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You can probably pry up the edge of the cap enough to spray a shot of penetrant in there then try to pull it straight up with a twisting clockwise/counter clockwise motion.

Been mostly said already drain the tank add some fresh fuel clean the air filter install fresh plugs fresh battery change oil and final drive fluid bleed clutch and brake lines with fresh fluids a squirt of ACF-50 or similar in all electrical connections That should get it started and...

Or the used set of brake lines someone offered up?

Start with the easy stuff. At the lever there is a brass bushing. Remove it, check to see if it has worn, if so replace it. Then clean it, grease it and reinstall. When was the last time the clutch fluid was changed out? It's worth doing a bleed with fresh fluid. Also cleaning and...

Sounds like the shop messed up the install. Now the quandary... take it back to the shop that can't install it properly or take it elsewhere and have to pay again to get it done right.

If I remember right I think I read torque it up to 30, unwind it and then torque it to 15-19. Or you can tighten it while you move the bars lock to lock (front wheel off the ground) until you feel resistance in the bars.

I wouldn't expect a reply any time soon. The OP has been back many times and not addressed either ABS brake thread he started. :rolleyes:

Heating up the bolt allows for expansion and contraction breaking the bond between the bolt and whatever it's screwed into. Google how to loosen a stuck bolt and you'll see it's widely advised.

Uh... nevermind.

You can try heating them up by holding a soldering iron on them for a couple of minutes. Or spray with a quality penetrant ( not WD40) but guard for overspray. Quality tool too.

No and no. If you have crash bars you can jack up the front and place jack stands under them for support. Took me about 6 hours over the course of a few days. Lots of info here... https://www.fjrowners.com/threads/a-strange-case-of-handlebar-wobble-2015es-fixed.156518/#replies

How about the vacuum hoses? A clogged/dirty MAF sensor hose might cause a stumble.

Thanks for the update. Good to know when an issue is resolved. (y)

Wow!!!! I've never seen coolant like that before. Good job getting it all figured out. (y)

So it wasn't oil leaking on the ground?

BTW that hose was not "sheared off". Overflow and vent hoses are usually cut at angles to produce a venturi effect to aid scavenging.

So when was your last tune up? Meaning oil, plugs, filters, a can of FI cleaner, etc. Is the battery strong?

This suggestion I can agree with. ;)

Yes what Harper said. If it cranks but does not fire I'd say battery going bye bye. If pressing the button does nothing for a time or two, loosen the screws holding the switch housing together, pry it apart a hair and spray the insides with something like ACF-50 or De-Oxit. Don't use WD40...

Nobody mentioned repair. You mentioned "periodic maintenance", which is what changing pads is. Which is what cleaning bobbins is. One of the main functions of the bobbins is to keep heat from the rotor's braking surface away from the carrier, avoiding warping. So "micro scratches" are a...