Cheap Man's Tuning Block?

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penguin1300

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What parts are needed to do the Do-It-Yourself Tuning block? Can I get the longer bolts at Home Depot/Lowes or do I need to goto a better hardware store? What is the spec on the two needed bolts? How many washers to get the angle right?

 
What I used was a couple 5/8" plastic spacer and screws bought at the local Ace Hardware store. They've got a TON of hardware stuff in there. Just take one of the old screws and take it with you to match the size and pitch. Just don't forget to add the extra length.

Mike

 
Whooop, there it is! I went to my local True Value and took 2, 5/16 nuts, pu the original countersunk screw on top and found the correct length from their bin. 2 complete assemblies (1 counter sunk screw and 2 nuts) about $1.25, and....away we go!

I think all hardware stores have a good selection of metric screws, nuts and bolts. I like the local Ace or TrueValue because when I have a "weird" problem...like building something from my mind's picture, they can usually help.

 
Whooop, there it is! I went to my local True Value and took 2, 5/16 nuts, pu the original countersunk screw on top and found the correct length from their bin. 2 complete assemblies (1 counter sunk screw and 2 nuts) about $1.25, and....away we go!
By putting 5/8" of spacer between the mounting brackets, where does that put the windscreen in relation to the top of the "dash". Does it barely clear or does this leave a pretty good buffer? (stock windscreen).

 
Whooop, there it is!  I went to my local True Value and took 2, 5/16 nuts, pu the original countersunk screw on top and found the correct length from their bin.  2 complete assemblies (1 counter sunk screw and 2 nuts) about $1.25, and....away we go!
By putting 5/8" of spacer between the mounting brackets, where does that put the windscreen in relation to the top of the "dash". Does it barely clear or does this leave a pretty good buffer? (stock windscreen).
and how does it impact the airflow???

What screen are you using?

 
You'll still have plenty of room with the stock windshield. And you'll notice much less buffeting with the shield raised, but it will still be a little rough.

The rifle tuning block works much better as it actually moves the shield back an inch or so. With the Rifle tuning block on the stock shield it will touch on the sides when lowered to the full down position. However, the air flow is very smooth with the shield all the way down. And raised the buffeting is substantially reduced. It apparently also make your shield look smaller as I had several folks ask if my shield was smaller than stock at the CFO.

Try the homemade method. It's cheap and easy (just like Radman likes his women). :) And if you don't like it, experiment with adding more spacers or removing some. I used several thick washers for my spacers.

Derek

 
Here's how my cards fell...

First off, the needed bolt is a M6x1.00. I went to Lowes and found two new bolts of M6x1.00x25. I then also found some plastic spacers 5/8 x 1/4 x 3/8. I tried to get two spacers stuffed between the brackets (which would have raised the bottom by 3/4" and would have required screws of M6x1.00x30); however, it just wasn't going to happen. I think a 5/8" spacer would have been doable; however, I wasn't eager to go back to Lowes. So, I inserted one 3/8" spacer under each bolt.

From a distance, one would never know the modification occured. But, I can now easily get my hand under the bottom part of the screen. Not altering the bike looks was pretty important to me. And the ease of getting the bugs cleaned around the bracket now was worth the mod in itself (I'm a bit anal about keeping my bike clean).

Went for a test ride and WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! In the full down position, the ride is substantially smoother albeit with more air. But, it's summer and I like getting all the air I can! In the full up position, just a touch of buffeting; however, it's a 100% improvement in my book. I honestly was amazed at how smooth everything became. I used to brace myself when going past an 18wheeler on the interstate -- now it just slices through. SHHHAAWWEEET!

So, I guess you guys can say "I told you so". I should have done this mod last year. Don't get me wrong, I'd still like to get a new screen; however, this $3 mod will more then appease me for some time.

But now begs the question, why doesn't Yamaha just do this from the factory? Surely their engineers know that tilting that screen back just alittle bit more makes a vast improvement in rider comfort. Only thing I can figure is that the modelers demanded the screen match the lines of the nose. But, still, I can't believe the looks on something so slight would over-rule such a big improvement in rider comfort. Silly!

 
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No disrespect to skyway's offering. This solution was cheaper, but skyway will certainly make your life easier.

Here is what I did. I have been very happy with the results.

-BD

 
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I have an 06 with Cee Bailey +4 +2 non flip. I'm 6'tall, 31"inseam. No doubt the CB in the full up position is nice, quiet and offers protection (bugs or cold). Big improvement over stock in full up position. However in full down position I prefer the stock w/s instead of CB. On OEM full down, the airflow hits me in upper chest and full helmet, less turbulence and less dirty air = less noise (even with earplugs). In my experience the CB in full down position airflow hits most of helmet and causes more noisy air than stock for my liking. Raising my head an inch or two from normal riding position eliminates this dirty air. I've tried various settings on CB, all unsatisfactory unless in full up. Perhaps a solution is to install couple of washers like in those pre 06 threads and lower the angle of the CB w/s for the low position. I have not done that yet but plan to. Just my thoughts.

 
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