I'll not bore you with the details but I've done a lot of work on my 80,000 miles 2015. It's back together now but when I switch the ignition on, the pump primes etc, all looks good apart from the message '011' on the dash. If I hit the starter, there's a click and the dash shuts down and restarts. Its charged up, the battery is good, I also tried with my fully charged jump pack without luck. Shorting the starter relay produces the same shutdown/start up result. I have the manual but I can find no reference to a diag/fault/error code 011 in it. Can anyone enlighten me as to what 011 is?
011
- Thread starter Biquer
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RossKean
Well-known member
It sure SOUNDS like a bad battery or perhaps a bad starter. Have you checked the voltage while trying to crank? Have you had the battery load tested?
(I know you mentioned that you tried a fully charged jump pack - might want to get that load tested as well.) Might want to check the current draw with a clamp-on DC ammeter when attempting a start. Dead short somewhere? A "click" and dash shutting down is a clear indication that voltage has dropped.
What work did you do on the bike? Valve adjustment? I would hate to think that the inability to turn over was because of pistons hitting valves in a badly mis-timed engine! That would be a BAD THING.
I can't speak with any authority for Gen III bikes, but a cam position error is more often a function of a failed start/low battery than with a mechanical issue, at least for Gen II...
Good luck with it and report back with any new information.
(I know you mentioned that you tried a fully charged jump pack - might want to get that load tested as well.) Might want to check the current draw with a clamp-on DC ammeter when attempting a start. Dead short somewhere? A "click" and dash shutting down is a clear indication that voltage has dropped.
What work did you do on the bike? Valve adjustment? I would hate to think that the inability to turn over was because of pistons hitting valves in a badly mis-timed engine! That would be a BAD THING.
I can't speak with any authority for Gen III bikes, but a cam position error is more often a function of a failed start/low battery than with a mechanical issue, at least for Gen II...
Good luck with it and report back with any new information.
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+1 sounds like a battery issue/voltage dropping too much... That's the only reason the dash would reset. Even with a jumper if the battery is bad it could still drop voltage below what the dash needs to stay on. How old is the battery?
RossKean
Well-known member
Yeah, until the battery is load tested and proven to be good, there is little point in further speculation. Next I would look to other gross electrical issues including measuring the current (and voltage) during a start attempt. For voltage to drop that far, there has to be a bad battery, poor connection, dead short somewhere, really bad starter or badly messed up engine. (I think the 011 error is a red herring and simply an artifact of the failed start/low voltage.)
I would still be interested in the extent of the "lot of work" done to the bike. A problem can often be traced to the last thing that was done... Wondering if there is any possibility of the engine being "locked" due to mis-timing. (Although one REALLY should turn the engine over slowly (manually) after a valve check or timing chain/CCT work to make SURE all is OK before reassembly and attempting to start.)
Yup. Better to load test first than spend a lot of time and money elsewhere.
I plugged my multimeter into the cam sensor coupling and got the expected 4.9v signal voltage. I rotated the engine through a couple of cycles and the voltage dropped to 0 also as expected as the ring on the cam lined up with the sensor. That cleared the fault. It makes no sense to me but that's what happened.
The work done was due to a leaking radiator causing an overheating issue leading to a blown head gasket, the radiator was repaired, the head was skimmed, new valve stem oil seals fitted, valves reground, new coolant temperature sensor, radiator cap and thermostat etc. But worry not, all is now well.
The work done was due to a leaking radiator causing an overheating issue leading to a blown head gasket, the radiator was repaired, the head was skimmed, new valve stem oil seals fitted, valves reground, new coolant temperature sensor, radiator cap and thermostat etc. But worry not, all is now well.
RossKean
Well-known member
So, is it running now??? The "click" and disappearing display is very much a characteristic of a low voltage start attempt. This can also generate some odd fault codes.
That's an awful lot of work to do on an engine. Surprised it would be worth the expense. I don't know about your part of the world, but a low to medium mileage FJR motor can often be had for around $1,000 USD on eBay (plus shipping). (Depending on condition, location, mileage, current demand etc.)
That's an awful lot of work to do on an engine. Surprised it would be worth the expense. I don't know about your part of the world, but a low to medium mileage FJR motor can often be had for around $1,000 USD on eBay (plus shipping). (Depending on condition, location, mileage, current demand etc.)
Yes its running fine. You are of course correct re the cost of a repair and I have bought an 11,000 mile 2015 engine for $600 as well, it is future insurance for both my 2015 and 2008 FJRs. However I wanted to see if I could repair the original engine, it failed on me on the last day of the Iron Butt Rally, I was stranded in Manhattan night-time traffic trying to get to the finish with a roasting bike that had also boiled the clutch fluid so I had no clutch either. I think my mindset was 'I'm going to fix you for the grief you've given me, whether you like it or not, ya ba**ard'. Given what I spent getting the bike over and back from America for the rally, the cost of the repair wasn't bad.
The total cost of parts including a head gasket, new head bolts etc was also about $600. Yamaha parts prices are a joke, but not a funny one.
I think the original culprit was a pinhole in the top left side of the radiator, which I've repaired. It seems that nearly all similar radiator leaks I could find online on FJRs were in the same place?
Thankfully, the wrenching is now behind me and the riding is in front of me. Hopefully it holds out.
RossKean
Well-known member
Yes, that is where the radiator leaked in my '07. (Back side so not debris damage.) I also was able to get mine repaired by a radiator shop - they injected some sort of polymer to block a couple of cross-tubes. Fortunately, I caught it before there was much more than an ounce or two of fluid lost. I remember that @dcarver also had a leak there; possibly other people here as well. Photos below shows the leak location for mine - lightly pressurized empty radiator with air and used soap solution to pinpoint leak.
Keep an eye on the overflow tank on your '08. Around the time of the radiator leak, I discovered that the plastic of the reservoir had become very brittle and cracked - had to replace it. Heard of this on a number of early Gen II bikes.
Given your description of the work done, I would have expected a much higher repair cost. (I assume you did the work yourself?) Sounds like a lot of hours of wrenching. It appears that you also got a great deal on a lightly used engine spare. FJR engines are pretty inexpensive in general. I think there are more wrecked bikes than failed motors so demand isn't as high as for some less reliable brands.
Glad you got it sorted out!
Exact same place as mine, I've seen about 5 others and know of another 3, seems to be a manufacturing flaw, but it must be a rare enough occurrence. You've shamed me with that photo, mine looks like scrap compared to that.
Yes I do all my own work. It was a lot of hours but I did a lot of other stuff not related to the failure whilst it was apart.
Yes I do all my own work. It was a lot of hours but I did a lot of other stuff not related to the failure whilst it was apart.
RossKean
Well-known member
Front side didn't look quite as good and that photo was after cleaning the radiator. Still, not bad for around 200,000 km at the time.
Did you actually see coolant dripping from the leak or notice the level in the overflow tank was going down? I’ve noticed the smell of coolant a couple of times on my ‘16 and am planning to have a look this winter.
The radiator and expansion bottle were full before the rally and I was checking the bike every day, there were no drips. During the rally I was moving fast and in 30-40°C temps, I didn't see any drips, I think the heat and air movement was evaporating whatever was leaking. The first I knew of trouble was the 'HOT' message on the dash. After that I was filling the radiator every couple of hours. I do believe in normal circumstances the leak could be small enough to go unnoticed. If you're smelling coolant I would definitely investigate. Don't forget the pipework and oil cooler etc as well, all potential leaks.
RossKean
Well-known member
Mine was a slow leak but I noticed a few drops of coolant on the garage floor. At first, I attributed it to the cracked coolant overflow reservoir which I replaced. After that was dealt with, I was still getting some drips. I initially thought leaky hose connection (a common source of drips), but upon close inspection, I could see a damp spot and evidence of crusted salts on the radiator so I had a two-fold leak. I could smell hot coolant with the bike fully warmed up but it wasn't strong. Mine wasn't bad enough to seriously deplete volume or cause engine overheat. I guess I caught it early.
Anyway, look for drips and sniff for smells.
Monitor overflow tank levels, but this varies a lot depending upon how warm the engine is as well as ambient temperature.
Check overflow tank for cracks or drips. Mine was cracked, brittle and hard. Make sure that the rubber siphon hose goes to the bottom of the reservoir and that it isn't kinked (or leaking).
Check radiator cap for leaks.
Check all hoses! To and from radiator, water pump, around radiator cap and thermostat. Often a half-turn of a hose clamp is all that is needed to stop a small leak. I have never had to replace a hose due to crack or split.
Make sure water pump itself isn't leaking.
Also the coolant pipe on top of the engine - the o-rings can fail and the wells will fill up with leaking coolant. Make sure you use new o-rings if you remove the coolant pipe and check that it is leak-free (with hot running engine) before you replace the heat shield, t-bar and tank after valve check etc.
Check radiator carefully. If you are lucky, the leak will be in a place where you can see it. You may see liquid coolant or crusted salts on a radiator from an older leak.
Note: Removing and replacing radiator isn't a lot of fun!!!
Good luck!
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Coachpilot
Active member
For $300 you can get a new OEM on line. If one area is bad, what does the rest of the inside look like? Considering the mileage these babies get put on them AND some remote places between civilization they cross, it sure sounds like cheap insurance to me... sometimes it can be very expensive (with massive headaches) to do the cheap fix. Seems to me like sitting on a time bomb, and that's no way to enjoy the ride.
RossKean
Well-known member
Interestingly enough, the Gen II radiator lists for $200 more than the Gen III+ - part number is similar but not identical... I ran my repaired 2007 radiator for most of another 100,000 km without issue but I agree that changing it out for $300 might offer some peace of mind. As it has been mentioned by others on this forum, don't try one of the aftermarket radiators selling for cheap on eBay.
Thanks to all you contributors on this thread. It is helpful knowing what to look for and preventing an expensive repair.
Yes, I echo Art Miller’s sentiments and appreciate all the helpful info from the contributors here. I’ll have a thorough look through my ‘16 soon.
RossKean
Well-known member
Just a note on this...
The expansion bottle coolant level may not go down if there is a severe leak in the radiator, rad cap or top hose (or if overflow hose is damaged, kinked or doesn't go to the bottom of the tank).
In normal operation, coolant expands as the engine gets hot and the fluid goes to the expansion tank. As the engine cools, the fluid contracts and the resulting vacuum draws fluid back into the radiator from the expansion tank. If there is a hole in the radiator, (or hose/cap etc.), the vacuum may simply draw air into the radiator leaving you with a false sense of security when you see plenty of fluid remaining in the tank. Keep an eye on engine temperature and check the radiator itself if temperatures are higher than expected.
Also, in a normal fill, it is quite possible to end out with an air bubble in the radiator that is hard to get out. Even the time-honored technique of filling slowly and rocking the bike back and forth may not do it. Sometimes, you have to just fill to the brim (and expansion tank at least halfway) , cap it and run the engine until the fans come on. (At the VERY least, the engine has to get hot enough for the thermostat to open - otherwise there won't be flow through the radiator at all. Hotter is better to expel air.) At least some of the air should "burp" out through the expansion tank (caution, may cause overflow). As the engine cools, fluid will be drawn back into the engine. After cooling, top up radiator and expansion tank and repeat as necessary until expansion tank level remains constant, Most I have ever had to do is x2 but can usually fill, cycle once and top off. As above, make sure overflow hose is in good condition and is properly situated.
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