to the garage and redo the job.

 
After the fiasco of trying to start the bike and being successful by holding in the starter button while turning the key on, I now have the bike stuck in 1st gear. Does anyone know if I can still disassemble the clutch while being in gear? I don't want any more surprises. :black eye:

 
OK. Reassembled the clutch. All went well. One problem I created yesterday was inserting the the seating ring first and then the last clutch plate. Wrong. I corrected it. Last clutch plate in first and then the seating ring with the white dot. From there installed the rest of the plates and finished the job. Upon starting the bike, it was still in first from yesterdays problems. I pushed the bike back some and then the trigger toggled the gears back to neutral. Started bike. Shifted back into first, revved the motor and the bike will not move forward and the SH__26 came back. Discouraging to say the least. I'll wait to hear from mcatrophy or anyone else who may have ideas. The clutch is definitely assembled properly. I was in the diag also yesterday on the instrument panel. Don't do this when you are tired and frustrated like I was at the time. Is there some way to set the clutch to disengage at a specific rpm? Help please.

Thanks,

Jeff

 
Turn ignition on, wait for error, quickly cycle ignition off then on. Shift year run engine, change gear lots. Repeat. Error likely will go away.

You'll also need to bleed system as error is probably caused by that even tho it wasn't present before. I had same problem as you on soak. Got it rideable by cycling but had to bleed to make shifts smooth.

 
Ps took me a lot of shifting ans ignition cycling to get rid of it. Did horrible judder on riding but eventually went away.

Bleeding is the main cure.

 
Sounds good! Well, as good as it can sound. :) I appreciate you replying to my cry for help. I'll give it a shot and post back later.

Thanks,

Jeff

 
Turn ignition on, wait for error, quickly cycle ignition off then on. Shift year run engine, change gear lots. Repeat. Error likely will go away.

You'll also need to bleed system as error is probably caused by that even tho it wasn't present before. I had same problem as you on soak. Got it rideable by cycling but had to bleed to make shifts smooth.
Did you experience smoother shifting than before the clutch soak after all was said and done? My 2008 AE shifted relatively smoothly, but I figured the clutch soak might improve it a little more.

Did your bike also not move forward in first gear as mine is doing now?

 
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Now it's turning into a scene from a scary movie. Got bike started by turning key off and on while holding in starter button and brake lever. Got her into neutral. Bled clutch fluid. Got bike started again and shifted into 1st gear. Up to 3000 RPMs and no movement of the rear wheel. SH__26, SH__17. As it warmed up I started to hear a slight clicking (ticking) noise coming from the clutch area. And to think everything was working fine until I did the soak. Hmmmmm. I'll wait for more advice.

I found an entry in the service manual that for AE models you have to break in the friction plates after replacement by reving it 10 times at 1/4 throttle each time for less than .5 seconds. Been there, done that also. Sitting and stewing over it a while.......

 
The clutch soak for me did nothing but cause problems. No improvement afterwards. The bleed did the biggest improvement.

The clicking sound is probably just the valves, I begin to "hear" things when it goes tits up :)

Did you remove swingarm for bleed? Did you retighten nipple etc? Could also recheck you assembled clutch correctly.

The electronics to be honest seem an unlikely point of failure. I got lots of errors in addition to sh26, all caused by air in the system which the bleed sorted.

Change the gear lots. Up and down a LOT.

 
If you ignition cycle and start, you should be able to get it into first and rev it without errors.

If no errors and still no rear movement, sounds like clutch kept disengaged. Did you overfill fluid resouvoir? The system uses hydraulic pressure to *disengage* the clutch.

We also pushed the clutch disengage rod all the way back in before reassembling.

Let me know if you dont have the bleed manual pages and I'll send them over.

 
I did double check clutch assembly this morning as indicated in an earlier post. It is right for sure. I can now quick cycle the key switch to start the bike with the SH__26 code on. Bike starts and has no error codes. Shift to 1st and wheel turns at a walking speed (all done on center stand). With more throttle, rear wheel goes no faster. Cannot shift to second or error SH__17 pops up and then no more shifting is allowed. I did the bleed without removing the swing arm. All old fluid is out and new is in. Level in plastic filler looks good. What did you mean by moving the rod all the way back?

Thanks again,

Jeff

 
Hi Jeff

Let me chronicle what happened to me. I did soak, on reassembly it showed 26. Took apart, checked and pushed the push rod (I think its called that, in centre of clutch, all way back.

Start bike still 26. Cycled ignition changed gear etc. Then repeated about FIFTY times. Got it moving in first but couldn't upshift and bike kept shuddering. Just kept on changing gears. Riding it slowely getting bike to slip clutch. Slowely sorted itself, after an hour faffing about with this. Just persevere and get bike to engage and disengage clutch as many times a possible by shifting gear and revving and going back to neutral. If after 100 engage/disengages or more you've experienced no improvement then I'm not sure I knoe what else to suggest.

 
Will give that a shot Dr Devil. How's Mrs Devil anyway? :) Do you think just shifting it from neutral to first and back fifty times would be enough clutch engagement? Seems like I can't shift anywhere else.

 
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