Gen II ECU reflash by Ivan

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Auburn

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I recently had my ECU reflashed by Ivan's Performance Products.

Redneck J had been talking with Ivan for some time now and had his reflashed a few weeks ago.  He actually bought the ECU that Ivan used as his test mule to develop the tune.  He changed his out a few weeks ago at my house and then gave me his ECU to send n for the reflash.  Ivan's service is very fast.  I sent it in on a Monday afternoon (2nd day air) and he called me Wednesday afternoon to confirm details and to process payment.  He shipped it back to me 2nd day air and I had it in my hands that Friday afternoon.

Jay came over and helped me change out the ECU.  (Acutally he changed the ECU, while I removed the PC V and Autotune and reinstalled the stock O2 sensor).  It took as long to remove and replace the O2 sensor as it did to do the everything else, probably 1 hour total as we were taking pictures for this.  (My first ride  impressions are at the bottom of the post)

You'll need to remove the tank and the side cover on the left side to access the ECU.  Here is the plug removed  (and you can see I have tons of extra wires on my bike for all the farkles.)

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The plug from the end view

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You need to push the white tabs to unlock the pins in the plug

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We used a 16 gage brad nail to push the pin and plug out

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Here you can see the top of the white plug that J pushed out to swap with the wire in the next slide

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Wire being pushed out

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Move the wire to the third and put the plug where the wire came from in the first hole.

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After the wire and plugs are fully seated, then push the white locking tabs back into place to lock the pins in the plug.

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Now remove and replace the ECU (we had an aextra, but you remove and send yours in then put it back)

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Once you have the ECU in place, Next you need to reset the CO readings to zero. 

First you need to get into diagnostic mode by pressing both buttons and then turn on the key while holding the buttons down. (don't start the bike)

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Cycle through all of your CO settings resetting them to 0

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All done, time to fire and go test. 

First Impressions:  (Conditions - 2 up, full tank - premium, remus exhaust with the cores in, PAIR removed, V Stream windscreen fully up, 80+ degrees, headed to the mountains)

I went for a 100 mile two up ride without the trailer.  I filled the bike up so I could check mileage when I got back.  Mrs AuburnFJR's first comment was how smooth it runs and smooth it shifts.  I shift without using the clutch on upshifts by slightly letting off the throttle to unload the transmission and clicking up to the next gear.  The power delivery is as smooth as my race bikes were back in the day.  The power was smooth at all RPMs, and gears.  Not a violent power hit, just a power delivery with a purpose (if that makes sense). 

If Yamaha had put a tune like this in the bikes from the factory, you would not need all the work arounds that the Gen II suffered from. 

I intentionally did many roll ons from very low RPM in 5th gear.  in the 1500 to 2000 RPM range.  No surging in the bike, no closed throttle bucking, no throttle lag when rolling on, no surge.  Everything you want it to be, but Yamaha didn't deliver.  The bike took any throttle input and built power, speed and RPM almost in a linear fashion.  Extremely impressive, no valve knock, now hesitation, nothing wasted, just forward momentum. 

The power delivery was amazing, this is what the bike should be like. 

In talking with Ivan, he said the Gen II has very limited parameters that he can change.  He described as the file size for the ECU is 100K, where the Gen III is 1.1M  He said with the Gen III he can tune many more parameters as a result.

There is no lag in power delivery as you roll on the throttle, you start moving forward now.  I will have to adjust how I ride the bike 🙂  It put the sport back into my Gen II.  With the performance comes a cost, the bike runs at 5 bars temp now, where it was running at 4 bars before.  I can live with that for the performance gains.  Mileage an impressive 46.9 MPG two up and screwing around on the throttle.  (It was in the mid-30's 2up without the trailer, and 28-30 with the trailer).  With my frankentank I now have a legit 450 mile fuel range.

This is definitely one of the better performance upgrades you can do for the Gen II FJR.

 
I have Ivan’s Gen 2 reflash installed in my 2010 FJR.  The bike now has 68,513 miles.  I have logged about 475 miles with Ivan’s ECU flash.  Every mile has been awesome. I had a PCFC (power commander) installed since about 5000 miles or so.   Ivan’s flash fixes issues that the PC can not fix.  100% fix of the 0% throttle table and control of the bikes engine timing.   Shifting is much much smoother than before.   Part throttle and full throttle acceleration is noticeably better.  There is NO  surging on the highway at any constant speed.   
 

Fuel economy.  My bike had been getting 34-42mpg depending on how it was ridden.  After the ECU flash I rode about 100 miles or so checking fuel economy.  75-80 mph constant the bike pulled 47 mpg.    I was stoked!   Yesterday I did a conservative ride with a couple of Harley’s (Jeff wasn’t with us, ha ha).  I checked the mpg and got 51.1 mpg.   Wow!!  That was 60-65 mph.   
Like Auburn said, This is the tune the bike should have came with.  

Better performance, better drivability and better fuel economy?  ABSOLUTELY!!! 
 

Ivan hit a home run with the Gen 2 reflash. The install is super simple and his service is great.   Get your ECU flashed!!

 
Most interesting and I concur with your experience 100%.  Ivan told me pretty much the same thing about the gen3 and its ECU memory.  That's a plus for a gen3 not to take anything away from the gen2 after Ivan's flash.  I got 51 mpg after the flash as well with the O2 sensor connected and 47 mpg with it disconnected.  Ivan thinks that the ECU must be still getting some kind of input from the O2 sensor even though he has zeroed out the O2 data.  If I disconnect the O2 sensor my mpg drops to 47 mpg although I can't tell any difference in performance.  I did notice that with the O2 sensor connected the mpg seems to fluctuate more depending on engine loading and when riding under changing engine loads the 51 mpg soon begins to decrease and settles out around 47 to 48 mpg.  I left the O2 sensor disconnected just because I don't like the beasties and 47 mpg is 4 mpg better than what I used to average so no complaints.  

Yup, I'm a believer in Ivan's work.

 
I wonder if there are any issues with applying the "Flash" to a non-US bike?

I don't know whether the miles/km lives within the instrument cluster or the ECU.  Also, I wonder how it would affect the immobilizer and chipped key recognition found in FJRs outside of the USA.  I am giving this some consideration...

 
AE models use the same ECU.

O2 sensor sets default on Gen2 bikes when unplugged... I recommend leaving it connected. It's input is no longer used, but will set default if unplugged. 

There's lots of adjustments that can be done with this ECU, same as any other....just the ignition timing routines are not very sophisticated so I couldn't get too crazy with it. 

 
AE models use the same ECU.

O2 sensor sets default on Gen2 bikes when unplugged... I recommend leaving it connected. It's input is no longer used, but will set default if unplugged. 

There's lots of adjustments that can be done with this ECU, same as any other....just the ignition timing routines are not very sophisticated so I couldn't get too crazy with it. 
Any comment on Canadian or Euro bikes with immobilizer and chipped keys?  I may be mistaken but I thought that stuff resided in the ECU.  (I assume that the flash essentially wipes out everything that was there?)  Part number for the ECU is slightly different.  See fiche from Canada site - the ECU includes immobilizer-related stuff as a unit.  The USA fiche has a part number for the ECU as 3P6-8591A-A0-00.  Cdn is B0.  This is for a 2011.

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I see on Ivan’s ECU preparation page that the idle rpm is to be set between 1150 and 1200 RPM. The YCC-S flavour Bike doesn’t like this for idle RPM as it’s a bit high - too close to the warm clutch engagement point. Is this higher RPM required for the re-flash to function properly off idle, or will it perform properly at around 1050 RPM, which is the middle of the range spelled out in the service manual? I prefer it to be at 1000 RPM.

I suppose the YCC-S clutch engagement point could be bumped up to accommodate this higher warm idle speed, though I didn’t see any mention of it. 
 

This really has my attention. I’d love to do away with that jerky throttle response when accelerating from a closed throttle while rolling up to an intersection. Currently I have to ease into it to do it smoothly. 
 

Brodie

🙂

 
AE models use the same ECU.

O2 sensor sets default on Gen2 bikes when unplugged... I recommend leaving it connected. It's input is no longer used, but will set default if unplugged. 

There's lots of adjustments that can be done with this ECU, same as any other....just the ignition timing routines are not very sophisticated so I couldn't get too crazy with it. 
Awesome,

BeemerReemer (Killoughs) was going to call and ask.  But now that you have answered that question they have 2008 AE and he is emailing me the paperwork so I can package up my old ECU and send it off for it to be reflashed for his bike. 

 
 Be aware there might be differences between the A ECU and the AE ECU. There are more connections shown for the AE ECU, I'd guess communications between the ECU and the YCC-S MCU. I would be very wary of assuming their programming was the same. 

 
According to Partzilla…

2006 -2007 ECU:          3P6-8591A-23-00

2008 ECU:                     3P6-8591A-60-00

2009 thru 2012 ECU:   3P6-8591A-A0-00

The ECU is shared between all models for the year(s) listed. The question I have is… Has the re-flashed ECU been tested on an actual YCC-S machine? Did Ivan have access to one to make sure his parameters play well with the added functions logic and parameters demanded of by these  paddle shifters?

I just mentioned the RPM issue a few posts back.

Brodie

🤔

 
nice write up. Thanks

One question.  Why do you move the yellow w\red line wire over? ( I did not read why)

 
One question.  Why do you move the yellow w\red line wire over? ( I did not read why)
This allows you to get to a menu where you can change the CO settings.  They have to go back to 0,0,0,0.  AKA Barbarian jumper mod. for Gen II.

 
Immobilizer is in a different chip... no issues at all.

CO settings are also in a different chip... that's why the customer has to zero it out. The only part of the ecu that is rewritten is the engine control chip.

I've had several AE customers that haven't called me with any issues. You can lower the idle if you want. But I recommend staying in the range that I set everything up with. 

If you want stock with no changes then stay stock... I've not had any AE models in my shop... I'll be happy to check it out if one comes in,  but so far no complaints. 

Same ecu part number is EXACT same ecu.... it doesn't get any simpler.... I've done about a hundred or so Gen2 bikes so far with no complaints. 

If anyone wants to have a discussion,  please call on the phone during business hours. 

I just don't have the time for the web boards and forums without pissing off my wife.

Thanks,

Ivan 

 
... If anyone wants to have a discussion,  please call on the phone during business hours. 

I just don't have the time for the web boards and forums without pissing off my wife.

Thanks,

Ivan 
Thanks Ivan, you've answered my questions. 

The last thing we would ever want you to do is piss off the boss, but we appreciate the quick response.

Take care, and thanks!

Brodie

😉

 
This allows you to get to a menu where you can change the CO settings.  They have to go back to 0,0,0,0.  AKA Barbarian jumper mod. for Gen II.
You say Gen II.

Is this for Gen II and up only or will this work for Gen I?

And "CO" what does that stand for?  Customer options, Computer Output, Coats Only.

I feel so DUMB.

 
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