Engine "Break-in" questions

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Redfish Hunter" data-cid="1301535" data-time="1460162223"><p>

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Tracer42" data-cid="1301519"><p>Just got it home. Trailer the whole way. Once home got it off the trailer and after it reached operating temp. I took it for about 20 mile ride IAW the owner's manual. Would have been longer but prior engagement so she's in the garage till tomorrow. It's gonna be a long first 1000 miles but I'll be smiling. Way different from my Goldwing but I love both bikes. Thank you ALL for your input. The FJR is a awesome machine.</p></blockquote>

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You <em class='bbc'>say </em>that it happened. I want to believe you. But without pics...<img src='https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/no.gif' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_emoticon' /><br />

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I really like pics of 2012 FJRs. Arguably the best of the Gen2 FJRs.</p></blockquote>

I have pictures but I don't have brains enough to know how to post them. I'm back home now so I'm gonna go riding and try those heated grips.

 
As usual I've learned so much throughout this thread. What a wealth of knowledge and the number of opinions on everything is mind boggling. Guess there is really is more than one way to skin a cat.

Let me tell you of my break in story. I recently bought a "new" '14. It was already broke in properly (probably rode the hell out of it the first 16,000 miles) in addition he had already tipped it over once. The beauty of it all was that I didn't have to do anything but ride it. I still don't know all the differences between my 2011 and this one, but can absolutely state that this one is best. Had it for 1 month and have only put 2,000 miles on it so I think the break-in period is over, right?

My question is do I have to do anything more to keep it running for another 60 or 70,000 miles?

 
"My question is do I have to do anything more to keep it running for another 60 or 70,000 miles?"

Yes. Always add 2 full cups of butter flavored Crisco when you change your oil. If anyone asks you why, you just tell them that you read it on the internet, you know it is controversial but the guy that posted it had a really cool internet alias so it has to be true. You might add that the guy said he had done it to thousands of engines and that all of his Crisco enhanced engines were faster, made more power, lasted longer and it had been proven by experienced mechanics.

"My Butter Flavor Crisco enhanced FJR is so fast that I once drove it past a cornfield and it caused 86 acres of sweet corn to pop. The butter flavor coming out of the exhaust flavored the corn and it was so delicious that the farmer sold it for a huge profit. The cops could not catch me because I Butter Criscoed the road behind my FJR and sent them spinning out of control. They would have pressed charges anyway but the butter got on their donuts and they were so grateful that they let me go. As a further reward I got the contract for changing the oil in all the police Harleys and yes, you guessed it, I used Butter Flavor Crisco in them too. Now those Harleys will outrun Hayabusas." Redfish Hunter

Okay, seriously, 60 or 70K miles is Nothing for an FJR. No matter how it gets broken in.

 
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Again...... how does the Motoman break in not follow Yamaha's recommended procedure?

I thought that when I posted what "Motoman" recommends for a break in procedure that it would be obvious which parts are in conflict with what Yamaha requires for the break in. I will highlight below the specific requirements (from the owners manual) that are in direct conflict with Motoman's break-in procedure below:

Engine Break-in
There is never a more important period in the life of your engine than the period between 0 and 1600 km (1000 mi). For this reason, you should read the following material carefully.

Since the engine is brand new, do not put an excessive load on it for the first 1600 km (1000 mi). The various parts in the engine wear and polish themselves to the correct operating clearances. During this period, prolonged full-throttle operation, or any condition that might result in engine overheating must be avoided.

0 - 1000 km (600 ml)

Avoid prolonged operation above 5000 r/min

1000 - 1600 km (600 -1000 ml)

Avoid prolonged operation above 6000 r/min

Taken in their entirety, the Yamaha break-in procedure says to "take it easy" on the engine during its first 1000 miles, and Motoman recommends just the opposite. Motoman's break in procedure recommends ignoring the manufacturers break-in procedure and to intentionally run the engine under a heavy load and high rpm: running the engine WFO, up to red-line, three times back to back, with zero miles on the engine. What Motoman says to do to break-in and engine is in direct opposition with what the manufacturer says to do with a new engine. It couldn't be any clearer that this is the case.

I am not saying that this is some sort of technical heresy. As many others have said, it may not make any difference to your bike's longevity which procedure you follow. Motoman may even be right, maybe it does break in the rings better on certain engines (though I have my doubts about this). But given that we are comparing the recommendation of some guy that puts advice up on an internet web site against the advice of the company that designed and manufactured the engine in question, I would think the manufacturer's voice should carry a bit more weight.

Here's a good question to ask yourself: If Motoman's break in was really as good as he claims it is... Why wouldn't all of the manufacturers adopt it? It is free. He claims it results in a stronger, longer running engine with fewer problems. This seems like it would be a huge boon to the companies that have to cover the warranty claims. Does Motoman pay for any warranty claims?

 
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I did a modified 'Motoman' break-in:

-New motorcycle (made sure engine was well into normal operating temperature; not just water, but oil up to temp).

-Repeatedly aggressive, not full throttle accelerations in 2nd, third gears and fourth (with emphasis on deceleration) to get ring seating both up and down the rev range.

-Doing this five or six times (don't remember); allowed for normal cooldown (engine oil at operating temperature and maintained stasis for 15/20 minutes.

-Brought my baby home and changed the oil and filter.

Not saying this is what you HAVE to do, but it worked for me with my FJR, and two new cars; engines have always kept/remained strong (with minimal to no oil burning). I believe Motoman's theory's to be sound (opinions may vary).

 
...I believe Motoman's theory's to be sound (opinions may vary)....
Why yes, they do vary. Opinions are interesting, have y'all read some of them in the news?
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...but it worked for me with my FJR...
And that right there is the crux of the matter. There is no measurable, quantifiable evidence provided by either side on this matter. There is an assumption from (at least some of us) that a vehicle manufacturer have some knowledge and experience that leads them to formulate the (ridiculous) break-in routine. All of them. I guess that lack of flaming, smoking, oil dripping failure does imply some level of success by both processes.

 
Motoman's break-in reminds me of the days when I worked for CAT rebuilding diesels then dynamic them to break them in. Apple's and oranges.

 
I bought two used bikes, cannot verify personally how they were broken in. Both seem fine.

That being said, in 2003 I followed the MFRs recommendations, they seem logical to me.

I do not follow the MFRs recommended shift pattern. Those were written by Rich/exskibums corporate lawyer buddies and are definitely CYA verbiage BS.

:D

 
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I think it is obvious that Yamaha give us erroneous information for the break in procedure. It is in their best interest if the FJR motor wears out prematurely. Yamaha knows that if the FJR engine only lasts around 200,000 miles they will sell a lot more bikes. If we actually did the proper break in procedure our motors would never wear out and none of us would ever have to buy a new motorcycle. Yamaha would soon be out of business.

Since this is on the internet and YOU just read it... It has to be true.

 
Since this is a NEPRT thread anyway, I'll throw this in just for giggles/deep thought/etc.; my 1995 Dodge Caravan, sited in the engine break-in, to do a couple full throttle accelerations and deceleration's during the break-in period (I believe they too believed in a heavy handed 'plot' to seat them rings).

 
Since this is a NEPRT thread anyway, I'll throw this in just for giggles/deep thought/etc.; my 1995 Dodge Caravan, sited in the engine break-in, to do a couple full throttle accelerations and deceleration's during the break-in period (I believe they too believed in a heavy handed 'plot' to seat them rings).
I wonder what 2016 manual would suggest.....?

 
Since this is a NEPRT thread anyway, I'll throw this in just for giggles/deep thought/etc.; my 1995 Dodge Caravan, sited in the engine break-in, to do a couple full throttle accelerations and deceleration's during the break-in period (I believe they too believed in a heavy handed 'plot' to seat them rings).
I wonder what 2016 manual would suggest.....?
Adding 2 cups of Butter Flavor Crisco during the 2nd oil change.
smile.png


 
Since this is a NEPRT thread anyway, I'll throw this in just for giggles/deep thought/etc.; my 1995 Dodge Caravan, sited in the engine break-in, to do a couple full throttle accelerations and deceleration's during the break-in period (I believe they too believed in a heavy handed 'plot' to seat them rings).
I wonder what 2016 manual would suggest.....?
Adding 2 cups of Butter Flavor Crisco during the 2nd oil change.
smile.png
I thought it was EXTRA virgin olive oil. (now THERE'S a concept)

 
How in the hell can anything be "extra virgin"? Then again, I am no olive oil expert. FJR may last 100,000 miles on this. LOL

I have rebuilt many engines both gasoline and diesel. Most diesels in equipment get run at governed speed anyway. Just don't lug them. I always put the first miles/hours on any engine. I don't lug them and I sure don't run the hell out of them. But they do get run...... never to red-line. I also don't have engines coming back. Race engines are another story. But they are not built for 200,000 miles and forget about a warranty unless it is an obvious assembly error. None yet, knock on wood.

 
Well, when I bought my new 1979 Yamaha XS1100, there was a report in one of the moto mags about a visit by the staff to the Yamaha factory. They witnessed brand new XS1100s coming off the assembly line and the first test was to put it on a dyno and run WFO for 30 seconds. If the engine didn't produce power within an acceptable range it went back to a repair station to find what was wrong.

This was way before plated cylinders and liquid cooled engines. I think we are fine with following the current manual, I don't worry about it much.

Dan

 
there was a report in one of the moto mags about a visit by the staff to the Yamaha factory. They witnessed brand new XS1100s coming off the assembly line and the first test was to put it on a dyno and run WFO for 30 seconds. If the engine didn't produce power within an acceptable range it went back to a repair station to find what was wrong.
I'm sure that you did see that report in that magazine. It probably did say what you remember. They may have even actually seen that happen, and it may have actually been a zero mile motorcycle. I seriously doubt that they would (or could) do that to a new bike and then still sell it as new.

Would also be interested in a link to or photo of an owners manual that has a recommendation to accelerate at full throttle during the initial break-in period. I have never seen such a thing and am always anxious to learn something new.

 
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