BREAK IN

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Many owners have used MotoMan's breakin and there haven't  been any problems reported to date.  I did MotoMan, after reading his theories, and am quite satified that I did the bike no harm and feel the breakin was beneficial.  You have to decide for yourself.
I will put a slightly different spin on this. I did the Motoman breakin, don't think I did any harm to the engine, nor do I think there was any benefit. I also don't think the engine was fully broken in until about 9,000 miles when it seemed like it was running both stronger and smoother.

I also changed the oil and filter after 47 miles and even took the filter apart to look for metal fragments. I found a few but had to use a 10x scope to find them. I think it was a waste of perfectly good oil and filter and would not do it again.

 
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Oh, I know what he preaches, I just think it's fucked-up advice, that's all.
Actually, mister all of a sudden technical expert, the Motoman break in does not go against the limitations set forth in the owner's manual in regards to engine break-in.

So why is it fucked-up?
Because, you put de lime in de coconut and drink eet all down...

Along with,

zanyvoodoowitchdrs.jpg


and,

orange_ki.jpg


and

oil_treat.jpg


his method kinda fits in. :fuck: ;)

 
But the real stats here are how many owners followed Yammy's break in procedure (keep under 4,500 rpm for first 600 miles and under 5,000 rpm until 1,000) and also didn't have a problem- I bet the stats are the same...
Isn't Yammy's break-in procedure stated as no SUSTAINED operations above those RPMs? I believe that's the case, and if so, the Motoman procedure doesn't conflict with that, since you're not running for long periods of time at those RPMs.

 
I was just talking to a guy who breaks everybike in on a Dyno. Similar to motoman only on the Dyno. 50 miles with the 3 heat cycles from half to full throttle. Then while we were talking a bunch of others chimed in. Seems in the performance community this procedure is pretty standard. Seems to me most all race bikes are broke in this way, so why not street machines. Also talked with two shops that have Dyno services and they break in a lot of bikes for riders before they take the machine on the street with their Dyno. Same procedure. Motoman never says extended practices of exceeding redline. I would bet those who do extended highway riding at constant rpm's during breakin and baby the bike do more harm than good. But each individual has to make the choice for their own bike. Just like why do some drop the oil early and some let it go the distance to the 600 miles mark. there are a lot of way to do things without compromising the final outcome.

 
Once again, nobody can can come up with even one piece of evidence or one case where the Motoman break in has harmed any bike. TWN, can you provide one case out of the thousands of people that has used this method that proves you are right and everyone else is wrong?

On the other hand there are plenty of us that have perfectly good engines that are lasting a long time that have used the motoman procedure.

Please, I'm all ears. Somebody tell me exactly what is wrong with this method and provide some sort of data to back up your statements. Otherwise it's meaningless paranoia.

 
The operative words in my post are: 'I think...'. Those are my feelings about the procedure; they don't make sense to me. If you wanna do his break-in, knock your socks off. I think it's a waste of time.

 
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+1 to this ---> I also don't think the engine was fully broken in until about 9,000 miles when it seemed like it was running both stronger and smoother. That's the way it was on the FJR and my Beemer before that.

These engines are built to such close tolerances it takes a while for all the parts to "mesh" together - longer than 20 miles.

Main enemy on break-in is excessive HEAT, whether it's caused by higher rpm's for extended time or not enough engine speed variation.

I personally don't believe the Motoman break-in method works because it works on the theory stuff is meshed and seated by 20 miles of time.

And, if you put 8 oz of that STP in your crankcase when you change oil the bike WILL shift smoother.

 
Once again, nobody can can come up with even one piece of evidence or one case where the Motoman break in has harmed any bike.
Great piece of convoluted thinking.

But, can you, outside of meaningless anecdotal evidence, provide the forum with quantitative evidence that Motoman's break-in method HELPS a bike?

 
Thanks, Howie, you beat me to it. Hey, how's the recovery going? You back up to snuff yet?

And to add: If this was the end-all to motor break-in, then every manufacturer would be recommending it in the owner's manual. For the life of me, I can't ever recall seeing anything close to this printed by any maker...

C'mon skooter, I'm waiting... ;) :D

 
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Or better yet, can anyone cite an example where following the book has harmed their bike?
Doing the Motoman break-in IS following the book.

So what's your point?

Annnnnnnnnnnnd.................

it's off to the Never Ending Pointless Recurring Thread land.

 
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Let's add more fuel to the ScooterG/Capt. Obvious fire.

Direct quote from the MotoMan site:

The results are always the same... a dramatic increase in power at all RPMs. In addition, many professional mechanics have disassembled engines that have used this method, to find that the condition of the engine is much better than when the owner's manual break-in method has been used.
Guys, do you have any "evidence" to support this "dramatic increase in power" claim?

Y'see, the issue with the MotoMan break-in is NOT getting the process done faster, it's allegedly improving the power output of the motor by following the procedure.

And the "many professional mechanics..." portion of the quote is about as meaningful as the old "4 out of 5 dentists..." toothpaste claims.

TWN, doing better...'bout 85% now. Still can't lift a damn thing. Pissin' is a bitch. Have to sit down. :)

 
And to add:  If this was the end-all to motor break-in, then every manufacturer would be recommending it in the owner's manual.  For the life of me, I can't ever recall seeing anything close to this printed by any maker...

C'mon skooter, I'm waiting... ;)   :D
You gotta be f***ing kidding me?

So we should **ONLY** follow verbatim what is specifically printed in the owner's manual?

If that's the case, EVERY 06 FJR owner will have to take his FJR to the dealer EVERY time they want to have their handle bars adjusted. So I will be expecting you to jump on anyone that does it theirself with a good ol TWN, "That's fucked-up".

You been smokin too many of those funnee cigarettes over there in the People's Republik of Kali or sumthin?

Besides, this whole argument is moot.

MOTOMAN BREAK-IN DOES NOT VIOLATE YAMAHA'S RECOMMENDED BREAK-IN PROCEDURES.

The big thing is, everybody should do their own research, and then do whatever feels comfortable to them.

In the great scheme of things, it really doesn't matter. I mean, I would definitely NOT recommend constant rpm riding with little engine loading during the break-in period, but the fact is, I have yet to hear of even ONE engine failure on an FJR.

 
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Doing the Motoman break-in IS following the book. 
Eh, you're full of shit, there Skippy! If your statement were true, why would he make this comment in his write-up (thanks, Howie for digging that morsel up ;) )?

The results are always the same... a dramatic increase in power at all RPMs. In addition, many professional mechanics have disassembled engines that have used this method, to find that the condition of the engine is much better than when the owner's manual break-in method has been used.
That, my feeble brain, wannabe engineer guru type, friend, is a direct claim from the author that his method is different than what the manufacturer recommends... So put that in your pipe and smoke it! :bleh:

C'mon, skooter! You're slippin', bro. Just admit it: You're wrong! :p ;)

 
You gotta be f***ing kidding me?
So we should **ONLY** follow verbatim what is specifically printed in the owner's manual?

If that's the case, EVERY 06 FJR owner will have to take his FJR to the dealer EVERY time they want to have their handle bars adjusted.  So I will be expecting you to jump on anyone that does it theirself with a good ol TWN, "That's fucked-up".

You been smokin too many of those funnee cigarettes over there in the People's Republik of Kali or sumthin?

Besides, this whole argument is moot. 

MOTOMAN BREAK-IN DOES NOT VIOLATE YAMAHA'S RECOMMENDED BREAK-IN PROCEDURES.

The big thing is, everybody should do their own research, and then do whatever feels comfortable to them.

In the great scheme of things, it really doesn't matter.  I mean, I would definitely NOT recommend constant rpm riding with little engine loading during the break-in period, but the fact is, I have yet to hear of even ONE engine failure on an FJR.
Who, me? Kid? Nah, never, not me! ;)

And I ain't sayin' that we should follow everything verbatim in the manual. I'll write this slowly as I know you have a comprehension problem...

I................ think............. his................ method.............. is................. a.................... waste................ of....................... time............... and................. offers....................... no....................substantial................... benefits..................... TO ME!

And the handle bar adjustment comment is placed there by the suits, so don't bust my balls with that kinda of retort, cuz your talkin' apples and oranges.

I do concur with your last three sentences, though I will point out that one of our board members did indeed cook his motor when he downed the machine - but that, like you, is a freak occurrence!

Luv's ya, buddy! :fuck:

Timmy :bye:

 
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I looked at Motoman's method and thought that some of it had merit. I didn't bother following his recommendation to bring the bike to certain RPM levels in the various gears, but I did change the fluids after sub 4k RPM riding at 100 miles and 300 miles, then again at the factory recommended 600 miles. The first change had a fairly large amount of metal flakes. The 300 mile had about 25% of the first change, and the third barely had any at all. I'm glad that I changed it so much because that metal bouncing around in there for 600 miles might have been worse on the motor than it was for 100. I could be wrong, but I feel good about the way I treated my FJR in break in and that is what is right for me. Yep, I know I totally blew off Motoman's whole "load up the rings" argument. I did accelrate hard...but only up to 4k...and not "that" hard.

Oh, wait, I wasn't mean to anyone!

fuckers :haha:

 
Oh, wait, I wasn't mean to anyone!
fuckers          :haha:
I keep sayin' we need a Fight Club in here!
I'd like to see Scooter at work in there with some of the forum members, heck I'd even pay a subscription for that kind of entertainment. :p

 
I've as many of us here have been around the block a few times. I've built, bought and broke race engines, car engines and bike engines. I've been involved with motor sports and engineers for more then 25 years.

I've seen/heard many theories about why things work and why they don't. I've also seen empirical data that either supports or disproves these analysis's.

What I do know is Motomans break in procedure isn't new. Race engine builders and street engine builders have been recommending this type of procedure for many years. They have tests and data to back up their procedures. Most (good) race engines are broken in on a dyno, and all the operating parameters are carefully controlled and measured prior to being delivered to a customer.

Engines are engines, race or street. They all have the same principle of operation. All I want to see when somebody says one way is better then another, is some sort of facts, some sort of data, something to back up their statement. Some "think" one way is better then another. That's fine. Tell me why you think this. What is this based on? The fact that Motoman and many other notable builders have a similar procedure of break in is pretty much a statement that it works. They are putting their reputations and butts on the line by recommending how engines are broken in.

Everyone has to do what they are comfortatble with. Modern manufactured engines and modern metalurgy are normally pretty tolerant of abuse. Remember the boys who tried to blow up a MC engine by draining the coolant and running it on the rev limiter? It still ran after all that abuse. So either way I don't think one can go wrong with either the Motoman or the baby it method. My point is, still, if you want to prove something wrong, then supply the data to back it up.

 
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