Heated Grips Summary

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FjrVfr

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Much of this has been covered before but I thought I would summarize/consolidate what I've learned about heated grips over the last few months. I'm on my 3rd solution and I can hopefully shed some light for others looking to keep their mitts toasty through the winter.

I started with BigBikes grips (which look remarkably like Hot Grips) after reading NovaFlyer's excellent write-up on them. These are solid core grips with integral heating elements. This means two things. First, that you have no choice of grips - if you don't like the texture, diameter or hardness (they're like a rock) you're SOL. It also means that getting them off is a real pain. Forget about compressed air or getting a screwdriver under there. I had to dremmel the clutch side off and I just bought a new throttle tube for the right side. They're also about a half inch longer than stock so getting a Throttlemeister to work with them is a challenge.

These grips do come with a variable control that fits nicely into the cutout on the left side dash panel (panel "A"). It looks neat but the variable control doesn't buy you anything if the grips don't get very hot. I never rode with them set to anything other than "Off" and "100%". As NovaFlyer later pointed out, they're only useful down to temps around 10C/50F. It's also worth reading Ionbeam's reply about what the "cheapie" grips might be doing to your electrical system.

Cost for this excursion: ~$70 for the grips and later $15 to replace the panel "A" cutout.

Next I went back to Kimpex grip heaters which I'd used on my VFR for years. These are defroster-like heating elements that adhere directly to the handlebar/throttle tube after you've removed the stock grips (compressed air is the way to go here). This has the advantage of letting you use any grips you like and is very economical (<$30 at Cycle Gear). They come with a high-low-off switch but I didn't wire up the "low" setting as it just bleeds heat to a resistor that gets awfully hot in lieu of the grips. I was ok with just flipping the switch once my hands were medium-rare.

The improvement was tremendous, my hands stayed warm long after other parts (ahem) were freezing. My only minor gripe was the uneven heating effect due to the heat sink losses on the clutch side. I'd seen this on the VFR and it wasn't a huge deal.

Cost for option 2: $27 for the Kimpex kit, $10 for a new throttle tube.

I ran into another problem or I'd still have the Kimpex units. The throttle tube I'd replaced was actually a Kawasaki part the dealer had in stock that was about 1/4" shorter than the original (though we couldn't see this because the BigBikes grip was still glued to my original!). This also kept my Throttlemeister from working properly. I'd since read about Dual Star/Symtec heaters and the benefits of the Heat Troller. Since I knew I needed to replace the throttle tube - and therefore the Kimpex heaters - I thought I'd give them a try. The Dual Stars are also defroster-like adhesives but have different elements for the clutch and throttle sides to account for heat sink. They also have three leads going to each element which offers you some options as to how hot they get. Tom Barber did a great write-up on this that I followed using the parallel method. The Heat Troller gives you variable control (you'll need it), has a small profile and is hopefully gentle on your electrical system.

Cost for the right solution: ~$27 for the Dual Stars, $47 for the Heat Troller and $5 shipping.

Note: Poo poo to California Sport Touring. They confirmed my order for a kit with the toggle switch then it magically changed to the rocker right before it shipped (as they were out of the toggle kits). Though I wasn't going to use it on this job I can always use an extra toggle, the rocker is crap and went straight in the can. Either way, it's inexcusable to change a customer's order without contacting them.

Bottom line: The Dual Star/Heat Troller is the way to go. They allow you flexibility with your grips, the controller fits anywhere, they heat well and evenly left to right and if you find yourself hungry in the middle of nowhere they can roast an armadillo. Don't settle for anything else.

Happy Holidays,

FjrVfr

 
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I've got the Widder heated gloves, but for some G*D* reason the tips of my fingers are still going numb on the commute in each morning now that we're hitting temps in the 30s out here in sunny California. In the past I've actually had to pull over (pre-Widder Gloves) on the side of a freeway on-ramp and warm my hands by the engine.

So I've been thinking about heated grips. But as I look at the posting above and at the links, all of which are really excellent information, I feel overwhelmed with the amount of complexity and inscrutable wiring diagrams involved. I don't even know how to get my grips off ("The grips come off?" :blink: ).

On top of that, since I usually keep the brake and clutch covered about 90% of the time, with the freezing-numb tips of my fingers hanging out in the cold air anyway, I wonder if I'll still have the same problem (BTW, I've never had any kind of heated grip).

So I guess my question is this: Is installing heated grips (say, the solution recommended at bottom of posting above) simpler than I imagine? Can someone talk me out of my Fear Tree and assure me that even a trained chimpanzee could install heated grips?

JB

With Fear and Trepidation (and Hairy, Chimp-Like Cold Hands)

 
Another option is to install the heated grips made for the Honda St1300. Nice controller and you don't need the harness they try to sell you with it. War Machine posted an excellent write-up on this complete with pics.

 
[...]
Happy Holidays,

FjrVfr


Great summary! Thanks! I asked for the DualStar/HeatTroller combo for Christmas, along with a set of gel grips over the top (going from stock + grip puppies).

Jeff

I've got the Widder heated gloves, but for some G*D* reason the tips of my fingers are still going numb on the commute in each morning now that we're hitting temps in the 30s out here in sunny California. In the past I've actually had to pull over (pre-Widder Gloves) on the side of a freeway on-ramp and warm my hands by the engine.
So I've been thinking about heated grips. But as I look at the posting above and at the links, all of which are really excellent information, I feel overwhelmed with the amount of complexity and inscrutable wiring diagrams involved. I don't even know how to get my grips off ("The grips come off?" :blink: ).

On top of that, since I usually keep the brake and clutch covered about 90% of the time, with the freezing-numb tips of my fingers hanging out in the cold air anyway, I wonder if I'll still have the same problem (BTW, I've never had any kind of heated grip).

So I guess my question is this: Is installing heated grips (say, the solution recommended at bottom of posting above) simpler than I imagine? Can someone talk me out of my Fear Tree and assure me that even a trained chimpanzee could install heated grips?

JB

With Fear and Trepidation (and Hairy, Chimp-Like Cold Hands)
James,

Don't be afraid - you have an excellent support group here. Wiring diagrams make hooking stuff up look more complex than it is, though I would urge you to consider adding a switched power strip rather than wiring the grips straight to the battery, in case you forget to turn them off.

The grips are glued on. Sometimes you can work them off, sometimes it's easier to cut them. They're not a costly part, so cutting is an attractive option if you're having a tough time with them.

Look up some of the write ups referenced in the first post, then jump in. Get stuck, post a message. Someone will be along shortly, I guarantee it. I got great help troubleshooting my cruise control install when it didn't work right the first time through. Excellent group of people here. Very tech savvy.

Jeff

 
The grips are glued on. ...sometimes it's easier to cut them.
Jeff
Cut my grips off?! With a knife?
Scream-986948965t.jpg


Okay okay okay... just kidding. A great response. And right on. Thanks.

The issue I always have with mechanical projects is that I'm always afraid I'm gonna get in over my head. Since I pretty much don't drive a car, and the FJR is my principal mode of getting to work and to Home Depot to search for scams, I'm afraid I'll wind up with the bike in pieces, no solution in site, and having to get in the cage (over the heads of the rest of my family), blah blah blah.... ["What a pussy."]

Thanks again,

JB

 
Much of this has been covered before but I thought I would summarize/consolidate what I've learned about heated grips over the last few months. I'm on my 3rd solution and I can hopefully shed some light for others looking to keep their mitts toasty through the winter.
I started with BigBikes grips (which look remarkably like Hot Grips) after reading NovaFlyer's excellent write-up on them. These are solid core grips with integral heating elements. This means two things. First, that you have no choice of grips - if you don't like the texture, diameter or hardness (they're like a rock) you're SOL. It also means that getting them off is a real pain. Forget about compressed air or getting a screwdriver under there. I had to dremmel the clutch side off and I just bought a new throttle tube for the right side. They're also about a half inch longer than stock so getting a Throttlemeister to work with them is a challenge.

These grips do come with a variable control that fits nicely into the cutout on the left side dash panel (panel "A"). It looks neat but the variable control doesn't buy you anything if the grips don't get very hot. I never rode with them set to anything other than "Off" and "100%". As NovaFlyer later pointed out, they're only useful down to temps around 10C/50F. It's also worth reading Ionbeam's reply about what the "cheapie" grips might be doing to your electrical system.

Cost for this excursion: ~$70 for the grips and later $15 to replace the panel "A" cutout.

Next I went back to Kimpex grip heaters which I'd used on my VFR for years. These are defroster-like heating elements that adhere directly to the handlebar/throttle tube after you've removed the stock grips (compressed air is the way to go here). This has the advantage of letting you use any grips you like and is very economical (<$30 at Cycle Gear). They come with a high-low-off switch but I didn't wire up the "low" setting as it just bleeds heat to a resistor that gets awfully hot in lieu of the grips. I was ok with just flipping the switch once my hands were medium-rare.

The improvement was tremendous, my hands stayed warm long after other parts (ahem) were freezing. My only minor gripe was the uneven heating effect due to the heat sink losses on the clutch side. I'd seen this on the VFR and it wasn't a huge deal.

Cost for option 2: $27 for the Kimpex kit, $10 for a new throttle tube.

I ran into another problem or I'd still have the Kimpex units. The throttle tube I'd replaced was actually a Kawasaki part the dealer had in stock that was about 1/4" shorter than the original (though we couldn't see this because the BigBikes grip was still glued to my original!). This also kept my Throttlemeister from working properly. I'd since read about Dual Star/Symtec heaters and the benefits of the Heat Troller. Since I knew I needed to replace the throttle tube - and therefore the Kimpex heaters - I thought I'd give them a try. The Dual Stars are also defroster-like adhesives but have different elements for the clutch and throttle sides to account for heat sink. They also have three leads going to each element which offers you some options as to how hot they get. Tom Barber did a great write-up on this that I followed using the parallel method. The Heat Troller gives you variable control (you'll need it), has a small profile and is hopefully gentle on your electrical system.

Cost for the right solution: ~$27 for the Dual Stars, $47 for the Heat Troller and $5 shipping.

Note: Poo poo to California Sport Touring. They confirmed my order for a kit with the toggle switch then it magically changed to the rocker right before it shipped (as they were out of the toggle kits). Though I wasn't going to use it on this job I can always use an extra toggle, the rocker is crap and went straight in the can. Either way, it's inexcusable to change a customer's order without contacting them.

Bottom line: The Dual Star/Heat Troller is the way to go. They allow you flexibility with your grips, the controller fits anywhere, they heat well and evenly left to right and if you find yourself hungry in the middle of nowhere they can roast an armadillo. Don't settle for anything else.

Happy Holidays,

FjrVfr
OK you have convinced me. I called CAl S T and ordered the grips and the heat troller. So you gonna come over and help install ???

Thanks, Lucky

 
The grips are glued on. ...sometimes it's easier to cut them.
Jeff
Cut my grips off?! With a knife?
Scream-986948965t.jpg


Okay okay okay... just kidding. A great response. And right on. Thanks.

The issue I always have with mechanical projects is that I'm always afraid I'm gonna get in over my head. Since I pretty much don't drive a car, and the FJR is my principal mode of getting to work and to Home Depot to search for scams, I'm afraid I'll wind up with the bike in pieces, no solution in site, and having to get in the cage (over the heads of the rest of my family), blah blah blah.... ["What a pussy."]

Thanks again,

JB

I used to ride a 1982 Yamaha XJ100 Maxim. It had a glitch with the transmission where if you really hammered it in 2nd gear, the gear would pop out or skip. I don't consider myself overly mechanically inclined, but decided I'd try the fix for the transmission. So here I am, bike in the spare bedroom over the winter, polishing everything up, making it look perfect, take a stab at the transmission. I have never felt so sick as the moment the transmission shaft and all the gears dropped out the bottom of the engine case. I remember thinking "That's it. It'll never run again." I took my time and help from the XS11.com group, and got it all back together, and it fixed the problem. So, if you think you're in over your head, just take a break, then go back and try again. If you have a powerblock, chances are the worst you'll do is blow a fuse. If you're careful and plan things out, it'll probably go smoothly. You can always offer to buy someone nearby a beer to help out as well. Save the beer for after you're done though.

As for the Home Depot scams, I'm praying the ex-Miss Nevada gets a job at my local one. :dribble:

 
FJRVFR,

How did you slip your new grips on? I changed grips on my dirtbikes 100+ times and usually squirt a little WD40 in the new grips, slip them on and twist wire. I wouldn't think that's be a good idea with the heaters. What did you use for lube and make sure the grips don't slip?

Thanks,

 
FJRVFR,
How did you slip your new grips on? I changed grips on my dirtbikes 100+ times and usually squirt a little WD40 in the new grips, slip them on and twist wire. I wouldn't think that's be a good idea with the heaters. What did you use for lube and make sure the grips don't slip?

Thanks,
That is *exactly* what has scared me away from using the element-type heaters and made me buy the (crappy) Big Bike Parts heated grips.

I should note I also have the textile Gerbings gloves, so it's not a critical thing that I get the grips perfect.

 
Sorry to be offline so long. I was busy visiting family, stuffing my face, drinking like a fool and generally being a boob.

JB - What Jeff said. You might find yourself working on it after the parts store closes and discover you need a fuse/washer/left-handed potato peeler but it should only set you back a short time. Great habit about covering the controls. If it's cold and you have the heaters on I'm sure they will still help.

Most grips come off easily if you have a compressor and can jet some air in between the grip and the handlebar. They "blow up" a little like a balloon and will move/rotate wherever you want while the air is on. Either way, a set of grips is less than $10 if you decide to go the box cutter route.

WD-40 worries me because it doesn't dry or harden like a glue or hair spray. To be honest, I didn't use any glue at all when I put the grips back on - thought I'd see how things worked and if they moved I'd take them off and use an adhesive. So far they haven't budged.

As for the elements moving once they're adhered to the handlebar/throttle tube - I've never heard of that happening. I assume that cleaning is the key - I used a little alcohol (not the good stuff) on the handlebar before adhering the heaters and am not expecting a problem. I did the same with the Kimpex heaters and can tell you that getting them off was no small task. That adhesive is tough stuff.

Lucky - if it wasn't snowing I'd consider it. I'll be headed your way in the spring but that kind of defeats the purpose. You'll do great.

Mark

With Fear and Trepidation (and Hairy, Chimp-Like Cold Hands)
Classic.

 
I've got the Widder heated gloves, but for some G*D* reason the tips of my fingers are still going numb on the commute in each morning now that we're hitting temps in the 30s out here in sunny California. In the past I've actually had to pull over (pre-Widder Gloves) on the side of a freeway on-ramp and warm my hands by the engine.
So I've been thinking about heated grips. But as I look at the posting above and at the links, all of which are really excellent information, I feel overwhelmed with the amount of complexity and inscrutable wiring diagrams involved. I don't even know how to get my grips off ("The grips come off?" :blink: ).

On top of that, since I usually keep the brake and clutch covered about 90% of the time, with the freezing-numb tips of my fingers hanging out in the cold air anyway, I wonder if I'll still have the same problem (BTW, I've never had any kind of heated grip).

So I guess my question is this: Is installing heated grips (say, the solution recommended at bottom of posting above) simpler than I imagine? Can someone talk me out of my Fear Tree and assure me that even a trained chimpanzee could install heated grips?

JB

With Fear and Trepidation (and Hairy, Chimp-Like Cold Hands)
James, you sound like a good candidate f/ trying the V-Strom handguards as opposed to grip heaters. Easy on, not horribly expensive & since you already run heated gloves you probably wouldn't need grips to suck more electricity, energy installing them & money doing it.

They would stop the wind from hitting the heated gloves (while you cover the clutch/brake).

 
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James, you sound like a good candidate f/ trying the V-Strom handguards as opposed to grip heaters. Easy on, not horribly expensive & since you already run heated gloves you probably wouldn't need grips to suck more electricity, energy installing them & money doing it. They would stop the wind from hitting the heated gloves (while you cover the clutch/brake).
I'm glad you brought up that option, because my feeling (no pun intended) is that if I could just deflect some of the wind off my hands, that would make all the difference.

Thanks for the suggestion, LTR. I'm going to look into that.

Jb

 
James, you sound like a good candidate f/ trying the V-Strom handguards as opposed to grip heaters. Easy on, not horribly expensive & since you already run heated gloves you probably wouldn't need grips to suck more electricity, energy installing them & money doing it. They would stop the wind from hitting the heated gloves (while you cover the clutch/brake).
I'm glad you brought up that option, because my feeling (no pun intended) is that if I could just deflect some of the wind off my hands, that would make all the difference.
Thanks for the suggestion, LTR. I'm going to look into that.
Already did the hand guards, not enough to keep from having to use winter weight gloves, but make all the difference with them. I will soon add the grip heaters with Heat-Troller and attempt to get by with the Held Steve gloves for cold riding. I like having thin gloves on the controls.
 
I've had heated grips for some time. Mostly on HDs and my WING. They work great in temps of about 40* (F) and above. But, not very well below this temperature or for very long.

I can ride a couple hours at 45* with medium weight leather gloves with grip heaters on my WING. Below this, I need to hook up my Gerbing heated gloves.

Heated grips work pretty well in mild temps for me. But, my fingers get cold with light gloves or less if the temps are below 45*. Heated grips will not heat your fingers very well. Plus, they only heat the palm side of your hands.

I also have the "hand guard" mod on my FJR ... it does help some. And, it is pretty inexpensive, too. I find that at 40-45*s, I can ride with medium weight gloves for about 2 hours with them with minimal finger discomfort. And, I keep the clutch and brake covered around 90% of the time as well.

Gerbings heated gloves (the new ones with wind proofing and leather) are excellent IMO. I have not used them on the FJR yet with heat, but I routinely use them on the WING at temps in the low 20s with no problems for 2+ hours. They will heat the entire finger area, not just the palm sides. Plus, you can use them without 'heat' when it is not as cold. I'd get the rheostat to control them and mount it on the bike with a lighted control knob.

I've used Gerbings heated stuff for a decade and think it's great. Pricey, but if you want to ride in cool/cold temps, they can't be beat IMO.

 
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