Clutch Line Removal

[meosborn]

I hate starting new topics but here goes.

I've managed to get the front brake lines installed and that wasn't too hard. My problem's really started when I tried to remove the clutch line. There are two clamps that secure the line. The first one is located just where the line goes through the frame and the second is mounted to the inside of the frame. The first was easy but I have yet to be able to do any more than feel the head of the bolt for the second. I don't have any idea how I'm going to get that thing out. On the other hand it's 10PM and I've got to work tomorrow.

Sorry about the diagram. I need to get this image thing down.

 

[meosborn]

Man, not a single reply. I had to go back to the "other board" to get any responses.

 

[twowheelnut]

Since I'll be tackling mine soon, do me a favor...

Just grab on to the loose end and yank that mofo for all you're worth and let me know what happens, k?

(Sorry, bro. Wish I could help. Really. Just hope I don't have the same problem...)

 

[meosborn]

Just grab on to the loose end and yank that mofo for all you're worth and let me know what happens, k?

TWN, that's pretty much it. The clamp that is on the inside of the frame is a pain to get to and once the clamps are off it still doesn't want to come out. I found that there seems to be a couple of reasons for this:

1. The section of line between the front clamp and the rear clamp is rigid tubing and doesn't like trying to go around bends.

2. The fittings on either end of the previously mentioned rigid tubing make a couple of thick sections that don't like trying to go thorough narrow places.

Finally, after a lot of pulling, I got it thorough. I also zip tied the new line to the end of the old line to get it routed through. Now I'm just getting the lines bled. The initial bleeding is more of a mess than anything but I am letting it sit for a while and bleeding the lines again to be sure to get all the air out. I hope to be able to get it back on the road by Sunday. I got work Saturday morning and a H.S. reunion Saturday night so I won't be getting a lot of work done tomorrow.

Still have the R1 shifter arm to put on since that came with the Spiegler shipment.

 

[teerex51]

doesn't like trying to go around bends.

Having spent a frustrating hour trying to pull that mofo clutch-line out I think meosborn's assessment is right on the money.

Pulling the old line out longitudinally (by its front end or rear end) I'd get a couple inches of travel and then it would invariably snag :angry: .

I was pretty close to nuking it h34r: (actually snipping it into sections and extracting one POS at the time) when I had a brainwave .

I took the steel-wire hook that came with my LeoVince slip-ons (you need it to tension two steel springs ) and hooked the line up midway thru its length (where it runs alongside the LH frame member. Making sure it would not rip out anything with it I yanked it up and out in a couple of minutes.

Basically you need to attack it at a 90° angle from the top (as you look down from where the gas-tank is).

Hope this is of some use. Wish I could have offered this piece of advice earlier but with the time zones and all I just read meosborns mayday call.

Stef

 

[Groo]

Stef,

So you pulled it up and out from the middle.... interesting. I may give that a try once my Rotors show up and I tear the mofo apart to get it all done at once.

 

[meosborn]

teerex, did you end up destroying the line? I would think that grabbing it and yanking it from a 90 degree angle would bend that line right in half.

As far as getting snagged after a coupld of inches, if you were pulling the clutch end like I was, I think what probably was causing most of the problem was the fitting that attaches the flexible hose to the rigid tubing on the lever end (just after it goes through the frame). Once I got that through the bottleneck of stuff it came out relatively easy. Up until that happened I was seriously leaning toward the hack-to-pieces method.

 

[Bounce]

So'd you pull it out from the front of the bike or from the "back" (engine) side?

My plan of attack is to do the rear line first. It's shorter and totally visible while working on it, yet mostly hidden when the ABS plastic pannels are replaced.

From there, any lessons learned will help with the front lines' installation.

By then the clutch line should mostly have the OEM removal quirks as the only unique hurdle to overcome.

 

[teerex51]

teerex, did you end up destroying the line?

Nope. I did bend it some, though.

As soon as I pulled it upward from the middle it quickly unsnagged itself at both ends. All I did then was put my faithful hook away and gently freed the line with my hands and pulled it out. I am sure it would have eventually come out from the front or rear, but I was slowly going ballistic and this solution saved the old clutch line from death by dismemberment

I only had to straighten it out a bit but it came out intact. Not that I plan to use that POS again....

Stef

PS: Bounce, we on the same page here? Are you thinking brake lines, bro?

We're discussing clutch line removal

@ Groo, make sure you use a heat gun around your rotor bolts (Part #90109-064G6-00) when you remove the old rotors. Heat up the rim near every single one deliberately and go around the 6 of them for some 10 mins, then remove them. They're very soft metal and secured with Loctite. The idea is to let the aluminum rim expand.

You attack them when the rims are cold, your Allen key will mangle the heads on half of them. It's not just the $1,36 apiece, you will be up the proverbial creek if you have to throw some out. I bought 4 spares JIC.

 

[meosborn]

I pulled from the "back" end. That was what seemed to be producing the most movement and in the end it did work. Pulling it back is relatively straight when you compare the bends that have to happen to pull it through the opening in the frame at the front. Like I said about the rigid line earlier, it doesn't like to bend (hence the word "rigid").

The rear line was fairly easy but I think that the front was probably the easiest (more room to work). The rear caliper is pretty low to the ground and the the attachment to the rear cylinder is on the inboard side and takes a little contortion. The most difficulty I had with the fronts was the little bit of plastic that gets in the way of the 2 into 1 manifold. Of course, you have to remove the front wheel if you are replacing the pads as well, whereas on the rear you can just remove the caliper for the whole job.

Removal of the clutch line was definitely the most difficult part of this whole job for me and the most difficult part of that was the clamp on the inside of the frame. Good luck to all.

 

[twowheelnut]

TWN, that's pretty much it.

Heck and here I was being my usual wise-ass self and I nailed the solution? Go figure.

But, thanks for all the info. I'll be doing mine shortly and I have a raging temper when this kinda shit happens...

 

[slapnpop]

As for the rear line (on non-abs at least) you can just pull the two allen head bolts that hold the rear foot control assembly. You can then rotate the whole peice to gain easier access to the line. Adjust your rear brake light switch if needed while you're in there. When you're done, 2 bolts back in and the rearset is re-attached.

 

[FatNakedGuy]

TWN, that's pretty much it.

Heck and here I was being my usual wise-ass self and I nailed the solution? Go figure.

But, thanks for all the info. I'll be doing mine shortly and I have a raging temper when this kinda shit happens...

Tim, mind if I hang out with you while you're doing your lines?

 

[meosborn]

As for the rear line (on non-abs at least) you can just pull the two allen head bolts that hold the rear foot control assembly. You can then rotate the whole peice to gain easier access to the line. Adjust your rear brake light switch if needed while you're in there. When you're done, 2 bolts back in and the rearset is re-attached.

The most difficult part of that is just the initial breaking the banjo bolt loose. After that you can (at least it worked on mine) just spin the bolt with your fingers. Trying to break it loose when the whole assembly is loose is more of a PITA than the bit of work there is to get to the bolt.

I keep throwing around the word "difficult". With the exception of the clutch line there isn't much difficulty associated with this job. It just takes some time.

 

[twowheelnut]

You got it, bro! Suffice to say though, my kebabs and humus rank waaaay below Big D's.... :lol: We can walk over to Cavalli's. They make a truly bitchin' Tri-tip sangwhich!

I’m working up the courage to do all my lines soon. Maybe over the 4th. You around then? I'm not sure if imasacorp got his yet (ABS) and Big D took a pass on the lines...

 

[BrunDog]

Spiegler clutch line is EASY-PEASY. Once you've read the above threads, that is! That's why FJRForum kicks serious arse. I've added my experience to make it easier for others.

Here's how simple it is to remove the factory line: Open the reservoir cover, undo both factory banjo bolts and drain the reservoir. Remove the bracket by the stearing head, but that's all. There's no need to remove the T-bar or pry up the clamp inside the frame holding the clutch and brake lines in place. Pull the master cylinder end through the wire hold on the handlebar. Now, just pull the slave side of the old clutch line very firmly but slowly. The line will begin to slip out, and when you see the rubber/hard line interface (master cylinder side) inside the frame, reach in with a pair of diagonal cutters and cut the hard line near the interface. Now pull out the slave side in that direction and the master side back out its direction. You can remove the round rubber grommets off the old line to use on the new one for the steering head bracket. Old line is now done.

New line: Feed in the new line backwards (from the slave side). You can push it right through the clamp bracket inside the frame - it will fit through. Continue feeding it below the brake lines until it reaches the steering head passthrough. Reach in and pull it through. You know the rest!

I can't get over how easy this was. I skipped it during by ABS brake line install because I read it was a PITA, but damn - doing like this should only take about a half an hour!

-BD

 

[Lake Powell]

So does going to the new line truly improve the feel?

And has anyone done this and the change to the 05' slave cylinder on a 06?

Thanks in advance!

 

[BrunDog]

No difference in feel, but we didn't expect any. I did it for a match to the brake lines and the reliability that comes with the stainless lines, rather than those factory embarrassments that are supposed to be replaced every few years. No thanks!

-BD

 

[meosborn]

I'm not sensitive enough to have felt any real difference with the new lines. The problem with the stockers is that eventually they will wear out and then there would be a noticeable difference but I was not about to wait until that point. The stainless steel lines won't wear out like the stockers.

Not to mention they look really cool!!