FJRay
Well-known member
I was going to ask about that but wasn't sure how it would be taken. When you loaned it out you seemed OK with it. Sure hope it works out. Don't know if I can help but yell if you need anything.
2nd Gear Dog is worn?
- Thread starter ponyfool
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Crash Cash
Well-known member
I have a 3D motorcycle transmission simulation here on my webpage. I don't know if that's what you're talking about, but the rest of the page explains gear dogs and such, even if you can't get the java applet working.
charismaticmegafauna
Well-known member
I've been following this thread and have wanted to add something that may help -- or, at least help explain. But, imo, you may have finally brought up something quite relevant.
I recently had this discussion with a friend who has bike problems (not an FJR). He's scratching his head asking, "How could this happen?" (different problem than yours) He bought the bike used and has left it a couple times to be repaired. I informed him that if you don't buy the bike new and if you've let-it-out-of-your-sight (for any length of time) -- well then, 'all bets are off'.
I'm very sympathetic to your plight -- it's a very difficult/time consuming repair.
You will enjoy your new gears and shift forks.....
dbvolfan
Well-known member
I have had issues with mine 'ratcheting' when I go from 1st to 2nd and worried about the same thing. It feels like some teeth hitting when I shift...doesnt do it all the time, only say around 4k or so RPM's and even then it doesnt happen every time. Been doing it for quite a while and the firggin dealer had it for four+ weeks before I finally pulled it out of there because I think they had their head up their ass....I might take it to another dealer here eventually but I noticed that it does it much less following an oil change and as I approach 4k miles it does it more often.
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radman
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
Man, that blows. Were you local, I'd have some options for you. Unfortunately, there's no getting around the fact that that puppies coming apart. For you other guys, there's a lot to be said for disassembling the shifter occasionally for a clean and lube, and for using good technique when shifting-fast and solid is the phrase of the day. You do the works no kindness by soft pedaling these units.
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AdamJ
Active member
Quite a few of us have had this problem on fairly new bikes which by all accounts have not been abused. My suspicion is it's a thrust tolerance problem in some bikes or possibly related to sticking clutch plates. In my case, since the repair was completed, the bike shifts MUCH smoother than it ever did before, particularly on the upshift to 2nd.
I made a post in the thread linked below about a possible angle on legal options which might be of use. In several of these threads people are saying "should have got YES..." but I can tell you from personal experience, YES isn't a 100% guarantee that a problem like this would be completely covered under warranty. In my case it wasn't, and I was only reimbursed for the repair after much teeth gnashing and prepping for a legal dispute.
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?a...&pid=404936
Good luck.
I made a post in the thread linked below about a possible angle on legal options which might be of use. In several of these threads people are saying "should have got YES..." but I can tell you from personal experience, YES isn't a 100% guarantee that a problem like this would be completely covered under warranty. In my case it wasn't, and I was only reimbursed for the repair after much teeth gnashing and prepping for a legal dispute.
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?a...&pid=404936
Good luck.
ponyfool
Well-known member
I'm beginning to see a trend here as well. Beaverton Honda Yamaha had no real interest in helping me at all. The service guy said I had to make a $2700 commitment for repairs before he would pursue anything with Yamaha, and then, he said they'd only take care of the parts leaving me a $2000 repair bill. In addition, he even said, "Since we're in there, we'll go ahead and replace the piston rings too." That made me run away, fast!
Desperation breeds innovation, so as outlined in this thread, I am now waiting for the parts to get here from Japan so I can have her back up and running again soon, hopefully in time for NAFO.
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radman
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
Thats like a Doc doing an appendectomy yankin' a kidney "long as I'm in there". Did you order this bike, or was it on a showroom floor? If it was, may have another idea as to why that fork is twisted.
There's a reason the locals, including me, call that place "Bend Over Bob's". Good selection and gear offerings, but not so good on pricing or service. Sales is sales.
Action Motorsports in Fairview gets my valve check/adj. work or any warrantee service.
ponyfool
Well-known member
I bought my bike with 389 miles from a forum member. I have every reason to believe that either something I did, or something that happened when I loaned it out is the cause of the issue. However, having seen how this isn't as uncommon as I originally thought, maybe there's something else to it.
As far as Action Motorsports, I've heard very good things about them and their service department, especially a tech named Scott whom I've never met. But when I asked four or five people who are in the know about mechanical issues, Scott's name came up every time as the only guy they'd ever have do the work for them.
radman
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
The reason I brought up showroom vs ordered (ie: virgin) is the horrendous abuse popular bikes go through on a showroom floor. All the morons have to sit on them and dry shift them to see if the lever does anything, or something, hell, I don't know. But dry shifting (and force shifting) a bike will definitely ruin shift forks. Johnny Quest is gonna get a gear if he has to stand and jump up and down on that lever. Times 300.
Aasland
Depleted
Q1: Was there a resolution to this?
My 2006 is now slipping in 2nd gear. Bought the bike at 20k, if I didn't give it a good kick into 2nd when accelerating hard, it would pop out of gear. No big deal .. until now, 80k, anything more than moderate accel in 2nd will cause it to slip, like I pulled the clutch in for a second.
To make matters worse ... YES expired in July. Dammit!
Bike is too good to not fix this, so it looks like I have my winter project lined up. Thinking I'll pull the engine myself and have a local shop split it and take a look.
Q2: Anyone have a recommended shop in Minnesota?
Q3: Any harm in just riding it? I can easily skip 2nd gear.
My 2006 is now slipping in 2nd gear. Bought the bike at 20k, if I didn't give it a good kick into 2nd when accelerating hard, it would pop out of gear. No big deal .. until now, 80k, anything more than moderate accel in 2nd will cause it to slip, like I pulled the clutch in for a second.
To make matters worse ... YES expired in July. Dammit!
Bike is too good to not fix this, so it looks like I have my winter project lined up. Thinking I'll pull the engine myself and have a local shop split it and take a look.
Q2: Anyone have a recommended shop in Minnesota?
Q3: Any harm in just riding it? I can easily skip 2nd gear.
AFAIR PonyFool did the repair work himself. Split cases, replaced gears, yeah...
No harm in riding it as is, IMO. You're gonna need to replace them anyway. Just don't go crazy w/ throttle in 2nd. Throwing gear chunks may mess up other gears.
No harm in riding it as is, IMO. You're gonna need to replace them anyway. Just don't go crazy w/ throttle in 2nd. Throwing gear chunks may mess up other gears.
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03HiYoSilver
Well-known member
Here's the Cost done by him in 2008:
Total parts including gaskets, o-rings, service manual and tranny parts: $669
If I would have only replaced the damaged parts, it would have only been $364
Total amount in tools to successfully complete the job: $324
Total spent: $993
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=106625&view=findpost&p=446487
Total parts including gaskets, o-rings, service manual and tranny parts: $669
If I would have only replaced the damaged parts, it would have only been $364
Total amount in tools to successfully complete the job: $324
Total spent: $993
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=106625&view=findpost&p=446487
bramfrank
BramFrank
They have a redesigned gear/dog set with an extra cog to help minimise the issue. Not sure if he replaced the shift forks, but from your description (long term, need to push relatively hard to seat the dogs) they are likely spread a bit and need to be changed as well.
fjr vfr
Well-known member
When my 2004 started jumping out of gear more often it was followed by 4th gear, which was unusable. We were on a trip in Europe and rode the last thousand miles or so using 2nd sparingly and skipping over 4th and into 5th. I didn't even try to fix it. I just picked up another motor off Ebay with less than 20k miles for $750 and installed it myself. It's much cheaper than fixing the tranny and you get a younger motor. If I were to do it again, I think I'd pay a little more and find a second Gen motor. You would need to swap a few external parts like the thermostat assembly and maybe the throttle bodies, but you'd have the higher gearing and stronger alternator. I've seen a few Gen II motors with low miles for around a grand. Good luck whatever you do.
Aasland
Depleted
Agreed, replacing the motor would be an idea too ....
Hey ... starting 2008 supposedly the throttle isn't as lurchy as the 2006's ... to get that benefit, would I have to change the ECU as well?
Hey ... starting 2008 supposedly the throttle isn't as lurchy as the 2006's ... to get that benefit, would I have to change the ECU as well?
IIRC, it was the diff that got the ratio change and the gears stayed the same. I also recall that the speed sensor is different on the Gen II and you might have to drill and tap a hole in the case to fit the Gen I style speed sensor. Not saying it can't be done, but it's still easier to swap a Gen I motor than putting a Gen II into a Gen I. Not sure there are real benefits when you can still find low mileage Gen I motors. (And I did do a engine swap on my Gen I with a Gen I motor. ABS and Non-ABS harnesses are different... btw. :blink:
Aasland
Depleted
Sorry for the confusion .. I have a Gen II (2006) and the 2008's are also Gen II. No Gen I involved here. I was wondering what was done on the 2008+ model years to remove the lurchiness of the 2006-07 ...
Burnspot
Who Me?
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