petey
Well-known member
wfooshee, you beat with the same thought.
Okay, Murf, ShinyPartsUp has answered your question.Mine is really a hard pull and it won't take lubrication through the entire cable.
It's not going to be covered under YES.Bike has 60k miles and I am looking to do major miles this year and don't want problems. Also is this a YES warranty issue? ps also does anyone know how much it will cost to replace and big or small job? Thanks
...to durnk too ddriv.This is really going to piss ya....... It ain't a cable either. Hey Howie, ya got time for a fast run down to Bradenton?
:jester:
seriously, I wouldn't take offense to any of the digs. It's all supposed to be in good fun. I've had a strip torn out of me more than once out here. And I still come back for more.You guys are cold. I made the mistake of assuming it was a cable because it looks like the brake cable on the other lever. Please don't tell me that is not a cable either. So do I gather that the plan would be to replace the "hose" and flush the resovoir(wherever that might be)? For those of you that need to take a shot at my expense you missed your opportunity, now only good faith honest responses needed. Thanks to one all of my fjr brothers and sisters.
There's a switch in the clutch lever to prevent starting in gear. If clutched, should start; if not, won't start. That switch or connections to it are no good.And since we're on this topic.......
Since sometime ago, I realized I can't start my FJR (02) with gears in and clutch lever pulled (sidestand got to be up of course). The motor doesn't crank.
I know and I'm sure it can be started in this config and I used to do that a lot.
I'm thinking the clutch plates ain't fully disengaging cuz you can't start the bike in-gear with levers extended.
Whats the prob?
PS: I know our clutch works on hydraulics, I've bled them once...
Very true. The starter motor puts out enough torque to launch the bike forward if it was in gear, the clutch plates were stuck, and all the safety interlocks weren't working. The problem has to be the clutch interlock or the sidestand switch.There's a switch in the clutch lever to prevent starting in gear. If clutched, should start; if not, won't start. That switch or connections to it are no good.And since we're on this topic.......
Since sometime ago, I realized I can't start my FJR (02) with gears in and clutch lever pulled (sidestand got to be up of course). The motor doesn't crank.
I know and I'm sure it can be started in this config and I used to do that a lot.
I'm thinking the clutch plates ain't fully disengaging cuz you can't start the bike in-gear with levers extended.
Whats the prob?
PS: I know our clutch works on hydraulics, I've bled them once...
Sticking plates will not jam the starter. If they did, you'd still hear the starter relay (under the upper right fairing) clicking when you hit the button. No click, no starter. Clutch switch bad will prevent starting in gear.
Google "putz-o-lube" site: www.sears.com.Yet the question remains,... how/where did you get lube into part of the cable?
Don
1. There isn't a "cable". The FJR clutch is completely pneumatic and prone to condensation in the line.
Your problem is the clutch switch. When the switch gets crudded up it doesn't allow you to start the bike in gear. You can take it apart (carefully) and clean the contacts and then reassemble with some dielectric grease to help increase the time between services.And since we're on this topic.......
Since sometime ago, I realized I can't start my FJR (02) with gears in and clutch lever pulled (sidestand got to be up of course). The motor doesn't crank.
I know and I'm sure it can be started in this config and I used to do that a lot.
I'm thinking the clutch plates ain't fully disengaging cuz you can't start the bike in-gear with levers extended.
Whats the prob?
PS: I know our clutch works on hydraulics, I've bled them once...
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