Arboreal Neutrino Black Box

[AdamK]

I picked up a Abroreal Neutrino Black Box power distribution and control system to install on my FJR. https://www.arborealsystems.com/Arboreal_Systems/Home.html

I'm wondering if there's enough room in the compartment next to the battery to install it on a 2016ES. Anyone try mounting a fuse block in there? I'll have more electronics up front than under the seat. Most of the pics I find using Google seem to show them under the seat.

TIA

 

[Ignacio]

I had a Fuzeblock installed under the seat in the tray of my '14 and it fit very nicely with room to spare. Looking at the picture of the Neutrino relative to the guy's palm....it seems a little bigger than a Fuzeblock, but probably still doable if you run wires in aft orientation with an arc then to the port side of the bike. It might also fit 90 to that.

I ran my bundle on this side and then up to the nose for power, trigger (off the glove compartment wire), and then all my powered accessories.

Looks like an interesting product!

 

[AdamK]

I'd like to keep it up with the battery and run as few wires along the engine as possible. The only wires running back from there to under the seat would be power for the HAM radio and the Autocom. Everything else would run forward. Granted this plan I'm formulating is from seeing pics of an FJR. Having never owned one or having one to look at yet makes this all purely speculative.

 

[Ignacio]

Sorry. I misread and thought you were talking under the seat.

This unit would be a serious challenge in the nose area including by the battery IMO. I may have thought about by the battery for about 20 seconds, but the mirror of it on the left side behind the glove box seemed more functional by possibly fabricating a mounting bracket...the notion lasted about a day and was my second choice. I thought about the glove compartment too for a shorter time, but then settled under the seat and live with the loom as my #1.

 

[AdamK]

Thanks for input! I was wanting to have relatively easy access to it just in case there were issues. Theoretically I shouldn't need to access it at all except to hook up new farkles. There are no physical fuses and all of the configuration is done via a Bluetooth phone.

 

[El Toro Joe]

Under the seat would be way easier to access, then up front by the battery.

 

[AdamK]

I get it. I'd just like to save the under seat space for other goodies. <If> the Neutino fits by the battery the wire clutter is greater reduced. All of the Neutrino heavy gauge cables don't need to travel from under the seat to the battery, etc. 2nd choice will be under the seat though. That's the way I have it on my ST, but the battery is right there too. The battery is much easier to access since 2014'ish, right? Two screw and to push pins??

 

[Ignacio]

The battery is much easier to access since 2014'ish, right? Two screw and to push pins??

For the very first time, there's also this faith-provoking tugging action you have to perform and popping sensation that weaves you somewhere between lows and highs of "Uh oh..." and "Aha!" The process is described elsewhere in the forum with a bit of Search-Fu.

 

[AdamK]

The battery is much easier to access since 2014'ish, right? Two screw and to push pins??

For the very first time, there's also this faith-provoking tugging action you have to perform and popping sensation that weaves you somewhere between lows and highs of "Uh oh..." and "Aha!" The process is described elsewhere in the forum with a bit of Search-Fu.

I watched a video on YouTube of someone removing the lid. Didn't look <that> hard.

 

[escapefjrtist]

I'm going to go against the collective here. There's a lot of room towards the rear of the battery / fairing area on the GEN IIIs. It will depend on how thick the "Black Box" is and the orientation needed for accessing wiring, but I think you have a chance.

On my '15, I installed all my electrical adds including two 30A relays, Skene controller and dual Powerlet fuses in that area. There is nothing (wiring related) under the seat or tail section.

--G

 

[AdamK]

I'm going to go against the collective here. There's a lot of room towards the rear of the battery / fairing area on the GEN IIIs. It will depend on how thick the "Black Box" is and the orientation needed for accessing wiring, but I think you have a chance.
On my '15, I installed all my electrical adds including two 30A relays, Skene controller and dual Powerlet fuses in that area. There is nothing (wiring related) under the seat or tail section.

It's 2-1/2" x 3" x 7/8".

It's basically a fuse box, relay and 6 programmatically controlled circuits in one box. It even has a temperature probe and knows when sunrise and sunset are. You can hook your heat vest to it and control it via your phone. Or you can program it to come on 10% when the temp reaches 50F. Then turn up to 25% when it drops to 40F. You can have aux lights turn on at sunset. You can have your gps circuit stay on for 2 hours after you turn the bike off and if the voltage of your battery drops below a set level it will turn circuits off. The 6 circuits it provides don't have physical fuses. You choose at what amperage you want it to turn off any of the 6 circuits. If it does trip you just power cycle the bike and the circuits all reset. Pretty cool!

https://koczarski.com/2016-yamaha-fjr1300es/arboreal-neutrino-distribution-module-v1

 

[escapefjrtist]

I still think it'll fit Adam. Hope you make it to Tech Day so we can check it out!

--G

 

[Gmann]

Replace the OEM battery with a Lithium Battery for more room in the battery box....

 

[Pterodactyl]

If you are willing to give up the glove box, the you could easily use that space.

 

[Mudslide Miller]

I bought the group-buy accessory shelf that was offered here for my '14 and though not the most attractive place, I mounted my PDM-60 fuse block on the right end of my shelf for the very reasons you have; that I wanted minimal wires running from the mid/back of the bike since all my accessories are up front. Routed the wires through the right windshield arm slot to get them behind the dash and down to all the accessory connections and the battery.

 

[Pterodactyl]

You could reconsider the idea of placing the device under the seat. It is not hard to run wires forward. Put them in a wire loom and forget about them. Do you want to have to pull part of the fairing to check a fuse when you're on the road? Under the seat allows for easy access and a neat installation.

 

[ionbeam]

It's basically a fuse box, relay and 6 problematically controlled circuits in one box. It even has a temperature probe and knows when sunrise and sunset are. You can hook your heat vest to it and control it via your phone. Or you can program it to come on 10% when the temp reaches 50F. Then turn up to 25% when it drops to 40F. You can have aux lights turn on at sunset. You can have your gps circuit stay on for 2 hours after you turn the bike off and if the voltage of your battery drops below a set level it will turn circuits off...

problematically

Truth! Since it's Friday I thought I would point this out. The auto shutoff on low battery voltage is a nice nanny to have. I hope you have your phone in a cradle and conveniently available to run the app when ever you need to adjust anything. I guess I'm an analog guy that likes convenient switches and dials (a.k.a. old) that my fingers can find without the distraction of looking away from the road and trying to hit small controls while moving. Do you need to have gloves with 'touch' finger tips so you can use your phone app with gloves on?

It looks like a nice unit with lots of features. It also looks like a $200 solution for a $20 problem (for me).

 

[Fred W]

It looks like a nice unit with lots of features. It also looks like a $200 solution for a $20 problem (for me).

It is a $300 solution to a $20 non-problem. IMO. (They are $299 on the referenced web site

)

Wow... I thought FuzeBlocks were too spendy at $80.

 

[AdamK]

It's basically a fuse box, relay and 6 problematically controlled circuits in one box. It even has a temperature probe and knows when sunrise and sunset are. You can hook your heat vest to it and control it via your phone. Or you can program it to come on 10% when the temp reaches 50F. Then turn up to 25% when it drops to 40F. You can have aux lights turn on at sunset. You can have your gps circuit stay on for 2 hours after you turn the bike off and if the voltage of your battery drops below a set level it will turn circuits off...

problematically

Truth! Since it's Friday I thought I would point this out. The auto shutoff on low battery voltage is a nice nanny to have. I hope you have your phone in a cradle and conveniently available to run the app when ever you need to adjust anything. I guess I'm an analog guy that likes convenient switches and dials (a.k.a. old) that my fingers can find without the distraction of looking away from the road and trying to hit small controls while moving. Do you need to have gloves with 'touch' finger tips so you can use your phone app with gloves on?

It looks like a nice unit with lots of features. It also looks like a $200 solution for a $20 problem (for me).

Damn spell check! It's a bit more than just a fuse block, plus I'm in IT and I like gadgets. A good friend who writes for MCN recommended it, so I'm giving it a try. You don't need your phone available unless you are actually using it to manually turn things on or off. It will replace my heated vest controls. Most of the other things I am connecting are just on/off with the bike, or on a shutoff timer. <If> the temperature controlled feature for the vest works I won't need the phone available for that either. Someone above asked about replacing fuses. There are no fuses. You reset a circuit either from the phone or by power cycling the ignition.

You're right though, it's just an expensive toy. I have a fuse block, relays and manual switches all over my ST1300. I wanted to try something different this time around on the new bike. A cleaner look that won't win me the "most farkled" award at WeSTOC.