AE jerking me around

[RadioHowie]

I do not understand why Yamaha recommends removing the swingarm or whatever to get to the other side of the motor for bleeding the clutch. Is there something I am missing? Others on the forum have suggested removing the actuator with the three bolts on the left side where the bleed nipple is and fluid hose connects, and then manually pumping the rod to pump out the old fluid and air. I found the solenoid will do it easy enough just cycling it with the ignition key.

-Sirby

Cycling the ignition is a GREAT idea and Forumites with balky AEs should be thanking you enmasse soon.

 

[Sirby]

I do not understand why Yamaha recommends removing the swingarm or whatever to get to the other side of the motor for bleeding the clutch. Is there something I am missing? Others on the forum have suggested removing the actuator with the three bolts on the left side where the bleed nipple is and fluid hose connects, and then manually pumping the rod to pump out the old fluid and air. I found the solenoid will do it easy enough just cycling it with the ignition key.

-Sirby

Cycling the ignition is a GREAT idea and Forumites with balky AEs should be thanking you enmasse soon.

oh my...

 

[Sirby]

After a FULL test ride today I am happy to report that the AE is back to normal with zero studdering on cold takeoff. Smoooth as it ever was. The Clutch Bleed and Flush did the trick.

 

[revshred]

After a FULL test ride today I am happy to report that the AE is back to normal with zero studdering on cold takeoff. Smoooth as it ever was. The Clutch Bleed and Flush did the trick.

Well, I got mine back a week ago Friday after having the clutch actuator replaced, that part contained the sensor that was giving off the error code. $1718.17 total for that job. So far the bike is working ok and no error codes.Was not thrilled about paying that much for a repair but really did not have much choice since all the other fixes did not work for mine. Will update again if I have any problems again.

 

[Sirby]

After a FULL test ride today I am happy to report that the AE is back to normal with zero studdering on cold takeoff. Smoooth as it ever was. The Clutch Bleed and Flush did the trick.

Well, I got mine back a week ago Friday after having the clutch actuator replaced, that part contained the sensor that was giving off the error code. $1718.17 total for that job. So far the bike is working ok and no error codes.Was not thrilled about paying that much for a repair but really did not have much choice since all the other fixes did not work for mine. Will update again if I have any problems again.

Gulp! I hope I never see that error code. You had no choice thats for sure.

 

[samamoto]

Well I think I have my AE fixed now. I did a fluid flush on the clutch and it takes off fine now.First I changed to 10w40 dino oil from yammy. That made no difference at all.

Then after reading on the forum a bit more I decided to flush the DOT 4 fluid out of the clutch system to see what that does. I simply hooked up my new Motion-Pro Mini-bleeder to the nipple on the clutch slave cylinder after loosening the left fairing to gain better access. I cracked the bleeder nipple open and turned the ignition on and off about 50 times whilst adding new fluid to the reservoir. I did this until the fluid came out clean and clear. The old fluid was full of bubbles and quite dirty. By now the motor is cooled off from my morning jerking test ride, so I fire it up and launched without even a hint of a studder or jerk. This with one bar or less showing on the temp guage. I could tell that when the clear fluid began to appear at the bleed nipple, the sound of the clutch engaging changed to a more "solid" sound.

I do not understand why Yamaha recommends removing the swingarm or whatever to get to the other side of the motor for bleeding the clutch. Is there something I am missing? Others on the forum have suggested removing the actuator with the three bolts on the left side where the bleed nipple is and fluid hose connects, and then manually pumping the rod to pump out the old fluid and air. I found the solenoid will do it easy enough just cycling it with the ignition key.

-Sirby

4 years old but still so much valid. I had a bit of jerking when cold on 2006 AE. Flushing could never be easier. The only change I made was once the fluid was all nice and clear I let another 2 "tanks" flow with gravity. When the solenoid pumps the fluid it gets jerked quite tough and some tiny air bubbles can remain inside. 5 minutes and 2 tanks of gravity flow should make it certain no air is left inside.

I had no hesitation from the clutch this morning at just over 40F and it was starting like a rocket.

 

[revshred]

my saga went on for 3 years, eventually I had to take my bike to a different Yamaha dealer, corporate Yamaha eventually took over control of the situation. My entire clutch was replaced, and the master cylinder assembly for the clutch as well. They think the master cylinder failed, thus not allowing proper beeding of the clutch. The problem eventually destroyed the clutch. I got it back in June, 2015 and have about 4000 miles on it since, everything is working perfectly and Yamaha paid for it all even though I was not under warranty, they agreed with me that after 2 years of in and out hell and spending $2000 of my own money that I deserved a fixed bike. I finally got one.

 

[Sirby]

Yeah, thanks. I eventually had the problem return. After paying the Yamaha dealer to replace the clutch. When the service tech told me I'd just have to live with the studdering on cold start-n-go situations, and that I should let it warm up fully before taking off. This worked until I got tired of it and traded it in on a newer "A" model with a standard clutch. I am happier now.

 

[Sirby]

Well I think I have my AE fixed now. I did a fluid flush on the clutch and it takes off fine now.First I changed to 10w40 dino oil from yammy. That made no difference at all.

Then after reading on the forum a bit more I decided to flush the DOT 4 fluid out of the clutch system to see what that does. I simply hooked up my new Motion-Pro Mini-bleeder to the nipple on the clutch slave cylinder after loosening the left fairing to gain better access. I cracked the bleeder nipple open and turned the ignition on and off about 50 times whilst adding new fluid to the reservoir. I did this until the fluid came out clean and clear. The old fluid was full of bubbles and quite dirty. By now the motor is cooled off from my morning jerking test ride, so I fire it up and launched without even a hint of a studder or jerk. This with one bar or less showing on the temp guage. I could tell that when the clear fluid began to appear at the bleed nipple, the sound of the clutch engaging changed to a more "solid" sound.

I do not understand why Yamaha recommends removing the swingarm or whatever to get to the other side of the motor for bleeding the clutch. Is there something I am missing? Others on the forum have suggested removing the actuator with the three bolts on the left side where the bleed nipple is and fluid hose connects, and then manually pumping the rod to pump out the old fluid and air. I found the solenoid will do it easy enough just cycling it with the ignition key.

-Sirby

4 years old but still so much valid. I had a bit of jerking when cold on 2006 AE. Flushing could never be easier. The only change I made was once the fluid was all nice and clear I let another 2 "tanks" flow with gravity. When the solenoid pumps the fluid it gets jerked quite tough and some tiny air bubbles can remain inside. 5 minutes and 2 tanks of gravity flow should make it certain no air is left inside.

I had no hesitation from the clutch this morning at just over 40F and it was starting like a rocket.

Now that's a great idea, just let 'er drip for a while. Thanks for adding that.

 

[revshred]

I originally bought mine used from a guy with 7000 miles on it. He told me the same thing, they shudder when cold. All I can tell you is that since they finally got mine working right it works better than when I bought it. No shuddering when cold even, the computer knows just how to slip the clutch when you are taking off with a cold engine.

Once the tech replaced the whole master cylinder assembly he said the bleed went nice and smooth. Absolutely love this bike when it's working right. Got about 42,000 miles on it now.

 

[El Toro]

I know this is an old thread, but there have been some recent posts.

My story on this clutch stuttering or shuddering has been told elsewhere. But to summarize it here for the few who are interested, my most recent 2009 AE came off the truck from Wisconsin last October stuttering. I didn't send the bike back because it had the Y.E.S warranty into April 2017 and I figured that would be time enough to sort it out. The seller (a non Yamaha dealer) assured me that they all stutter when they're cold. This one was worse than the '09 that I'd bought new which exhibited the same problem.

I let Yamaha sort it out at the local dealer here in Tennessee. It did not take very long. They tried an oil change, which was needed but did not solve the problem. Then they raised the speed at which the computer would engage/couple the clutch to the engine. This latter adjustment was simple and it is exactly the sort of thing a human would have done had the human been screwing up the clutch engagement. Raise the rpm at which the clutch is engaged ... makes sense.

So this was a cheap fix. I've had four of these AE models, and I've loved them all. I currently have two of them, and both are a joy, hot or cold.

 

[revshred]

yea, we tried everything under the sun, including a new clutch actuator. I think if you catch it early that might work. They used to say the ones that didn't sell right away and sat in their crates dried out the clutch plates, etc.

Mine didn't get bad until it had 25k miles on it. But like I said they could never get it to bleed right also. The other problem with adjusting the rpm up too high is that it could lead to the computer slipping the clutch too much and premature clutch wear may be the result.

Different things have worked for different guys, clutch soaks etc...

They were never meant to shudder cold. And now mine does not, when it's cold the computer knows to slip the clutch a little more.

 

[relhok]

I bought my 07 with 22,700 miles in December of '13. I have about 32,400 now. Over that time a small pulsation became more of a shudder.

I finally bought a MityVac and changed the fluid and it's smooth as silk now. It was so easy I wish I had done it sooner.

I put about 10-15lbs of vacuum on the bleeder and used the ignition key method.

 

[Steve in Phx]

In addition to your clutch bleed, did you modify the idle RPM or clutch engagement RPM? Or was the clutch bleed the only thing done to fix it?

 

[samamoto]

In my case bleeding only for the moment did the trick.

 

[Steve in Phx]

Just an update: I bled my AE clutch fluid last season but it didn't have much of an effect. Today I did it again but used the "cycle the ignition key" method and got a section of dirty fluid out between the clean fluid. What a great trick! I wish I had known about that trick last time! Thanks everyone for the good tips.

 

[FJRPittsburgh]

Just an update: I bled my AE clutch fluid last season but it didn't have much of an effect. Today I did it again but used the "cycle the ignition key" method and got a section of dirty fluid out between the clean fluid. What a great trick! I wish I had known about that trick last time! Thanks everyone for the good tips.

And is she working good as new? Love my AE! Great bike.

 

[Steve in Phx]

Yes it did smooth things out a bit. I also lowered the clutch RPM engagement 2 steps but that made it a bit twitchy when cold so I will raise it back one step higher. Maybe tomorrow....

I love my AE too!

 

[samamoto]

My clutch jerking came back on me. Nothing really bad but it will take some additional work to get around it. I'm actually starting to consider trying to convert to lever clutch control...