Broken Pinch Bolt....Help

[rcpd807]

As I was installing my rear tire this morning there was a loud pop. The pop was my pinch bolt breaking as I was tightening it, waiting for my torque wrench to click. While waiting for the click, I got a pop instead. I think my torque wrench might be defective.

It appears that wait remains of the bolt is holding tension.

My problem is how to remove the broken pinch bolt without messing anything else up.

Any suggestions?.....anyone else done this before?

 

[mcatrophy]

I'd be very wary of using the bike with the pinch bolt broken. Even if it appears tight, I can't see it being tight enough with no head.

Not sure how to remove the remains, possibly drill the end and use an easy-out?

Finally, throw away the torque wrench, learn to judge "tight enough" by feel (except on stretch bolts or similar).

 

[Ignacio]

I had this happen on mine when I took it for service in the first 20,000 miles of its life. Wasn't there for the "pop", but it's easy to overtorque that item...most people don't actually use a torque wrench.

In my case I had some threads left so I took a chance and replaced the bolt with a stud and some red loctite. I changed to a nut and it's worked ever since.

Otherwise time-sert or heli-coil is likely in your future. If those are foreign terms to you....try Google.

 

[Fred W]

Wait, more information needed. When you got the pop, did the head end of the bolt suddenly become free to pull out?

If you broke the bolt head off, you are going to need to use and easyout and remove what's left in there to reinstall a new bolt in its place.

But, if the bolt is still whole in there, as you mentioned it is still retaining some tension, the pop could have been the bolt pulling out the threads from the swing arm, which means you'll need to drill and re-thread (via helicoil or timesert) the threaded side.

 

[rcpd807]

Wait, more information needed. When you got the pop, did the head end of the bolt suddenly become free to pull out?
If you broke the bolt head off, you are going to need to use and easyout and remove what's left in there to reinstall a new bolt in its place.

But, if the bolt is still whole in there, as you mentioned it is still retaining some tension, the pop could have been the bolt pulling out the threads from the swing arm, which means you'll need to drill and re-thread (via helicoil or timesert) the threaded side.

The bolt broke off with about 1/4 inch of threads remaining with the head with it. The bolt broke off clean. I am currently looking at left hand drill bits.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Don't use left hand drill bits. Get an EZ out and just pull it out. They're called EZ for a reason.

And as already mentioned, don't use a torque wrench on that bolt. Just tighten it down.

 

[Ignacio]

The bolt broke off with about 1/4 inch of threads remaining with the head with it. The bolt broke off clean. I am currently looking at left hand drill bits.

Ahhh...there it is! You're much luckier than the alternative. EZ Out.

 

[Panman]

Time & patience will be your friend, That is not a very big bolt so ensuring you on center will be key, I have used two drills in these situations with much better results. First use a drill that is the diameter of the clearance hole to spot drill the broken bolt, that will help you get on the center of the threaded hole then use the correct drill for the easy out and hopefully you won't chew up you threads that way.

I like Iggy's fix and have thought of doing mine as a preventative maintenance! It's a good way to keep from ever having that issue.

 

[rcpd807]

Hole drilled....ez out inserted....drill in reverse....broken bolt backed right out.

Thanks for your suggestions and advise. Hopefully my local shop has a replacement in stock.

 

[Fred W]

First off, glad you got her done.

I have used two drills in these situations with much better results. First use a drill that is the diameter of the clearance hole to spot drill the broken bolt, that will help you get on the center of the threaded hole then use the correct drill for the easy out and hopefully you won't chew up you threads that way.

The above is good advise for anyone with a broken bolt to easy out down inside a blind threaded hole. The only thing that I'd add is that, for the first, centering dimple mark, you can use a drill bit a size or two smaller than the threaded hole and wrap it in tape to try and prevent it from chewing up the threads in the hole. The tip of the bit is all you need to carve a centered dimple for the the smaller bit for the EZ-out

 

[escapefjrtist]

Hole drilled....ez out inserted....drill in reverse....broken bolt backed right out.
Thanks for your suggestions and advise. Hopefully my local shop has a replacement in stock.

Glad it's out! Try your local hardware store for a replacement bolt, no need to use the OEM part.

Good luck!

--G

 

[majicmaker]

Ahhhhhh..... A wonderful ending to a Major Pucker Moment!

 

[ahchiu]

If you have a hard time getting bolts PM me we have a special shop that has bolts, "Tacoma Screw". I have gotten replacement fork pinch bolts.

 

[rcpd807]

If you have a hard time getting bolts PM me we have a special shop that has bolts, "Tacoma Screw". I have gotten replacement fork pinch bolts.

I was able to find the part #, but it appears no one has them to ship. Anyone know the specs of the bolt.....diameter, fine, course....etc?

 

[bigjohnsd]

Yamaha fasteners part # are decipherable.

For the 9nxxx series of the part number, the n designates the type of part

0-various

1-bolts, cotter pins

2-screws, nuts

3-oil seals, orings, bearings

4-spark plugs

5-bolts and nuts

7-ISO bolts

8-ISO screw and nuts

eg 91314-08040-00, the 08 is the OD of the hardware in mm, and the 040 number is the length in mm, except for 901 prefix parts where the length cannot be determined from the 3 digits. For nuts, eg 95301-08600-00 the 08 is the ID in mm; for washers eg 90201-25290-00 25 is the ID in mm.

So if you go to one of many Yamaha dealers online parts lookup sites you can decipher what you need from the part number that comes up when you search for and locate the pinch bolt you need, then take that info, with the broken pieces to your local fastener source. Ace Hardware stores generally have a pretty good supply of metric screws and bolts, even some with the smaller than normal shouldered heads on them.

 

[900gc]

I've bought lots of stuff from Probolt-usa .com for my race/track bike. Not sure in this case, but generally you can upgrade the quality/strength of most standard hardware.

 

[ahchiu]

The bolt you need is a SS Socket HD Cap M8 x 1.25 x 45 mm, cost around $3.00 for a set of 4

If you can't find any I can sent a set to you, I would replace all 4.

 

[BkerChuck]

This is a major reason I dislike "clicker" type torque wrenches. Where I work we send all of them out for calibartion every 3 months.

Glad your problem wan't any worse.

 

[RossKean]

The bolt you need is a SS Socket HD Cap M8 x 1.25 x 45 mm, cost around $3.00 for a set of 4If you can't find any I can sent a set to you, I would replace all 4.

I think he needs the rear pinch bolt (1), not the four front ones.