Engine noise in audio system

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fjr mississippi

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I have installed a Starcom Advance with a Zumo 660 and a Clarion CMS1 with all power connection under the seat to a distribution block. I have tried two different chassis grounds and currently have distribution block grounded directly to battery but still cant get rid of motor hum in helmet speakers. Thanks for any help you guys may have.

 
Bike Effects is a vendor who participates on this forum and offers a discount to forum members. He is also a Starcom dealer. Give him a call and he'll fix you up with the right cables. Or, if you don't mind doing a little soldering, you could buy a ground isolation transformer from Radio Shack and build a cable.
 
I have not found a solution for this, yet.

As I do not have a garage and have to perform any work in just a couple hours before night fall my trouble shooting time is limited. At most I have a two hour window every couple weeks during the summer and no time during the winter. Therefore, I have installed/removed my unit a few times. I will be installing it again in the coming weeks.

I have tried to install the unit under the rear seat.

*My first install, I ran the wires down the right side of the bike. Removed for engine noise.

*My second install, I added the Starcom power filter. Removed for engine noise.

*My third install, I ran the wires down the left side of the bike. Removed for engine noise.

*My fourth install, with some troubleshooting I found my problem to be in the cord for the radar detector. This was weird as cord form the zumo was noise free. Therefore, I am convinced the location of the wires is good. With some troubleshooting, I can isolate the noise to the radar detector regardless of the cord used. However, I have NO IDEA why. I can use the same cords and install the Starcom in the tank bag and all is perfect. But, if I run the wire to the unit installed under either. Removed for engine noise with radar detector.

*My fifth install, I made no attempt to correct the radar detector issue as I was going to use the communication feature for 2-up. Removed due to static and other issues when bike traveled above 20MPH. Other have stated this is a setting with the mics to sensitive.

During the 2 years I have had the unit I unsuccessful tried communication feature once, unsuccessful tried to install five times, and have good luck using the unit for connection to the Zumo and Escort radar detector as long as the unit is in the talk bag. However, I due to the vox issues I could not get the Zumo and phone to work correctly.

I am sure the Starcom Digital will work as others here on the forum as gotten it to work. However, it is clear the install is no easy task for me. I have reached out for help installing the unit with no luck. The local BMW wants $650 to install the unit, but I am not ready to pay that much.

Good luck solving the issue. My suggestion is to try to figure where the noise is coming from. I assumed the noise was from the power and later found it was coming from the radar detector cord.

 
Ground loop noise is what you have. If so, you probably hear a little when the engine is off, a ton of whine when it is on.

All ground points of powered devices should be tied to one point (battery preferred much over chassis). Also, a GLI (Ground Loop Isolator, noted above) cures all ills.

-BD

 
A few years ago someone documented a difference in ground (impedance?) between the front (main frame) and back (subframe). That means a chassis ground to the front would have a "better" ground than one to the back. That, in addition to ground loop interference, makes running all your grounds back to battery negative (-) critical on the FJR. If you do a ground bar (like a power bar but back to negative), that will work, but you need a good solid primary run between the battery - and the ground block and the shorter the better (path of least resistance).

So

1. Avoid chassis grounds completely

2. If you break rule 1, then make sure that any chassis ground hits the forward frame area where grounding is more solid

3. Run all grounds back to the exact same location to avoid GLI (battery negative is best)

 
To be less technical and more 'Plug-n-play'...

I have the AutoComm and experienced this type of thing when attempting to charge my iPod from the glovebox power outlet. No problem whatsoever when not charging. AutoComm has noise isolation cables to resolve this issue. Contact your StarComm dealer as I'm sure they do as well!

 
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I beleive the reply by Bounce above is right on target. That is what worked for me. I have my Zumo, Starcom1, and other accessories, connected to my Centech fuse panel, both pos and neg. The Centech is connected directly to the battery, both pos and neg. On the pos side, between the Centech and the battery, I installed a relay and a good quality noise filter. I found the filter at an online CB shop. The stuff at Best Buy, Radio Shack, etc did not do a thing for me. The filter was only used to remove the last little bit of noise, most was solved by using a common ground for everything. I don't use any ground loop isolating cables.

YMMV.

Bob

 
I had the same problem with my autocom. Everytime I rode, I heard the engine rev in my ears.

I rerouted the cable so that it did not touch the metal frame of the bike.

Not sure if that was the solution, but it worked for me. Quiet as can be now......nice.

Good luck.

 
I had the same problem, but w/ er-6i's. Turns out the impedance of the earplugs was too low,16ohms, instead of the 32ohms required. Swithed to er-6's and VOILA , no more whine. Too bad I can't use the same approach to my wife.

 
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