16K mile service "compromise"

[Ray]

This weekend I was going the dreaded 16k mile service on my 2006 AE. Couple of compromises I found. First - the lower pipes will hold the bike up for jacking just fine without need to support from rafters. However it is a little unsteady. I used a floor jack with a board so all pipes were engaged at the low point. I would have added some jack stands to stabilize it but then realize taking the center stand off was not necessary.

My compromise - which would never fly for a compulsive person: I undid the bolt holding the top mount of suspension linkage (the L thing forgot its name - what the dog bones attach to) and pulled it out as far as it would go (till it hit the center stand). The shaft sleeve that rides on the bearing came out with it. With the shaft out and only the bolt in there Ii was able to use a straw with lithium grease and spray on both sides into the bearing. While this is not the same as "packing" the bearings it should provide adequate lubrication for another 16K miles or so, or at least till I change the rear tire again as it is easy to do.

Again not perfect but thought a good compromise vs building a lift, grinding the center stand bracket, etc.

 

[RossKean]

16,000 miles on an '06?

That bike needs to get out more!!

 

[SLK50]

Since you dont ride much your compromise may be

adequate.

But corrosion is more age than mileage dependent.

Just ask the guy who couldnt remove his rear axel.

 

[Ray]

Actually I have 28k miles on it and just getting to it - my bad. However things looked good. But yes I do need to ride more. Last year I put more miles on my. Race SV 650 than my FJR. Plus have car toys to play with so too many distractions

 

[RossKean]

Have you done the valve check? - it is past due for the first one...

 

[Ray]

I am going to run compression check when I change the plugs. If compression is good then usually valves are good. As soon as compression drops off then I will do valves.

 

[RossKean]

I am going to run compression check when I change the plugs. If compression is good then usually valves are good. As soon as compression drops off then I will do valves.

Bad idea.

Compression (or lack thereof) is a poor indicator of a need to do a valve clearance check. By the time compression is affected, clearance is already reduced to BELOW ZERO and far below the specified clearance for intake and exhaust valves.

Burned valves will happen by then!!

 

[Ray]

Agree. I am counting on catching it early enough before they burn. Have not heard of a single person who have valuables out of spec at 26k mileage check. Lots of work for ultimately nothing.

 

[Ignacio]

Have not heard of a single person who have valuables out of spec at 26k mileage check.

I have. On the forum more than once.

Uncommon, but certainly not zero.

16K Mile Service Compromise.......Actually I have 28k miles on it and just getting to it

That seems an odd amalgam. I'd go with the service schedule due a 28K machine and catch up (since you've missed at least 3 service intervals) instead of pretending one that's about 1/2 the mileage of actual. But that's me....YRMV.

 

[Bounce]

Compromise can make expensive toys worthless.

 

[dcarver]

Hey, leave Ray alone! It's his ride... and very very few FJR's have hurt valves after doubling service time. Would I not check? No. But that's worry-wart me.

 

[RossKean]

Hey, leave Ray alone! It's his ride... and very very few FJR's have hurt valves after doubling service time. Would I not check? No. But that's worry-wart me.

Not saying that is there is a good chance that he has a problem at 28,000 miles - that would be unlikely. My point was that if you wait until compression is measurably low due to valves no longer sealing properly (i.e. LESS THAN zero clearance), then you may have already done expen$ive damage to your engine. Just NOT a viable means of determining if the valves need adjusting.

 

[El Toro Joe]

Damn, Ray...have you even ridden that thing since moving out of Ohio?

 

[Heen]

Spraying grease in the suspension bearings is only ok if your grease has the proper additives. Not sure spray lube does. In this application you should be using an EP grease. EP grease usually has moly added to reduce the damage that happens when you go metal to metal.

Highly recommend not short cutting valve maintenance. As Bounce said, your expensive toy could become worthless.

 

[redzgrider]

I recommend you do ignore the valve check. Mine, like many others, were on the edge of loose from the factory, and could have gone unchecked without issue.

 

[Ray]

Actually the manual for the grease on those linkages is lithium soap based only not EP on the suspension. I used the EP with Molly on all the others just not the one that is a pain. I actually have done all other services.

 

[Gitbox]

Lots of work for ultimately nothing.

Not exactly nothing. You would at least KNOW that the valve clearances are in spec.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand, THIS is why I don't buy used motorcycles anymore.

 

[Bounce]

Yep. In the past I have asked people who suggest this PM process (or proclaim "shortcuts" like this) to be sure and point out these threads or at least remind us when it comes time for them to sell them used.

It's also why I so strongly recommend keeping a service folder. It makes your resale easier and you may get a better price if selling to someone who's a little more "well heeled". Computer logs are okay but can be pencil whipped right before sale time. Original receipts and dates;/mileage on them are easier to toss into your folder and show the buyer something more difficult to fake.