Changing Rear Brake Pads/ Brake Reservoir Location

I have not seen any write ups on changing Rear Brake Pads(on my '03) so since I just finished doing it, I thought I'd share the experience. Took about 30-45 minutes from start to finish(with no complications)

Put the bike on center stand then remove the 2- 12mm bolts on brake carrier as per the arrows.



Drop the carrier away from the pads. Then remove the Inside/Outside pads by sliding them out of the carriers.

Remove the Spring clips from old pads and clip back on New pads.

Slide new pads back into the carrier.

I had to take a 8mm wrench and back off the bleeding screw & then took a 2 1/2 inch C-Clamp and compressed the caliper housing with 1/2 inch wide, about 3 inches long, and about 1/8 inch thick flat on the piston side until the piston was almost flush with the rubber boot.

Then easily slid the Caliper assembly back over the pads and re-attached the 2-12mm bolts making sure their rubber boots were open to the bolts and not pinched.

Tightened down the 8mm bleeder screw and put back on the rubber bleeder cover.

Test ride to see if OK...it was.

These were the pads at 35k miles...better safe than sorry.



This is the diagram chart from Yamaha that was not much help.



Rear Brake Reservoir Location:

Hope this may help someone who may be interested and appreciate all the assistance I have gleaned from all the other members who share their experiences with FJR matters. This sure makes the FJR a fun bike to own.

Great info, thanks for posting.

I always thought it was Hi-Ho Silver...away!!

Good stuff man! :clapping:

GREAT WRITE UP!!!!!! Thanks for taking the time to show some of us common folks how to do something on their own.

That's one of the things this forum is about for us. :clapping:

Just a followup, I have been experiencing some hotter than normal(what I feel) brake rotors. I installed the EBC brake pads and was told by the dealership technicians that they use more steel shavings in the pads and thus make the rotors Hotter.

They also said the EBC pads will chew up the rotor quicker than the EOM pads.

Now they tell me...I switched them out today with the EOM pads and will see if there is a difference.

Anyone else experience this?

good post, I added a link to it in the Gen II Bin.

Rickster said:

good post, I added a link to it in the Gen II Bin.

Click to expand...

Thanks Rickster!

03HiYoSilver said:

Just a followup, I have been experiencing some hotter than normal(what I feel) brake rotors. I installed the EBC brake pads and was told by the dealership technicians that they use more steel shavings in the pads and thus make the rotors Hotter.They also said the EBC pads will chew up the rotor quicker than the EOM pads.

Now they tell me...I switched them out today with the EOM pads and will see if there is a difference.

Anyone else experience this?

Click to expand...

I haven't heard, but with 35K on the OEM pads, I'll probably just stick with what the factory used.

Again, thanks for the write-up.

Herkypilot

From my automotive experience, any pad with a higher metallic content will probably tolerate heat better, stop better (although sometimes needing higher pressure at the pedal/lever), and wear the rotor more. More is a subjective term, but a harder pad that grabs better will need to take some rotor with it. They're usually much "dirtier" too, throwing grunge all over your wheels, which if left too long is VERY difficult to clean.

Haven't had my feej long enough to know, but the original owner was apparently a front-only kinda guy. He told me the rears have the original pads, and they're still quite un-worn and thick, almost 41,000 miles when I got it.

From the brake pad replacement instructions in the service manual:

"Note: Always install new brake pads, brake pad shims, and a brake pad spring as a set."

It appears you reused the old shims and springs.

From experience , one of the things to check when fitting new pads is to clean the rubbish build up under the clips (9) on the diagram. Took me 2 hours to get rid of it , but if you dont then you may well find that the pads are sticking on . Then they dont last very long at all

Constant Mesh said:

From the brake pad replacement instructions in the service manual:"Note: Always install new brake pads, brake pad shims, and a brake pad spring as a set."

It appears you reused the old shims and springs.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion.

I had the mechanics at the dealership look it over...they said it was fine. Of course, we have heard that before!

tontofjr said:

From experience , one of the things to check when fitting new pads is to clean the rubbish build up under the clips (9) on the diagram. Took me 2 hours to get rid of it , but if you dont then you may well find that the pads are sticking on . Then they dont last very long at all

Click to expand...

Thanks Tonto. I did the same as well, perhaps I missed something and will look it all over again.

Great write up. I did this in 10 minutes. It took 3 minutes just to find the torque for the caliper bolts. 19 ft lbs.

Thanks again.

Nice write up and pics. The service manual leaves a lot to be desired. Nothing like photo's to depict what's there.

Johnny & Tom,

Glad this was helpful to you.

I did my rear pads too on the weekend on my '03. 95000kms or almost 60000miles on the factory pads. I cleaned all moving parts and re-used the retainers. Works just fine.

Rob

o3HiYo,

Great write up and pics. Only thing different I did on my pad swap a few weeks ago was to pull that right caliper bolt.

Then the entire caliper could swing down and pull off the caliper carrier without removing the left/rearmost bolt. It basically was just a long pin with a bolt head on it screwed into the caliper, but not screwed into the carrier. It rotated down and slipped right off, giving full access to the pads.

Wonder if there was a change between the 03 and 04 rear caliper design. :unknw:

RH,

Thanks for your comments. You got me there if there is any differences. At present, I have only done this on the '03.

If there are some differences in the microfiche or on later versions, let me know and we can edit the process for them.

I just pull out the two bolts in the picture. The entire caliper swung down. Squeezed the piston back in with my hands and then swap the pads in and bolted it back up. Easy peasy