05 missing/surging

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have had similar problems on my '05 with 40k miles. I have fairly severe idle fluctuations, on the order of 100 rpm. Then, when leaving idle, I occasionally get an incredibly rough ramp-up. In those situations, if not carefully babied along, the engine will stall. After about a mile, it clears right up and all is well. This has happened maybe 6 times in the last year. It is nevertheless unnerving. The fact that this happens intermittently leads me to believe that it is an electrical problem. I've been trying all sorts of stuff to fix it, thus far that has included:

- Barbarian Jumper Mod (+7 to all CO values)

- New plugs

- New coils/wires

- TBS

- Checked TPS

- Removed throttle free play

- Cleaned connectors under T bar (no corrosion)

So, likewise I am running short of ideas. I have a PCIII right here that I will be installing tomorrow. I will let you know how it turns out.

 
Um, guys? Have you bothered to run your VINs through a dealer or Yamaha to see if they fall under the TPS recall? My '05 would do a more subtle version of what yours are doing until I had the TPS recall done.

Also, search for heat induced stumbling. I know others have experienced this in extreme heat situations - including me. Vapors and such. Radman has previously mentioned that a clogged fuel vent line could create these symptoms, too.

 
Um, guys? Have you bothered to run your VINs through a dealer or Yamaha to see if they fall under the TPS recall?...Radman has previously mentioned that a clogged fuel vent line could create these symptoms, too.
...More irritating is the rough running and surging with the throttle just off idle. Doesn't seem to matter what the engine speed is, just the throttle position. Once I get past the first 1/4-1/2 inch or so, it runs great...--Dealer just did TPS recall and I readjusted it (was 18-102 from the dealer, now 16-100.) Multimeter does only show 600 ohms if I am connecting it correctly...None of this seemed to have any effect on my problem
Some troubleshooting ideas are in this link:

General troubleshooting...

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...st&p=127397

 
Last edited by a moderator:
It may be a little worse than 25-50 rpm, but it's a fast fluctuation/oscillation up and down, not just a steady idle that varies.
I did the TBS using a Morgan Carbtune. Synced out perfectly.

Idle is at 1100 now. Seemed to not oscillate as much at 1000, but ran just as rough off idle. The roughness bothers me much more than the idle oscillation and could be causing it.

Appreciate any 05 stock CO settings.
Roadhammer here, I have a 2004 with 26000 miles or so. I have done the bjm, modified the air box to get more flow simuliar to WW; here are my co changes:

cylinders 1 2 3 4

original 12 14 08 07

+7 19 21 15 14 ran well still had stock air box 40 -48 mpg

+10 22 24 18 17 Ran well, modified air box( inspired by WW; good work

WW and thanks) 40 to 48 gpm

24 24 24 17 ran very good, more torque/ power according to my

butt dyno; Fuel mileage with two up on trip to

Blue Ridge and loaded for camping 40 to 49 mpg.

present 26 26 26 24 Runs very good; smooth with power/torque improved.

Will do a tbs to morrow and see if it is even smoother

note: I left the bjm in so I can experiment at will. I use gas mileage

as a benchmark for over richness.

Hope this helps out, good luck Roadhammer

 
Well, where to begin. Frank has been, for the last couple months, driving me nuts-nuts to the point where I was thinking it was time to change platforms. Vibration, light always, sometimes severe, had been dogging me since this years startup. I had TBS'd it to death, perfect. Plugs, perfect. Tighten, tune, BJM adjust, look, try again, over and over (I can now do a high speed TBS in under 10 minutes, tank on to ready to ride). Worst part was it's intermittent nature-smooth as silk riding to work, rough as shit coming home. Leave in the morning for a cruise smooth, stop for gas, rough. Seemed temp sensitive, but not always. Seemed worse humid, but not always. It was maddening. Then Silver posted this up, and light bulbs started popping hard. Last night, though storms had deposited a large Cottonwood through the back of the house, electricity was off, cats were howlin', ol' lady screamin' (a guy has to have priorities) off came the tank as soon as I got home from work for the hundredth time. I HAD to know. Pull the T-Bar, get the loom up, seperate the connectors..........

could it be?.................

they were filthy. Green mold had loaded one half of both main harness connectors, they looked terrible. This on a bike that has rarely been ridden in rain, but does get washed at least every two weeks during the season. Water obviously runs down the front of the tank, and off of the frame at the neck, and directly onto these all important connectors. I quickly, with toothbrush and brake cleaner, cleaned up both sides on both connectors till they gleamed, and reconnected using plenty of dielectric to seal. Button things up, ATTGATT, and light him off. Idles, smooth. Check. Was rough, a good sign. Take off up the hill, smooth, no burps, was hesitant when cool, especially on a 1-2 shift. Feels like glass at low r's . Hit the highway, and crank him up. THIS IS THE BIKE I FELL IN LOVE WITH YEARS AGO!!!!! Transformed doesn't begin to describe Frank, or me. In fact, no doubt this corrosion has been in place for a while now-combined with all the other tuning I had done trying to isolate the problem, except for a tiny, and I mean tiny, buzz at 4100 r's, he's smooth as glass from idle to redline. Finding this thread quite possibly kept me from leaving the FJR for good, it had gotten that frustrating. I owe 03HiYoSilver a debt of gratitude I can't begin to address, so

[SIZE=24pt]THANKS!!!!!!!!!!![/SIZE] will have to do!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Rad,

YOUR ARE WELCOME!!!! These connectors can cause some stange events not easily diagnosed, Since They Won't Drop Codes, by 5-Star mechanics. I am more than glad to be able to contribute something to this Fantastic Board that has made the FJR from a good bike to a Great Bike.

Very Glad Frank is your Best Friend again!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Since my thread has been revived, here's an update. Installed a PCIII with Wally's map which took all of the idle fluctuations out, but it would still miss just a touch off idle. Adding a K&N filter seemed to smooth it even more. Only problem now is that my mileage went from 40-44 to 36-38 mpg and she doesn't feel as snappy up high. Probably too rich? How does the Dale Walker map compare to Wally's? Is it possible to lean Wally's map just in the cruise range? Never had issues anywhere but low throttle settings, so I don't think I need all the extra fuel in the midrange.

 
Ya know, my dirty ol whore of an FJR still runs pretty good, but I too think there might be some intermittent vibration that has come on in the last 6 months or so. Will have to check these connectors. Living in the extremely dry southwest, but occasionally riding in the rain while travelling, I wonder what I will find after 147k?

 
Shit like this is like worn shocks-you don't realize how bad they are until you replace them. Although Frank had gotten pretty vibey-any deviation from a perfect TBS resulted in vibration to varying degrees, sometimes he'd be dead smooth. Some days he would be perfect, I'd celebrate with a ride. Only to find the next morning he's buzzing my hands so bad 20 miles is an effort. I could ride smooth to work, ride home fast as I could before my hands went numb. That was the maddening part of the whole ordeal. Have put 75 miles on him since cleaning things up, he's the same each start-up, 3 times in all. THAT is a first, and confirmation the problem all along was that fucking connector.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well, I said I'd post how the Power Commander affected my bike's behavior. Well I got it installed today, and took it for a spin. Accelerating out of the garage, the bike began missing and shuddering just like old times. No affect. However, once it got over it's little fit, things were good. While the PC did not fix the problem, it improved the throttle response nicely.

<sigh> Well, I guess I'll have to check the connectors under the T bar again.

 
I would like to double up on Rad's THAAANNKKS!!!!! to IONBEAM. I went searching for a surging thread today because of just a minor annoying little power change in the engine at 2900 to 3000 rpm in 5th gear. (I got an 05) I have a MCcruise on the bike and when I set it at 50mph the bike seemed like it would loose a cylinder for a second and you would feel in your ass that it slowed and then just as quick it would come back and pull good for a few seconds and then off and on etc. So I find this thread and go clean the connector of the green moss and wow the surge is gone and the massive buzz in the seat at 5000 rpm is way less too. (I am a aircraft mechanic and may just change this connector to a aircraft style AMP connector with gold pins. If I do I will share.)

 
An update on my problem from the original post: The PCIII cured it. I guess aftermarket pipes with a stock FI map were not working well together. Bike now runs smooth as silk. On the downside, I lost 5-6 mpg with Wally's map, now getting about 38. Has anyone gone in and leaned the whole map by a couple percent to improve fuel economy?

 

Latest posts

Top